Stock airbox

[Eugene Brad]

I hope this is a fitting place for this thread I didnt see a airbox or airfilter area. So... I am doing a deep clean on my 85 while I diagnose and replace "smaller issues" that I find. When pulling my stock airbox the whole thing just lifted off the card tops. Which was rather convenient actually. But I'm wondering when I place the airbox back on what is the strategy to be able to tighten the 4 clamps that hold the rubber intake things that bring air into the airbox. It appears the p.o. just had it kinda pressure fit for it to slide rite back on. Space seems very limited to get in there to tighten clamps.
Then side note question. It seems to me that WD40 cleans black plastic parts and metal parts that live under seat and faux tank very good. Is there any reason I should not be using WD40 for that?
Thanks all in advance.

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[davesax36]

If the clamps are on the right way you can just tighten them with a jis #2 driver or #2 phillips.

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[Eugene Brad]

If the clamps are on the right way you can just tighten them with a jis #2 driver or #2 phillips.

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I seem to recall **** in the way. I havnt made the attemp yet still cleaning things up. I'm sure I'll get it. Thought maybe there was a "trick"
So is it best to fit the entire box then get in there from the sides above carbs and tighten the clamps?


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[dannymax]

That is correct, kind of smack it down with your palm until all 4 air box stacks are fully seated on the carb throats and use a long screwdriver to reach the phillips screws.

If you want to make your life easier, take one of the screws to the hardware store (for size) and get (4) socket cap allen bolts.....sooo much easier to work with.

 

[Eugene Brad]

That is correct, kind of smack it down with your palm until all 4 air box stacks are fully seated on the carb throats and use a long screwdriver to reach the phillips screws.

If you want to make your life easier, take one of the screws to the hardware store (for size) and get (4) socket cap allen bolts.....sooo much easier to work with.

Good to know. How bout cleaning with wd40? Any negatives known there?

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[Eugene Brad]

That is correct, kind of smack it down with your palm until all 4 air box stacks are fully seated on the carb throats and use a long screwdriver to reach the phillips screws.

If you want to make your life easier, take one of the screws to the hardware store (for size) and get (4) socket cap allen bolts.....sooo much easier to work with.

I'm used to much more room when wrenching on dirt machines. Had two banshees and a TRX 450. Things were not as packed in.


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[dannymax]

WD40 is a good cleaner/lube, softens rubber parts like carb boots making them easier to remove/install.

 

[davesax36]

If you really want them to be soft, cover them in oil of wintergreen. They'll also smell nice.

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[Fire-medic]

From another similar post:
I'm 220 lb+ and w/the airbox on-top of the carbs, you can seat the carbs and the airbox by (literally) sitting on the airbox. Even if you are running Stage 7 pods, then just remove the airbox and install your pods.

I have the bike on its centerstand. I place the carbs and airbox in alignment. Then I carefully climb aboard, and end up with my legs dangling alongside the front engine cylinders. My butt is on-top of the airbox. As I slowly lower my weight onto the airbox, you can feel/hear the pieces 'pop' into position.

Dismount and ensure that the carbs are all inserted into the VBoost an equal amount. Place the clamps into a rotated position that you can easily reach all of them with your screwdriver. Tighten the lower clamp boots first, then tighten the airbox clamps, after assuring that the airbox is fully-lowered onto the top of the carb airhorns (the top venturi 'mouth' of the carbs).

But, whatever works for you. My mechanic friend uses water-soluble jelly like KY lubricant for all-kinds of things, wiring, seating tires onto wheels, carb installation, anything where you need 'em to slide a bit. He will even use it to hold gaskets in position for reassembly.

 

[Fire-medic]

An additional word of caution: I would never use a hammer of any sort on a carb body! You might get away with it, but eventually you will experience that sickening 'give-way' that accompanies the cracking of a carb body. The metal alloy has very low strength as you will find-out if you persist in hammering for any reason onto a carb body. Same thing for putting one in a vise.

 

[Eugene Brad]

Good to know. I'm generally pretty cautious when working on anything.
Thanks

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[Jan Bee]

If you really want them to be soft, cover them in oil of wintergreen. They'll also smell nice.

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Keep wintergreen away from children.

 

[Eugene Brad]

So... while doing my stator voltage test I had my airbox slipped on but not tightened at the clamps and Also the screws that hold the top of the airbox were not in. I revved the bike up to 5k to get a voltage reading. After I shut it down I pulled the airbox back off and noticed a fair amount of smoke at the back right carb. Anything I should be worrying about, or could it be cecause I didnt have my airbox tightened down? Dont know when the last time the carbs were synched or cleaned. Maybe its time for that?

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[Eugene Brad]

So... while doing my stator voltage test I had my airbox slipped on but not tightened at the clamps and Also the screws that hold the top of the airbox were not in. I revved the bike up to 5k to get a voltage reading. After I shut it down I pulled the airbox back off and noticed a fair amount of smoke at the back right carb. Anything I should be worrying about, or could it be cecause I didnt have my airbox tightened down? Dont know when the last time the carbs were synched or cleaned. Maybe its time for that?

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Any thoughts guys?

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[klrkinkster]

I experienced the same issues recently. With a clean rag I wiped clean the surface of the carbs where the air box attaches. I then wiped clean the inside of the rubber boots that mount to the carbs. I removed the screws and separated the top/bottom of the airbox. I loosened all 4 of the carb clamps and removed the faux air intake covers. After removing the air filter I had a helper press down and hold firmly with his palm in the center of the bottom of airbox. I walked around the bike and inspected that all four boots were on their respective carbs and flush. With a long screwdriver I tightened the four clamps.

 

[COP RUNNER]

So... while doing my stator voltage test I had my airbox slipped on but not tightened at the clamps and Also the screws that hold the top of the airbox were not in. I revved the bike up to 5k to get a voltage reading. After I shut it down I pulled the airbox back off and noticed a fair amount of smoke at the back right carb. Anything I should be worrying about, or could it be cecause I didnt have my airbox tightened down? Dont know when the last time the carbs were synched or cleaned. Maybe its time for that?

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No worry at all ! When the engine stopped spinning , that cylinders intake valves were open , allowing that cylinders gasses to rise up out of that carb !

 

[COP RUNNER]

Hope that helped !

 

[Eugene Brad]

Hope that helped !

Good to know. Thank you

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[MaxMidnight]

Agree with Mr C Runner regarding the smoke.

Re the air box:
Before fitting position the clips so that the head of the fasteners are facing outwards and both positioned toward the centre of each pair of carbs.
As previously mentioned replacing with cap head screws is a good idea.
Tighten then sufficiently to stop them falling off the rubbers.

Too tight will make getting the rubbers over the carb tops more difficult.
Apply a light smear of silicon or rubber grease to the inside of the boots before fitting.

Locate the boots over (say) the LH pair of carbs and press down on that side of the box.
You will feel the rubbers 'jump' over the raised portion at the top of the carb.
Now press down on the RH side and you will feel that side locate.

I also replace the thin breather hose with a thick walled type. This allows the hose to be positioned over the stub on the air-box and the hose doesn't kink when you push down.

 

[Jan Bee]

If have the correct clamps they will have a spacer around the screw inside the clamp preventing it from over tightening.