Stator

[godsend1]

So the bike died on me this morning after riding home from work. The battery is a new(1month) old Odyssey. I charged it while I was sleeping, fired it up and am getting no charge voltage at the battery when running, high and low RPM.

I checked resistance at the stator plug, at least I think it is, I'll post some pics tomorrow, and the reading starts at 0.5, then slowly drops to 0.

If the stator is bad, are there any recommendations? I see Yamaha's part from Ron Ayers is $350. I see Dennis Kirk has a Ricks Motorsports brand for $132.

What have you guys put in?

 

[gamorg02]

i'd call up mr morley.

 

[sdt354]

I'd look at the RR, it's grounding is probably corroded. an extra ground wire from the RR housing to a ground on the frame cured my issue, along with cleaning the corrosion. Do a crimp connector fix too. Stator connector and RR connection cleaning. I spray connections with CRC 656. After that I'd do an a/c check at the stator plug with the bike running at around 1800 rpnm or so. Should be at least 40 volts or more a/c between all combinations of the three stator wires. Might be fixable for cheap, sanpaper and solder. Good luck.
Steve-o

 

[godsend1]

Ok, it's not the stator, I got it nice and hot and it settles at 0.5ohms for each leg.

Guess I'm on to the RR, that's the one behind the left side passenger peg right?

 

[maleko89]

Correct. Start at the begginng of the charging system fault-finding diagram. It's very accurate and eliminates the guessing game.

 

[godsend1]

That's in the Clymer, right Mark?

 

[maleko89]

It's here: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=994

 

[Bill Seward]

Check your inbox...

 

[godsend1]

Ok, I followed the chart and got to the step where I check the red wire out of the RR to the battery, I get a reading of -0.35, I checked the wiring through the fuse block, kill switch and they are all clean, I used contact cleaner on all of them as well.

Is the reading of -0.35 less than 0.2?

 

[one2dmax]

Simple math would say it's less by .055 (.2 - (-.35) = .55)

Sean

 

[godsend1]

Ya, that's what I thought, just checking. Thanks Sean.

 

[godsend1]

When I get to step B, I find the switched 12V wire, (any will do right?) It says leave the bike running, then turn on lights. When the bike is on the lights are on. Anyway, the voltage when engine is on, lights on is .75, when I turn the highbeams on it jumps to .85

I have already checked resistance between the stator wires, all are at 0.5 ohms. When I check from one of the stator wires to case, I get 18ohms, the troubleshooting guide indicates that the stator is bad.

My question is, do I use a differential reading for the headlight on/off test where I can only switch between high/low?

 

[godsend1]

Great Googly MooglY! Are the stator screws loctited in at the factory? Even with an impact driver I needed vice grips to get them the rest of the way out.

Looks like I need some screws!

 

[godsend1]

Right, I have a stator and new model R/R thanks to Sean, I put the stator in no change, I put the new R/R in and I'm getting 14V at idle, and about 19V at 5K RPM, so much voltage that I fried my headlight.

Any ideas as to why the new R/R is allowing such a high voltage through?

 

[naughtyG]

Sounds like that R/R is no good.

 

[one2dmax]

That's what I am thinking. I will have more in this week and can ship another to be sure. Then you can send that one back and I can get it replaced.

Sean

 

[godsend1]

Sounds good Sean, thanks again for the help.

 

[sidwin]

Great Googly MooglY! Are the stator screws loctited in at the factory? Even with an impact driver I needed vice grips to get them the rest of the way out.

Looks like I need some screws!

use a pin torch next time. a lot of yamaha parts have loctite on the.....