Torque wrench replacement

[SpareHimps]

What's everyone's go to brand of torque wrench? I need to replace/ upgrade mine and thought this group probably has plenty of insight to offer.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

Cause I used to be a wrench, I have Snap-on for my 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 click type torque wrenches and I have a 1/2 Mac digital with torque angle. Not cheap, but accurate and durable.

 

[caseyjones955]

1+, Snap-on micrometer torques are da titz! I believe they are still domestically produced but I would make sure. Plenty of names previously known for quality have been busy importing a lot more stuff from a place that does not value accuracy or quality, so definitely buyer beware.

CDI used to make a heck of a torque, bet they still do. IIRC they did/do make torques for Snap-on. A good torque is likely to set a feller back at least a couple bones, likely more, but it's worth it to have one you can count on to be accurate and consistent without fail.

If you buy a used one remember to budget for having it calibrated.
Repair kits are also available for quality torques if you have a good one that is just worn out.

PI (Precision Instruments) are said to be domestically made and very popular, I've never owned one so cant comment but I know others that are very happy with them.

Avoid Harbor Freight.

 

[Fire-medic]

I have a beam-type Craftsman 1/2" I've used for > 40 years. I also have a NAPA Carlyle TW14RH1 1/4" drive clicker for lighter-duty use. Awhile ago I bought a used, vintage Plomb like my Craftsman 1/2" and they give very similar readings.



I also have manual-read (not LCD digital electronic read-out) 'clicker' HFT torque wrenches, and they seem to give similar to my beam wrenches readings.

 

[maleko89]

I've had Harbor Freight versions (Pittsburgh) the last 10-12 years and worked out great for me. Nothing that I've torqued has fallen off yet at least lol.

 

[02GF74]

Over this side of the pond, Norbar is the go to brand, followed by Teng.

Lower down there is Sealey and Draper.

Then budget brands like Silverline.

Expect to pay about 5x more for the top brands compared to the no brand Chinese stuff.

As for calibration, unless it was abused, I'm not convinced that is necessary, we're working on a mass produced motorcycle, not the Webb telescope.

 

[sdt354]

MAC has been it for me for a long time.

 

[D Larson]

I have a beam-type Craftsman 1/2" I've used for > 40 years. I also have a NAPA Carlyle TW14RH1 1/4" drive clicker for lighter-duty use. Awhile ago I bought a used, vintage Plomb like my Craftsman 1/2" and they give very similar readings.

View attachment 84931View attachment 84932View attachment 84933

That is the one I have as well.

 

[MadMark]

I've had Harbor Freight versions (Pittsburgh) the last 10-12 years and worked out great for me. Nothing that I've torqued has fallen off yet at least lol.

I have a digital clicking Pittsburgh torque wrench also. A friend of mine has a speed shop / chassis shop and he only uses snap-on torque wrenches. So I took my torque wrench and compared it to his snap-on and they were dead on till 150ft lb. But even at 150 ft lb mine was only off .5 ft lb less at 200 ft lb was .7 ft lb .

 

[Coastal Grey]

I have a digital clicking Pittsburgh torque wrench also. A friend of mine has a speed shop / chassis shop and he only uses snap-on torque wrenches. So I took my torque wrench and compared it to his snap-on and they were dead on till 150ft lb. But even at 150 ft lb mine was only off .5 ft lb less at 200 ft lb was .7 ft lb .

.5 and .7 is a small fart