Threed about rubbers

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Robertpaterson

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Hi am trying to find out what kind of carb rubbers I need carb to air box any one help with link cheers patty
 
#3 is carb to intake rubber, Robert. #43 illustrated is the the air intake Horn inside the airbox and includes the joint rubber you seek.
 
Am not sure wot ones it is think its 3 they are cracked n drawing in to much air making it lag and lunch nearly jumped out my hands lol
 
For me parts #3 were split very slightly at the clamp area and difficult to see. When I stripped them I seen that at least three of them were split very slightly. The cause of the worst one was because someone previous to me had missed the sleeve spacer out at the clamp and hence over-tightened the clamp. But I suppose old age and heat from the engine just eventually caused them to perish.
 
For me parts #3 were split very slightly at the clamp area and difficult to see. When I stripped them I seen that at least three of them were split very slightly. The cause of the worst one was because someone previous to me had missed the sleeve spacer out at the clamp and hence over-tightened the clamp. But I suppose old age and heat from the engine just eventually caused them to perish.
Yea that's wot happened to mine will get a set still need a few things to
 
The clamps that hold the rubbers to the carbs have a small spacer (metal tube) that goes over the bolt to prevent the clamps from being over tightened, as mentioned above.

Be careful as you remove the clamps because if you fully undo the screws, the metal tubes may fall of and disappear into the nether regions of the engine. (hint you can recover them with a magnet on a stick, assuming you can see them or check the ground)

Fitting a small o-ring onto the bolts will stop the spaces from falling off.
 
Cheers not sure wot ones it is yet lol need to see when I pull it apart
These are the ones I had to replace. Being mean with my money forced me to strip again and do the other set of rubbers (thought I could get away with 1 set)!
Hope that helps you out.
 

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Hi am trying to find out what kind of carb rubbers I need carb to air box any one help with link cheers patty
I too had been having the bad boot issue and along with a few other discoveries found that my attempts to push the box down over the carbs with the velocity stack/tubes was literally pushing the tube passed the boot to the mouth of the carb.
In doing so had the boots pushed up under the box so the clamp rings where only really clamping down on the stack tube instead of the carbs.
I would feel a good secure clamp, no wiggle, screws tight but I could easily lift the box right up off the carbs.
It was during my "stroke of genius" LOL,to solve my problem by using my
trusty old Dremel did I learn the the boots and tubes are NOT one piece!
20210202_132315.jpg
 
Robert; if your kinda near by and need a hand give me a shout, I live in Pollok, Glasgow.
The first time pulling the carbs and v-boost system out for inspection can be a bit daunting as its kinda different from the norm. There are a couple of tricks to getting them out quickly and safely.
 
The clamps that hold the rubbers to the carbs have a small spacer (metal tube) that goes over the bolt to prevent the clamps from being over tightened, as mentioned above.

Be careful as you remove the clamps because if you fully undo the screws, the metal tubes may fall of and disappear into the nether regions of the engine. (hint you can recover them with a magnet on a stick, assuming you can see them or check the ground)

Fitting a small o-ring onto the bolts will stop the spaces from falling off.
That would help, but there's absolutely no reason to entirely unthread that small machine screw (you mention that, removing the screw). Actually to my way of thinking, the small flange on the clamp is what limits the crush-movement of the screw.

VMax carb-VBoost manifold clamp.jpg
 
That would help, but there's absolutely no reason to entirely unthread that small machine screw (you mention that, removing the screw). Actually to my way of thinking, the small flange on the clamp is what limits the crush-movement of the screw.

View attachment 75459
Aha, I went out and had a look at my clamps and there are no tabs on Trigger’s carbs. Must be the motorcycle year or whatever dictates whether you have spacers or tabs.
I imagine for someone with a touch like a gorilla spacers would be better.
 
Aha, I went out and had a look at my clamps and there are no tabs on Trigger’s carbs. Must be the motorcycle year or whatever dictates whether you have spacers or tabs.
I imagine for someone with a touch like a gorilla spacers would be better.
I suspect your clamps are replacements and not OEM. I've never-seen a VMax without that style for the VBoost to carburetor rack connections/rubber boots. My 1987 FZR1000 uses the same style.
 
I suspect your clamps are replacements and not OEM. I've never-seen a VMax without that style for the VBoost to carburetor rack connections/rubber boots. My 1987 FZR1000 uses the same style.
Makes sense as the carbs had been tampered with previously. There was even a small band of insulation tape below the clamps that could not be seen until removal, this was some plonkers way of dealing with and/or disguising split rubbers.
 
Robert; if your kinda near by and need a hand give me a shout, I live in Pollok, Glasgow.
The first time pulling the carbs and v-boost system out for inspection can be a bit daunting as its kinda different from the norm. There are a couple of tricks to getting them out quickly and safely.
 
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