Stupid Question/Solid Engine Mounts

[F100Panel]

Durring my working career they did a personality analysis type of thing &....I'm confirmed as part of the 5% of the population that thinks/approaches everything differently... No more right or wrong than the other 95% just a different approach... I just finished putting engine gaurds/highway pegs on my 97 'Max. To do this I had to remove one Allen Bolt (each Side) from where the front motor mount bracket mounts to the frame rail... Bolts came out easy.. I'm a big/250 pound guy... The front fork brace upgrade is next & then solid engine mounts to give the bike a basic structure stiffening/maybe even handle better with my weight. When I was putting on the highway bars/engine gaurds I was thinking likely the way to install the solid engine mounts would be to unbolt the brakets from the frame rails & then pull out the rubber bushings.:ummm: I was just about to order the solid engine mounts. THEN I scroll down to the how to section, click on Solid Engine Mount Install on this website & see THERE APPEARS TO BE A LOT MORE TO THIS THAN I THOUGHT??? Jacking up the engine, disconnect the muffler pipes & more... Has anyone ever tried just popping the engine mount brackets off the frame rails or am I just pipe dreaming:rofl_200:?

 

[gamorg02]

Durring my working career they did a personality analysis type of thing &....I'm confirmed as part of the 5% of the population that thinks/approaches everything differently... No more right or wrong than the other 95% just a different approach... I just finished putting engine gaurds/highway pegs on my 97 'Max. To do this I had to remove one Allen Bolt (each Side) from where the front motor mount bracket mounts to the frame rail... Bolts came out easy.. I'm a big/250 pound guy... The front fork brace upgrade is next & then solid engine mounts to give the bike a basic structure stiffening/maybe even handle better with my weight. When I was putting on the highway bars/engine gaurds I was thinking likely the way to install the solid engine mounts would be to unbolt the brakets from the frame rails & then pull out the rubber bushings.:ummm: I was just about to order the solid engine mounts. THEN I scroll down to the how to section, click on Solid Engine Mount Install on this website & see THERE APPEARS TO BE A LOT MORE TO THIS THAN I THOUGHT??? Jacking up the engine, disconnect the muffler pipes & more... Has anyone ever tried just popping the engine mount brackets off the frame rails or am I just pipe dreaming:rofl_200:?

you are correct, the jacking etc etc is to get at the REAR mounts.

 

[dannymax]

Yup, the rear ones are the problem, and frankly not worth the effort as far as I'm concerned. I installed delrin mounts in my '06 and other than a little additional vibration which loosens bolts and fuzz's up mirrors, there doesn't appear to be much gain.

Chances are if I pull the motor again, or when I pull the motor again, I will remove them and go back to OEM.

 

[gamorg02]

Yup, the rear ones are the problem, and frankly not worth the effort as far as I'm concerned. I installed delrin mounts in my '06 and other than a little additional vibration which loosens bolts and fuzz's up mirrors, there doesn't appear to be much gain.

Chances are if I pull the motor again, or when I pull the motor again, I will remove them and go back to OEM.

+1

i'd get a frame brace again tho.

 

[98Redlne]

Rear mounts are a real PITA. and yes, exhaust off, jacking the motor, often from two places and horsing it around to get them seated.

I can't say if the rears offer any benefit over just the front two, but I did notice that bike was markedly more stable going through sweepers where the road surface was not particularly smooth. The bike felt way more planted and stable.

The vibration in the bars/mirrors can be minimized by either using something like a bar snake or filling your handlebars with lead shot.

 

[gamorg02]

Rear mounts are a real PITA. and yes, exhaust off, jacking the motor, often from two places and horsing it around to get them seated.

I can't say if the rears offer any benefit over just the front two, but I did notice that bike was markedly more stable going through sweepers where the road surface was not particularly smooth. The bike felt way more planted and stable.

The vibration in the bars/mirrors can be minimized by either using something like a bar snake or filling your handlebars with lead shot.

barsnake did nothing for mine.

 

[F100Panel]

Well again a cursory look proves to be insufficient... True the rear engine mounts look to be allen head bolted to the frame same as the fronts but after reading the posts above I put the reading glasses on & looked CLOSE.... Yup, the guys above are spot on.... Now though with reading about the vibration issues, I'm not sure solid mounts for me are practical. I think I'll still do the fork brace & then if I need to continue to play, think things like progressive fork springs or shocks? This asked as I'm just a casual rider & don't wanna waste time.money on suspension work if all I'm worried about is my weight ( 250 pounds ) on the bike? THANKS GUYS!!!unk:

 

[dannymax]

Progressive fork springs with gold valve emulators and progressive rear shocks are what I run on my '99....you won't be unhappy with those upgrades.

If you really want to improve handling try new wheels & radials, the difference is night & day.

 

[[email protected]]

The best money you can spend on suspension is fork springs. You can get them for a bit under $100 shipped. Then you just need some oil. If you don't want to lower the bike there is no need to tear the forks completely apart and change seals, etc. Easy job. Makes a huge difference!

I've done fork springs, ricor intiminators, 440 shocks, solid mounts, etc.....The best return on your money is fork springs. I wouldn't waste the cash on a fork brace unless you just want something that looks different than OEM.

 

[gamorg02]

i have 412's and didn't notice a difference from stock, the front suspession upgrade to progressive was nice.

i have to agree with danny tho, the best handling upgrades are:

new rim(s)/radial tires
frame brace
swingarm brace

 

[Redbone]

I installed delrin MM last winter when I had my engine out to clean the bike, oh wait, it wasn't to clean it it was to get 2nd gear repaired.:biglaugh:
I have had no problems with loose bolts but I used a liberal amount of blue loctite while reassembling. I had the luxury of getting a large number, probably more than a person would normally get when just installing the SMM's so that probably helped a ton with loose bolts. I did have a few mind you but nothing like others have reported.
The biggest issue I have seen is in the mirrors, and it's really not that bad, IMO.
I did notice a couple things that will need to be taken care of, namely swingarm probably should be braced and maybe the the rear frame around the swingarm pivots could be braced as well. I don't think I need the frame brace, since I have the SMM's, it's not the look I'm going for anyways.
Fork springs made a ton of difference early on and would high recommend them to even a casual rider! The rear shock upgrade to Progressive HD440's really helped control the rear end but also revealed the need for swingarm bracing and the shortcomings of the bias ply tires. Radials are the finishing touch on getting the Vmax to handle the best this beast is going to handle.
I'm a heavier rider at ~270 lbs so the suspension mods help a ton over stock.