Stock Muffler removal / Install

[D-Max2012]

Does anyone know of a video on removal / replacement of the stock muffler system, or is it one of those things that's so basic, no video is needed??

There are plenty of videos out there on replaced mufflers, and its new sound..

 

[Bill Seward]

Just be sure to remove that little bolt up underneath the muffler. Even if you get that bolt, and all the clamps off it still was a pain in the ass in my case.

 

[Fire-medic]

Someplace to start for replacement: http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=23592&highlight=exhaust+replacement


For removal, follow the factory manual.

1. Remove front header pipe flange bolts
2. Loosen the front exhaust pipe bolts at the resonator/collector
3. Remove the front headers
4. Remove the muffler chamber bolt
5. Loosen the rear muffler bolts
6. Remove the rear muffler bracket bolts, each side
7. Remove mufflers
8. Remove the screws and rear exhaust protector covers
9. Remove rear exhaust pipes clamps, then pipes

From page 3.6 of the VMX12N Service Manual by Yamaha

 

[marsmax85]

I like to squirt some pb blaster in the joints before I start and let sit for a bit ..

 

[EAGLEPI]

Does anyone know of a video on removal / replacement of the stock muffler system, or is it one of those things that's so basic, no video is needed??

There are plenty of videos out there on replaced mufflers, and its new sound..

I've searched for about 30 minutes for a video of a removal of stock exhaust or replacement with aftermarket exhaust hoping they would show removal and install.

which ever exhaust you install if you are putting a new exhaust on, be careful not to tighten the flange too tight I did it 2 times on the same install :bang head: had to order new ones

Id installing new exhaust what kind or brand are you going with?

 

[D-Max2012]

It's a stock replacement,, Plus, I love the stock look.. The previous owner, beat up the original set that was on there, and I've just been living with it. One of the greats on this forum "Bill Kratzenberg", gave me a set in almost new condition.. Thanks again Bill.. I've been putting off the installation, but now, since reduction in staff at the job,, I'll take the time to install them.

 

[Bill Seward]

You're really gonna appreciate how damn heavy the stock muffler is when you try to pick it up to reinstall it. The muffler on my 85 was rusted to the point that all was left was the chrome... It still weighed a ton compared to the Delkevic slip ons that replaced it.

 

[davesax36]

Use a jack to hold the pipes up when you try to fight them back on. And watch out for getting the gaskets all janky. They can tear/peel/crush pretty easily if you get things not quite lined up.

 

[D-Max2012]

I Only got partially there today.. The resonator and connecting pipes were so rusted that i had to hack the rear header pipes to pieces to get them out. I could see daylight thru them there were so rusted out. After hacking the hell out of it, I got the cans off. So many bolts snapped of on the original rear headers. Thank goodness I'm replacing those anyway. I cant seem to get those damn aluminum braces on the front headers to move.. I got the allen nuts off of them with a little heat. Looks like road grime and rust locked them in place. I'm going to try some penetrating oil in the morning, and let it sit. I don't know if all the earlier models has two way threaded bolts, holding the front headers pipes to the cylinders,, or was that something that crazy previous owner did.. The rear headers broke ALL those bolts holding the heat shields in place.. I had to order a replacement set from eBay tonight. The rear header adapters snapped their bolts also, but at least it left a good amount to grab onto. Now I have them in my ultrasonic cleaner to see if I can clean them up a bit and get those broken bolts out. I plan to go pick up some stainless steel replacements tomorrow. Yes, the stock mufflers has some weight to them, but I was always a sucker for the stock look of the max.

 

[dannymax]

I Only got partially there today.. The resonator and connecting pipes were so rusted that i had to hack the rear header pipes to pieces to get them out. I could see daylight thru them there were so rusted out. After hacking the hell out of it, I got the cans off. So many bolts snapped of on the original rear headers. Thank goodness I'm replacing those anyway. I cant seem to get those damn aluminum braces on the front headers to move.. I got the allen nuts off of them with a little heat. Looks like road grime and rust locked them in place. I'm going to try some penetrating oil in the morning, and let it sit. I don't know if all the earlier models has two way threaded bolts, holding the front headers pipes to the cylinders,, or was that something that crazy previous owner did.. The rear headers broke ALL those bolts holding the heat shields in place.. I had to order a replacement set from eBay tonight. The rear header adapters snapped their bolts also, but at least it left a good amount to grab onto. Now I have them in my ultrasonic cleaner to see if I can clean them up a bit and get those broken bolts out. I plan to go pick up some stainless steel replacements tomorrow. Yes, the stock mufflers has some weight to them, but I was always a sucker for the stock look of the max.
View attachment 56091

Yes, that is the attachment set-up for all Gen I front headers.

 

[Fire-medic]

Beware that stainless steel can be 'soft,' and may result in corrosion between dissimilar alloy metals. I'd try for some-sort of higher-grade than stock bolts/nuts and use a bit of anti-seize on them.

 

[D-Max2012]

Thanks DannyMax,, looking thru the online images, I see that its the norm..

Medic, I just ordered replacement originals. Also had to order two replacement header adapters since the bolts are snapped off and rusted in place.
There's no way I'm getting them out, without an act of GOD.. I guess if I ground them flat, drilled, tapped, and use bigger bolts, it could work, but I found a pair on eBay for $20 bucks that looks better than my rusted ones. So I just ordered the original replacement bolts for it.


I had to order some header heat shields because I had to grind the head off, when the Allen head rounded out on 2 bolts.. To get it off and thus allowing me to get the the header clamp itself. I had to drill, grind and pry the old shield off, which left it messed up.

I had to cut the larger rear heat shield away from the right rear header.
Now I have the get the cut-off bolt out of the hole. Once I clean it up and free up that hole, it should be OK for re-use.

Boy if I had the money, I would buy a New Max and forget about all this freaking work.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks DannyMax,, looking thru the online images, I see that its the norm..

Medic, I just ordered replacement originals. Also had to order two replacement header adapters since the bolts are snapped off and rusted in place.
There's no way I'm getting them out, without an act of GOD.. I guess if I ground them flat, drilled, tapped, and use bigger bolts, it could work, but I found a pair on eBay for $20 bucks that looks better than my rusted ones. So I just ordered the original replacement bolts for it. View attachment 56094


I had to order some header heat shields because I had to grind the head off, when the Allen head rounded out on 2 bolts.. To get it off and thus allowing me to get the the header clamp itself. I had to drill, grind and pry the old shield off, which left it messed up.

I had to cut the larger rear heat shield away from the right rear header.
Now I have the get the cut-off bolt out of the hole. Once I clean it up and free up that hole, it should be OK for re-use. View attachment 56095

Boy if I had the money, I would buy a New Max and forget about all this freaking work.

Why not pick up a used aftermarket exhaust? No need for all the BS hardware. Much easier install.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[EAGLEPI]

+111

I replaced my stock exhaust on my 07 with a set of 4 into 2 Marks.. Not only easier to install but sounds so much better. The cons are, you most likely will have to do some upgrades on your carbs ( will you do that someday??) now would be the least expensive way to go.

Not sure if Marks still makes his exhaust or not but if you want to see and hear the difference in the stock verus marks I have some videos. If you already bought a new set or used stock exhaust I guess that is a issue depending on how much you paid.

The one thing I learnt with my Gen 1's was don't do things one at a time because at some later time you will want to do all the upgrades and it get costly when you do them one at a time and takes more work. In the end it is your Vmax and only you know what is best for you.

 

[D-Max2012]

I guess I'm just a sucker for the stock look of the V-Max.. PLUS,, I already have a NICE set of stock cans and header pipes to replace the cruddy ones..

Today I had to Dremel some of the aluminum off the headers that surround the bolt posts. Then use a chisel, to get them free. One post looks a little bent but I don't want to take the chance of snapping it off in the engine. I'll see how the front remaining 3 bolts post move, if at all.

I removed one when I started this, and it came out with no issues at all. If the other 3 comes out fine, I may order some replacements. But, if they're too expensive, I'll see about cleaning these. (Sucks not having an income right now).

 

[EAGLEPI]

I guess I'm just a sucker for the stock look of the V-Max.. PLUS,, I already have a NICE set of stock cans and header pipes to replace the cruddy ones..

Today I had to Dremel some of the aluminum off the headers that surround the bold posts. Then use a chisel, to get them free. One post looks a little bent but I don't want to take the chance of snapping it off in the engine. I'll see how the front remaining 3 bolts post move, if at all.

I removed one when I started this, and it came out with no issues at all. If the other 3 comes out fine, I may order some replacements. But, if they're too expensive, I'll see about cleaning these. (Sucks not having an income right now).

Most definitely, V-Max plus no income = BAD
hope things change for ya soon.

 

[D-Max2012]

Thanks Eaglepi. Hope thing change for the better, that is..

 

[D-Max2012]

Update on Stock Muffler replacement:
I now have the replacement rear header adapters, Screws, heat shields,.. I had to get a replacement large shield that covers both rear cylinders because that rusted bolt would not budge. I could have drilled it out, cut off any remaining bolt material, and de-rustify the whole thing,, but a found an almost new one on eBay for $20 bucks. Figured it was cheaper to spend the $20, than it would be to buy another Dremel tool after killing my corded one. (not looking to do that)

SO.. Whats the best way of removing those old Header Gasket Rings?
Spent about an hour on 1 of them, just to see if I could get it to move at all.
Was using a hook and pick set but still no good..


Here's 4 shots of the 2 fronts..

 

[KDIMD]

I will be replacing my headers soon. What are the sizes of the exhaust header flange bolt as I cant tell which one it is on the parts microfiche.

 

[D-Max2012]

I had to search the Cylinder head fiche area to see them.
Part 3 and 4 BOLT, STUD 95911-08625-00

Googling this part# http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-95911-08625-00.html
Says that the part is obsolete..
Going by Yamaha's Bolt Size hidden codex, :biglaugh:

How to find Yamaha bolt sizes...
Every now and then someone asks what size a particular bolt is.

"How to get sizes of bolts from the part numbers...
The Yamaha microfiche shows the bolt size, you just have to know how to read it. Here is how it works...

The part number is broken down into 3 parts 99999-06012-00 is an example. The second part, which is 06012 tells you the size. That bolt is 6mm in diameter and 12mm in length. If the second part was 08024 the bolt would be 8mm in diameter and 24mm in length. The first part of the part number tell what type of part it is such as bolt, screw, washer etc. and last 2 digits generally determines the finish such as black, cad, etc"


So the flange bolts (BOLT, STUD 95911-08625-00) looks to be, 8mm by 62.5mm ,,,, Threaded on both ends.