Update to what did this shop do

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soulsurfer52

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Well I was fortunate enough to have some much needed help from Grimmie, thanks again Grimmie. But we hit some snags Grimmie performed the hole shot method on my bike but when we got to the what I believe is the number three carb the a/f screw at the base of the carb is striped and appears to be all the way tight. So as you might imagine we weren't able to get it running perfect but definitely a lot better. Does anyone have any special hints to getting this screw out other than tapping it?

Also when trying to sync the carbs it appears there wasn't much vacuum pressure on the number two carb any ideas?

And sorry one last thing my throttle cable is also another glaring problem it doesn't snap the throttle back I've tried tightening the return cable didn't help much should I just replace the whole cable or am I missing something simple to check?
 
soulsurfer52 said:
Well I was fortunate enough to have some much needed help from Grimmie, thanks again Grimmie. But we hit some snags Grimmie performed the hole shot method on my bike but when we got to the what I believe is the number three carb the a/f screw at the base of the carb is striped and appears to be all the way tight. So as you might imagine we weren't able to get it running perfect but definitely a lot better. Does anyone have any special hints to getting this screw out other than tapping it?

Also when trying to sync the carbs it appears there wasn't much vacuum pressure on the number two carb any ideas?

And sorry one last thing my throttle cable is also another glaring problem it doesn't snap the throttle back I've tried tightening the return cable didn't help much should I just replace the whole cable or am I missing something simple to check?
Click to expand...


check to make sure the L bracket attached to the carbs is at a perfect right angle. seen ro's and my buddy dimitris throttle cable be sticky b/c of that.
 
Man, that that shop sucks. Be patient, it's all worth the effort when you get everything fixed.. I spent a year and a half getting all the bugs out of mine.
 
Thanks Spec, if it wasn't for this site i'm not sure what i would have done Grimmie's been a big help having someone here locally that has a VMAX and worked alot of these issues already. It's going to take time but she'll get there.
 
A good machinist can get the a/f screw out, I have had a couple that were siezed and they are working now
 
I know what you mean about the people here. I met some of them through the VMOA. I was at my wits end when CaptainKyle started having Central Florida Tech Days. Robert in Orlando sent me a back issue of the VMOA Mag that had an article about Ethanol in it. I was frustrated and trying to figure out how to sell a VMax that didn't run worth 2 cents. Robert, Kyle
and a few others turned things around for me. I think I'm a VMax Lifer now. When I die, you may be able to get my VMax away from me.

When I found this site it so expanded the knowledge base and ease of accessing it. The absolute best people ride VMax's and they're all here or will be soon.

Again, Good Luck. With the people here, No Worries.
Dave / Spec
 
What do you mean by stripped?

1. The thread is stripped and the screw will not back out. You can try to gently push a wire through the other side while driving the screw out. Don't push too hard.
2. The slot in the screw head is stripped/broken and you cannot get a drive to grip on. You can try to use some penetrating oil over night to loosen the screw so it can be easily turned with whatever is left of the head. Try to wash off as much of the oil as possible.

This has never happened to me but I have taken pilot screws out of carbs that do not have a slot head. In fact, there was nothing on the screw head, it was blank. The oil and lots of pressure took it out. I've also had to take out a pilot screw that had a broken slot head on one side. Sort of a half moon was left. soak in some oil. I used a pin to wedge the blade of the drive against the half moon and the wall. Don't forget to use impact type action to slowly creep the screw out. Do not use pure full force muscle in your turns. Apply pressure and turn the drive in pulses. This saves the screw and your drive.
 
Hexec, sorry i should have been more specific the head is all jacked up good call on the penetrating oil i will have to give that a try i need to find where to get a new a/f screw first so i can replace the damaged one once i get it out.
 
If the damage is only to the top of the pilot screw head then you don't need to replace it. You can curve a slot in the top with a rotory tool using a small cutting disk.
 
The slot of the a/f screw is completely rounded off. It is almost flat. I was thinking the best thing for him to do at this point is to send the carbs to Sean and let him sprinkle some Morley dust on them. That way we know there won't be issues with the carbs.

I ran the Shotgun method on the carbs and that cleaned things up quite a bit. The a/f screw that is messed up I have no idea where it is set at. I cleaned that carb as best I could.
 
Use a left-hand twist drill bit. It will walk right out as you are drilling it CAREFULLY of course.
 
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