You set the voltages the same....and use the same map as well.
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The IGNITECH TCI thread
- Thread starter wildweasel_pt
- Start date
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thor_eyerdhal
Well-Known Member
Forget all of this!
My memory is in failure mode
The problem was with removing the tag PERCENT in the servo settings...
Nothing wrong with TPS instead of IAP !
I did shotgun and boy I think it really helped! I dont have time to ride today, tomorrow I'll test it.. But it sounds better, throttle response is crispier and my idle raised from 950 to 1100 in ignitech control program (cant remember what it was called)!! Also, I got one pilot screw that didn't have any effect even if I screwed it to bottom, nothing, now motor stumbles with every screw when turned to bottom.
It got even better when I set voltages to ignitech after shotgun, it ran quite good even without airbox (is that even possible??) 8)
Hope it was that easy fix, I was sure I have atleast broken piston, valve or something like that.. Fingers crossed!! Thanks Traumahawk especially for mentioning shotgun!!
It got even better when I set voltages to ignitech after shotgun, it ran quite good even without airbox (is that even possible??) 8)
Hope it was that easy fix, I was sure I have atleast broken piston, valve or something like that.. Fingers crossed!! Thanks Traumahawk especially for mentioning shotgun!!
dingy
Well-Known Member
Here is procedure I use to set MAP voltages on the Miscellaneous tab & also include it on CD to people that get Ignitech units from me. The procedure to set up voltages for a true Throttle Position Sensor would be different.
Procedure I use to with MAP sensor set TPS sensor settings. Similar procedure to set IAP stting also.
With PC hooked & and connected to TCI, start motor (warmed up already) choke off.
On the Miscellaneous tab. verify sensor setting is on TPS (can be on IAP, but can not be set to No.)
At bottom left of TCIP4 window, there is an RPM =_ and a TP=(%) bar graph. With the motor idling I set the TP graph so the black bar is just at the far right side of block. This is adjusted by changing TPS Voltage setting, the lower green block controls idle setting when using MAP sensor. then programming TCI and rechecking setting. This will take a number of adjustments to get bar to show far right. To set the WOT on left side of bar. I crack throttle wide open and watch screen to see if black bar disappears. The upper green block controls WOT setting when using MAP sensor.
If either setting is to the far left or far right of graph, the voltage settings need to be adjusted to bring bar back on graph so as to have a point of reference, then adjusted to back just off graph again.
Remember to reprogram after each adjustment.
Due to the sensitivity the TCIP4 software has, the TP setting will pulse, this is normal and happen on all motors.
Gary
Procedure I use to with MAP sensor set TPS sensor settings. Similar procedure to set IAP stting also.
With PC hooked & and connected to TCI, start motor (warmed up already) choke off.
On the Miscellaneous tab. verify sensor setting is on TPS (can be on IAP, but can not be set to No.)
At bottom left of TCIP4 window, there is an RPM =_ and a TP=(%) bar graph. With the motor idling I set the TP graph so the black bar is just at the far right side of block. This is adjusted by changing TPS Voltage setting, the lower green block controls idle setting when using MAP sensor. then programming TCI and rechecking setting. This will take a number of adjustments to get bar to show far right. To set the WOT on left side of bar. I crack throttle wide open and watch screen to see if black bar disappears. The upper green block controls WOT setting when using MAP sensor.
If either setting is to the far left or far right of graph, the voltage settings need to be adjusted to bring bar back on graph so as to have a point of reference, then adjusted to back just off graph again.
Remember to reprogram after each adjustment.
Due to the sensitivity the TCIP4 software has, the TP setting will pulse, this is normal and happen on all motors.
Gary
Well, bike ran great after shotgun, for a while, but yesterday it died on the road.
Started up but died again after half a mile, I thought it was shot ground cable and I replaced that, bike started right up after I changed that but today I was going to ride but bike wont start. F!!
Its definetily something electrical, its on/off.. feels pretty much the same as when my dynatek 3000 was going bad!!
May it be that Ignitech has corroded too? There is green stuff on bottom of the pins, last time i saw that stuff on my cracked dyna and boy, it was ugly inside!
I noticed, that vboost cycles every time after I have cranked the engine, like Ignitech loses power during cranking -> no spark?? Bike started barely after I wiggled Ignitechs connector few times, but it sounded very bad almost like timing way off or some cylinder/s not firing.
Few pics, old dyna included..
Started up but died again after half a mile, I thought it was shot ground cable and I replaced that, bike started right up after I changed that but today I was going to ride but bike wont start. F!!
Its definetily something electrical, its on/off.. feels pretty much the same as when my dynatek 3000 was going bad!!
May it be that Ignitech has corroded too? There is green stuff on bottom of the pins, last time i saw that stuff on my cracked dyna and boy, it was ugly inside!
I noticed, that vboost cycles every time after I have cranked the engine, like Ignitech loses power during cranking -> no spark?? Bike started barely after I wiggled Ignitechs connector few times, but it sounded very bad almost like timing way off or some cylinder/s not firing.
Few pics, old dyna included..
Attachments
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First of all....how is your battery? When mine was going south a month ago....the bike would start....idle.....and then going up the road....would die.
Second.....about 2 weeks later. ...my vboost just wasn't acting right. When I was around the ignitech before. ...I noticed some corrosion. ...but that couldn't be it....could it? So I took it out. .....and sprayed the connections with corrosion cleaner....several times and let it set. The fluid started out clear...but after I let it set, it turned black and was cleaning the corrosion off. Everything works fine now. Corrosion increases the resistence. ...and that's what I think the issue is.
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Second.....about 2 weeks later. ...my vboost just wasn't acting right. When I was around the ignitech before. ...I noticed some corrosion. ...but that couldn't be it....could it? So I took it out. .....and sprayed the connections with corrosion cleaner....several times and let it set. The fluid started out clear...but after I let it set, it turned black and was cleaning the corrosion off. Everything works fine now. Corrosion increases the resistence. ...and that's what I think the issue is.
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I sprayed contacts cleaner many many times to every connector I found on a bike but no change.. Every time engine cranks it loses connection with PC. One time I got bike run and idle (very roughly) and PC said "no connection".. I tried with other ignitech wire set too, no affect. I ordered new box, should be in in a few days.
Battery is fine I think, because it spins engine very good. I put battery to too now, just to be sure.
Battery is fine I think, because it spins engine very good. I put battery to too now, just to be sure.
With the bike on.....but not running....what are the volts at the battery? Mine were 12.25. Sean said that it should be closer to 12.5. I believe he said 12.55....I think. The battery had a surface charge....but not a deep one. A new battery fixed the issues.
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I haven't measured it, but in that ignitech control program it was 11,5v I think..? I think it never has been higher, maybe, odyssey PC680 and about three years old. It cranked great though. I had it on battery charger for about 5 hours, and it was still putting 0,83a to it, voltages were 13,8 on charger and it showed almost full. But was still charging.
Last time I rode the bike (it died two times and on third I tried to get home) bike died, but I keeped gear in and changed down when speed dropped, bike did woke up few times and then died again, like in a blink of an eye.
What is that golden coloured, round thing on top of a battery, under seat? Starter relay?? Is that OK, if engine cranks?
Last time I rode the bike (it died two times and on third I tried to get home) bike died, but I keeped gear in and changed down when speed dropped, bike did woke up few times and then died again, like in a blink of an eye.
What is that golden coloured, round thing on top of a battery, under seat? Starter relay?? Is that OK, if engine cranks?
dingy
Well-Known Member
Read the voltages on the Ignitech 20 pin connector. Pins 13 (pos) & 14 (neg). Read it with TCI connected and removed. You can back stab the connector with paper clips if your meter probes won't reach in. Picture attached of connector, it has MAP sensor & Vboost wires on it that I add.
What I would be interested in is seeing if there is a voltage drop between what you are reading at TCI and what you have at battery terminals.
It voltage is lower at TCI than at battery, you could try to run a temporary wire from the battery positive to the #13 (red) wire on TCI. This will remove any switches and connectors from TCI portion of circuit. You may also want to run a ground to pin #14.
You also have the possibility that the coil positive circuit is low. By putting temporary jumper on TCI as above (positive), this will also bypass coil positive feed through switches. There is no actual ground wire to coils, this is done through TCI.
The Ignitech is rated to work at 8-18 volts. The coils will suffer with low voltage though.
The Ignitech is epoxy filled, so I would think internal circuitry has not been breached by corrosion.
Gary
What I would be interested in is seeing if there is a voltage drop between what you are reading at TCI and what you have at battery terminals.
It voltage is lower at TCI than at battery, you could try to run a temporary wire from the battery positive to the #13 (red) wire on TCI. This will remove any switches and connectors from TCI portion of circuit. You may also want to run a ground to pin #14.
You also have the possibility that the coil positive circuit is low. By putting temporary jumper on TCI as above (positive), this will also bypass coil positive feed through switches. There is no actual ground wire to coils, this is done through TCI.
The Ignitech is rated to work at 8-18 volts. The coils will suffer with low voltage though.
The Ignitech is epoxy filled, so I would think internal circuitry has not been breached by corrosion.
Gary
Attachments
My corrosion was just at the pins.......and like I had said.....cleaned up easily enough.
I soaked Ignitechs pins in contact cleaner few hours and wire set connector was soaking over night, now they are clean as new. Got some dirt out of pins, at the bottom I think all is shiny now. My old multimeter has vanished somewhere, I'll go buy new one to check what voltages is on Igni connector. I hope it is the box as its easy to change, but it may be something else too :/
So I got new ignitech today, and bike started right up! Seems like old ignitech is indeed broken, but what did broke it?
Guy who I bought both of my boxes said, that with COPs and too long dwell times may break ignitech because it runs way too hot then. Or then coil breaks. Or both.
I changed dwell setting from "short" to "auto" little time ago, as it is "auto" as a default in Gary's .IGN file that I have. Could that have broke it?
I heard, that it may increase dwell time if theres some corrosion in coil connectors or something like that, and because of that ignitech raises dwell time too much and get too hot.
Now I put it "short" again, is this otherwise OK? Advance map should be as it is in file I got from Gary (if I remember right).
On pics its still "auto" and times is what they were, I changed it to "short" after I took this pics. First four time setting fields disappears when set as "short".
Guy who I bought both of my boxes said, that with COPs and too long dwell times may break ignitech because it runs way too hot then. Or then coil breaks. Or both.
I changed dwell setting from "short" to "auto" little time ago, as it is "auto" as a default in Gary's .IGN file that I have. Could that have broke it?
I heard, that it may increase dwell time if theres some corrosion in coil connectors or something like that, and because of that ignitech raises dwell time too much and get too hot.
Now I put it "short" again, is this otherwise OK? Advance map should be as it is in file I got from Gary (if I remember right).
On pics its still "auto" and times is what they were, I changed it to "short" after I took this pics. First four time setting fields disappears when set as "short".
Attachments
I dont think that setting the auto feature is what did it. Ive had my dwell on auto for over 2200 miles with no issues. The first 1000 miles the spark plug gap was at .035, and after that I changed it to .040....and again with no issues.
I did notice corrosion when I changed the battery....but that was about 1500 miles ago. I think the corrosion is in large part due to my own impatience when i first put in the ignitech, and I didnt use dielectric grease on the connections when I first put it in.
I did notice corrosion when I changed the battery....but that was about 1500 miles ago. I think the corrosion is in large part due to my own impatience when i first put in the ignitech, and I didnt use dielectric grease on the connections when I first put it in.
dingy
Well-Known Member
I use to put dielectric grease on contacts before I shipped the TCI's. I had a couple of people say they didn't believe in using it, so I quit pre-applying it, now I send a small tube along and if they want to use it they can.
Gary
dingy
Well-Known Member
Below is text from Ignitech manual relating to dwell.
An email exchange I had with them a while back indicated that they thought Auto was the better choice for all around use.
Gary
Dwell - sets excitation of induction coils
Short - for coils with resistance lower than 2 ohms.
dwell time 1 ms with the dynamic addition 12%.
Long - for coils with a resistance greater than 2 ohms.
dwell time 3ms with the dynamic addition 12%.
Manual - the ability to manually determining the excitation time
Auto - automatic dwell time determination. Unit (TCI) determines optimal dwell time by measure dynamic current in channel 1. With that choice the spark-coil has to be connected to channel 1.
Dwell correction parameter [%] - automatically determined dwell time can be corrected percentage.
Dwell time parameter [ms] - requested dwell time
Dwell dynamic addition [%] - dwell addition to compensate uneven engine running at low speed
Max dwell time [ms] - Dwell time limitation, including dynamic addition
Max rpm for dwell by lobe - max rpm definition - the start ignition sequence of coils excitation will be used up to the speed. Generating by a fixed angle with the virtual lobe
definition. The virtual lobe is defined in the configuration of the sensor system (see tab sheet Bike).
Thanks, that explains a lot!! I dont know what may have broke it, maybe its just bad luck.. This time I used CRC oxide clean and CRC contact protect on every connector I saw as everything was exposed anyway.
lonestarmedic
Well-Known Member
Man, between this thread and the thread on Venturerider there is a pile to read. I understand most of what I see. My only question seems to be my starting point. For a 2 pickup non-Vboost motor what is a good starting map. I am running a 1986 Venture Royale.
I am after best performance that does not give up reliability. And I like that 1 revolution without spark. Should make a difference in the hot start capability.
JB
I am after best performance that does not give up reliability. And I like that 1 revolution without spark. Should make a difference in the hot start capability.
JB
I'm running v96 of the software. There are two advance maps. Does anyone know how to toggle between map 1 and map 2? I was sure if the "program" button loaded both maps to the unit or if it only uploaded whichever was highlighted.
Cheers.
Mark
Cheers.
Mark
