Towing a Vmax

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There is a thread here somewhere about those carriers. Personally I don't see where it would be any harder on a shaft drive bike vs a chain, just has to be in neutral. Though you might have some worry with the output gears and associated bearings not getting oiled while the bike is being towed. Would have to check with Sean Morley or another guru to see what they think.....
 
i'd use it under 50 mph for under 20 miles in an emergency. would i use it to tow 200 miles on the superslab? no.
 
Though you might have some worry with the output gears and associated bearings not getting oiled while the bike is being towed. Would have to check with Sean Morley or another guru to see what they think.....

That's what I would be worried about. It would be easy to remove a chain.

i'd use it under 50 mph for under 20 miles in an emergency. would i use it to tow 200 miles on the superslab? no.


Iv got about a 1/2 mile tow I need asap. But the shaft turning without the engine running?:confused2:
 
That's what I would be worried about. It would be easy to remove a chain.

HUH? Easy? Uhm... Have you removed one lately? :ummm: All new chains don't have a "master link". You have to grind off the buttons, press the pins out and remove the link. To reinstall, you have to put in new pins and mash over the ends. The clips have gone away... Not overly safe IMO.

Iv got about a 1/2 mile tow I need asap. But the shaft turning without the engine running?:confused2:

1/2 mile? I'd push the damn thing...

I load mine into the back of my truck. If you know someone with a hitch, go to uhaul and rent an open trailer to move it.
 
First off I'd ask the manufacturer but I doubt you get any gaurantees there. Just thinking this out logically, the rear pumpkin relies on it's oil bath of the ring right so the pumpkin would be fine I would think. When the bike is in neutral there are no gears being spun so no oil feed from a running motor. The shaft will be spinning the U joint and output pinion gear. There would be my concern for long distance towing because I am unsure how that area is feed it's lubrication.
 
I was thinking Sean didn't think it was a smart idea, but I may be wrong.

I'd definitely pull the clutch lever back and hold it against the bar with tape or a strap of some sort, just in case the transmission goes into a gear. CYA I always say...

Chris
 
Tom, the owner of Dons Honda, trailered it back for me just now:eusa_dance:.

Interesting guy Tom. His dad opened the store 42 years ago. He said he didnt know if his trailer would work with a Yamaha:rofl_200:

Now that that's over I need to find a trailer like Toms. It lowered down to the ground so you didn't need a ramp.
 
The rear diff will be fine. It won't matter about the clutch in or out. In neutral is obvious of course. The shaft will turn and as such will turn the output gear in the case. This of course turns the secondary shaft in the transmission. Even with it in neutral the gears are meshing though no load is being applied so that's nit the issue. BUT, there are a pair of bearings on that shaft and a bearing on the output gear that are normally oiled by pressurized oil. For short distances and slow speeds you'd probably be ok but I would not suggest doing it unless you took out the driveshaft.

Sean
 
The rear diff will be fine. It won't matter about the clutch in or out. In neutral is obvious of course. The shaft will turn and as such will turn the output gear in the case. This of course turns the secondary shaft in the transmission. Even with it in neutral the gears are meshing though no load is being applied so that's nit the issue. BUT, there are a pair of bearings on that shaft and a bearing on the output gear that are normally oiled by pressurized oil. For short distances and slow speeds you'd probably be ok but I would not suggest doing it unless you took out the driveshaft.

Sean

This is what I thought I remembered...
 
taking out the driveshaft isn't really a huge deal either, coudl easily be done in 30 mins on the side of the road.

question tho.

with this angle it would probably work, but in general if the bike was parallel, wouldn't it loose quite a bit of hypoid oil since the seal wouldn't be in there?
 
Turned out my fuel issue wasn't the pump. The U shaped fuel tubing I bent finally pinched off.:biglaugh:

Bikes running good.. But I still need some kind of a trailer.
 
You are correct. Without the shaft it would leak fluid. Now if only you had a broken shaft lol!

Sean
 
The link does not work but i'm guessing it was one of those reciever hitch things that holds the front tire off the ground and the back tire rolls on the ground?

I used one to bring my "new" Vmax back home 200 miles. I will say don't use a 1-1/4 class II hitch and 2" adapter....it sagged alot. Class III hitch only.

I had no problems otherwise. But the idea to put a strap around the clutch lever to hold it back is a good precaution
 
not sure about then gen 1 but the gen 2 specifically states not to tow the bike because the drivetrain is only lubricated with the engine running. they also said no coasting with engine off!!!!
 
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