Top mods for bone stock 01?

[sidwin]

So i'm trying to figure out the top things you should do to a vmax when you get. I've already gone through changing oil, diff fluid, brake fluid, etc.

What are the best bang for the buck mods that you all would recommend? What mods could you guys not live without? Anything that is a must have or must do? In my FZ i had to get a fuel cut remover and eliminate some stock emission stuff for better longevity. Only thing done to this bike is windshield and engine savers.

Thanks,
Sid

 

[maleko89]

First thing I would do is a different seat, then different front brakes ('Busa or R1 calipers), solid motor mounts, Racetech fork emulators/springs.

 

[vmax626]

+1 to that,
Then you could do the crimp fix and change out your coils for some Denso coil over plug caps, T- Boost module for fun and install a manual fan switch, change out the stock voltage regulator for one from an "R1" and install a thermostat that opens at 180 degrees.
These are all major improvements that will solve all overheating and hot start problems the bike has.
I can help you with these if you need it.
<<Dave>>unk:

 

[gamorg02]

seat, #1. Mark/dave u really think brake upgrades are needed for 93+ bikes? i've never had a problem stopping mine.

 

[naughtyG]

I agree,

#1 is seat (PITA)

#2 is brakes (EBC HH pads for starters)

#3 is solid motor mounts or frame braces (if you like turning fast)

#4 is suspension - Ricor Intimators or emulators and better springs in forks, better shocks like Progressive 440 or 418.

All the little things like Dave said - crimp fix, fan switch, T-boost etc should get done anyway.

 

[Nicki66]

NG you are right on. Seans seat and some EBC HH pads and solid motor mounts.

 

[sidwin]

+1 to that,
Then you could do the crimp fix and change out your coils for some Denso coil over plug caps, T- Boost module for fun and install a manual fan switch, change out the stock voltage regulator for one from an "R1" and install a thermostat that opens at 180 degrees.
These are all major improvements that will solve all overheating and hot start problems the bike has.
I can help you with these if you need it.
<<Dave>>unk:

coming from a fz1 this seat feels like a cadillac

what is the crimp fix? Where and how much for the denso coil caps?

How hard to replace the regulator and tstat? I want to change the coolant anyways and that would be a good excuse.

I just ordered a set of 120/18 and 170/15 shinko tires. I hope they don't cause too much understeer. those stock tires are dry rot and garbage.

 

[sidwin]

who would you all recommend buying the pads from? I just change that 9 yr old brake fluid with some fresh synthetic dot 4. the spongy feeling is half gone.

 

[gamorg02]

I buy everything from Sean. Whos prices are typically lower, but even if they were higher i try to give him all the business I can -> the customer service can't be beat.

 

[maleko89]

seat, #1. Mark/dave u really think brake upgrades are needed for 93+ bikes? i've never had a problem stopping mine.

Garret, depends. I thought the setup you have stopped MUCH better than the old style I originally had. R1 was a bit of improvment over late model brakes mostly due to feel. But, Busa calipers are better than even R1 calipers...it's the best I have tried.

 

[[email protected]]

coming from a fz1 this seat feels like a cadillac

what is the crimp fix? Where and how much for the denso coil caps?

How hard to replace the regulator and tstat? I want to change the coolant anyways and that would be a good excuse.

I just ordered a set of 120/18 and 170/15 shinko tires. I hope they don't cause too much understeer. those stock tires are dry rot and garbage.

Crimp fix is basically just soldering a corrosion-prone, mechanical splice in the wiring harness. Do a search here on the site. There are also great instructions on how to do that on the "Vmax Outlaw" site

No need to replace your regulator unless yours is not working properly. Its not like a new one is going to make you bike better unless the one you have is crap. Typically it works, or it doesn't. Sometimes what you think may be a crapped out regulator my just be some bad connections that need cleaned up.

No need to go out and buy COP's (denso coils) either. Unless your ignition coils are junk. If you are having problems with your coils then they are a great way to go. You can buy them from ebay dirt cheap. Just be careful which ones you use when coupled with aftermarket ignition boxes (i.e. Dyna 3000). Do a search here for the COP mod. There is a long thread dedicated to the swap.

The shinkos are great bang for the buck. They grip well. My rear one did not last for very long but you cannot beat the price.

IMO the seat needs some work. Morley Muscle, Blue Ridge Sportmax, or UFO are the 3 that do a nice job with the seat.

Solid motor mounts are a cheap, great way to improve handling as are new fork springs and oil. You can also go with emulators or intiminators but for a cheap fix, springs will make a huge difference.

I thought cheap bar end mirrors and mini-LED turn signals were one of the biggest improvements on looks on the bike.

I think exhaust is one of the best mods for this bike. It changes the attitude from street sleeper to beast. If your into a loud v-8 rumble go out and get a new exhaust for this bike. It sounds awesome with a good set of pipes. A jet kit is NOT necessary. Tuning is though. A couple shims and maybe a smaller set of mains and you'd be good to go. Not to mention you would pick up some HP too! Marks Pipes, Kerker, Hindle, Holeshot, HMF, UFO, are all name brand pipes that look and sound great. Everyone has an opinion of their own on which is best. They all perform good. It comes down to what you think looks and sounds best.

 

[mike7488]

You are going to have to evaluate your own situation, bike & riding style to determine what you should/need to do, then weed thru all the suggestions given here or found on this site. Everyone has an opinion as to what is important in terms of improvements. A lot of people are going to throw money and parts at anything to have a bigger mod story when bench racing, but, listen to some of the old Vmaxers that have been around a while & thats where you will get your best advice....remember, if it ain't broke...don't fix it....

-Mike

 

[Nicki66]

I can say that I did ride two days in a row this week, of which the rides were 500 miles the first day and 550 miles the second day. I will say the the Morley Muscle seat is damn good!!

 

[maxcruiser]

I think you first need to ask yourself what kind of ride you are going for (streetfighter, mild custom, touring cruiser, etc...) and than get the mods lined up according to need and budget.

There's some very sweet examples of pretty much every style of max in the Gallery/Garage, should help you decide what you want your max to be.

Mike

 

[sidwin]

cooling mods- my bike runs warm. this morning took her to work and saw the needle above the dot. so i'm thinking perhaps a new lower thermostat and maybe a holeshot fan. Where do i pick up a 180F stat and anyone have opinions on the fan. New Orleans is awful hot in the summer so i need to do something. Any pics or diy thread on changing the stat and mounting the fan switch would be great.

I can't wait to get the new tires on. The bike feels twitchy and i think that is due to the crappy stock tires. hopefully i made the right choice going 120/170 setup.

Thanks for everyone input. I'm thinking of holding off on the exhaust. I have a shadow with VH pipes and it is way to loud. It is amazing to do 95MPH and here nothing but the wind noise.

 

[sidwin]

i'm a car guy and was wondering how does solid motor mounts help handling? Does it add too much vibration through the frame?

is it hard to change the springs and do i only have to change the fronts?

 

[naughtyG]

U'll be fine with those tires.

I wouldn't bother with the 180F sensor - just wire in a bypass switch and mount it on the handlebars, that way you can turn the fan on manually as soon as it hits half-way up the gauge in traffic and it'll keep it there. Then you can leave it off while running on the highway - there's enough cooling then and with my lower temp switch I found that the fan was running all the time (on the highway too) and it was hitting my mpg pretty bad. Typically 10 miles per tank :confused2:

It's real easy to do the manual switch - do a search I think a few people posted how to do it in the last few months.

I think the OEM fan does the job fine - more important is to make sure the radiator and cooling system are free of crap and deposits - a good flush takes care of that usually.
Then in hot weather, you can experiment with Engine Ice as a coolant - some say it helps - but I reckon just put plenty of clean water (it's got THE best heat dissipating properties) in there and just enough coolant to keep the system sweet and free of corrosion. In hot weather 50/50 is overkill, 75/25 is usually well enough.

 

[naughtyG]

i'm a car guy and was wondering how does solid motor mounts help handling?

Do you ride and turn at high speed? You'll notice the bike wobbles, that's because the frame flexes. The SMM make the engine a stressed member of the frame, stiffening things a LOT.

Does it add too much vibration through the frame?

Apparently it does some. There are ways to help in the handlebars, fill them with sand or buckshot, buy a Bar Snake, or Ricor make nice anti-vibes balancing gizmos. I'm going SMM with the Ricor way soon...

is it hard to change the springs and do i only have to change the fronts?

Piss easy to do the springs. I think someone posted it recently in pictures. You just take the forks off, drain the oil, let the old springs fall out, drop the new ones in, refill with the right quantity of oil and refit. I highly recommend the Ricor Intimators too - there's a guy on the VMOA site selling a brand new set for $125.

 

[4gasem]

Well I bought my bike new not molested and the first thing I did was replace the brake pads and lines, exhaust and bar. That was right around 150 miles.

Over the next winter I replaced fork springs, installed emulators, replaced rear shocks, wheels, painted it, frame braces, and a few other things.

Personally I found the most bang for the buck out of the suspension upgrade. Especially up front. and the brake lines and pads.

Of course on a used bike I would replace ALL fluids with new and go from there.

Chris

 

[Thevmaxrider]

I am surprised that no one has mentioned this mod:

Stainless steel brake and clutch lines!!! You will get rid of a lot of the spongy brake feel with a good set of SS lines. The stockers are junk and go bad after a few years and start to flex. OOOOOPS Chris said brake lines, just not SS ones.

First thing you need to ask yourself, as Maxcruiser stated so eloquently, is what you want to do with your Max. Then go from there.