V-boost is glorified solution for bad carburetors. Funny!!!
- Thread starter DreamV4
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It is useless, but entertaining. Let us say 2 Bandits, 1200 and 600 ride together, same weight with riders. Then both bikers increase power to let us say 70 HP. If they do that, bikes start accelerating equally. Are you with me so far? Ready for next step? So what is difference? Torque will be different about twice. 600 Bandit will have to have 2x more RPM to produce same power! Did you get it now? No? Still didn't? Acceleration will be identical, because they have same power, but torque will be twice different! So, do you still care about torque? I cannot believe I am still trying to explain. Maybe because it makes me smile when people don't understand.
I cannot simplify even more than this.
If I had wanted to be lectured by an ***** I would have asked you first and as you seem to get off on winding folk up I'll just ignore you from now on.
Woody
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Lar's back again?
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I didn’t know why they went to all the trouble of using v-boost, they could have just made them all in ‘85 and painted them black, as we all know this is the only way to product the ultimate Vmax.
Based on your angry post, you finally understood, that torque means nothing and bike is moved by power.
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Screwloose
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Can I jump in here as I believe everyone is saying this correctly.
This will be directly from the horses mouths
, being Newton, Watt, Da Vinci etc. It is all locked by equations developed from these people. Please bear in mind I am not getting at anyone as I see conversations following on in part from others, and at times it's easy for a reader to get mixed up if you are only reading from part way.
We need Energy input (fuel) to get the Work Done. Energy comes in many forms and as it goes in, will branch off in many directions using up parts of this energy blob as frictional heat etc, eventually getting some Work Done hence producing a final output. I view energy as being a blob that goes into a system, various parts are used up as losses and getting the Work Done, and what's left is your output. In our case the desired output is Horse Power, where this unit of power was created as a starting point or benchmark. It is still used throughout industry, on just about every induction motor there is a plate saying the output HP and equivalent Watts.
Energy is time related as it is calculated in one way of using Energy (Watts used over a period of time) = Power (Watt) * Time (seconds) as in your home elec bill of E=Watts per Hour. Torque is not time related as it is measured in force of Newtons/Meter. Horse Power output is time related as 1 Watt = 1 Joule (of energy) per second.
What we now have is torque being produced (by the engine using Energy and getting the Work Done) at the rear wheel, but torque is producing an angular force, and hence a linear tangential (right angled) force in one direction only at the point of contact (tyre and road). With torque not being time related, then the power output means nothing and cannot exist without time now being added to the equation. So torque will move you forward in one linear direction only, but cannot produce power output at this moment as time is needed for the power output equation (HP).
So we have some equations developed by the guys with the sore heads, and we have at one point a torque equation that is in Newton/Meters (no time involved), but is trying to push the bike forward in one direction only. Then a following equation of Power comes along that requires time and hence HP output can be calculated..
So if you try and go from the fuel going in, to the Horse Power out in a sequence of events using calculations, then the torque equation comes along, with the Power equation following after.
Final sum up;
1. Mechanical Power is defined as the 'rate' at which Work is done.
2. Torque is the rotational analogue of Force. Force causes linear acceleration, torque causes angular acceleration.
This will be directly from the horses mouths
, being Newton, Watt, Da Vinci etc. It is all locked by equations developed from these people. Please bear in mind I am not getting at anyone as I see conversations following on in part from others, and at times it's easy for a reader to get mixed up if you are only reading from part way.We need Energy input (fuel) to get the Work Done. Energy comes in many forms and as it goes in, will branch off in many directions using up parts of this energy blob as frictional heat etc, eventually getting some Work Done hence producing a final output. I view energy as being a blob that goes into a system, various parts are used up as losses and getting the Work Done, and what's left is your output. In our case the desired output is Horse Power, where this unit of power was created as a starting point or benchmark. It is still used throughout industry, on just about every induction motor there is a plate saying the output HP and equivalent Watts.
Energy is time related as it is calculated in one way of using Energy (Watts used over a period of time) = Power (Watt) * Time (seconds) as in your home elec bill of E=Watts per Hour. Torque is not time related as it is measured in force of Newtons/Meter. Horse Power output is time related as 1 Watt = 1 Joule (of energy) per second.
What we now have is torque being produced (by the engine using Energy and getting the Work Done) at the rear wheel, but torque is producing an angular force, and hence a linear tangential (right angled) force in one direction only at the point of contact (tyre and road). With torque not being time related, then the power output means nothing and cannot exist without time now being added to the equation. So torque will move you forward in one linear direction only, but cannot produce power output at this moment as time is needed for the power output equation (HP).
So we have some equations developed by the guys with the sore heads, and we have at one point a torque equation that is in Newton/Meters (no time involved), but is trying to push the bike forward in one direction only. Then a following equation of Power comes along that requires time and hence HP output can be calculated..
So if you try and go from the fuel going in, to the Horse Power out in a sequence of events using calculations, then the torque equation comes along, with the Power equation following after.
Final sum up;
1. Mechanical Power is defined as the 'rate' at which Work is done.
2. Torque is the rotational analogue of Force. Force causes linear acceleration, torque causes angular acceleration.
desert_max
Well-Known Member
Wonder if team USA will take home basketball gold this year?
Hope so, behind in the gold count last I saw.
user 16790
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a 1200 Bandit riding along side a 600 Bandit both in top gear cruising along at 60mph, both riders decide they need to accelerate away from a speeding out of control lorry behind them,
both riders hit the throttle, 1200 picks up and accelerates away, 600 stays almost the same so kicks down a gear and a bit more happens so kicks down another gear to get into the power revs and accelerates away, just in time,
1200 rider feels safe and secure due to the reaction of his torquey motor,
600 rider feels safe but may need new underwear due to nothing happening because of little torque but changed down enough gears to get power just in time before the lorry hit
just a possible scenario
both riders hit the throttle, 1200 picks up and accelerates away, 600 stays almost the same so kicks down a gear and a bit more happens so kicks down another gear to get into the power revs and accelerates away, just in time,
1200 rider feels safe and secure due to the reaction of his torquey motor,
600 rider feels safe but may need new underwear due to nothing happening because of little torque but changed down enough gears to get power just in time before the lorry hit
just a possible scenario
what is lorry?a 1200 Bandit riding along side a 600 Bandit both in top gear cruising along at 60mph, both riders decide they need to accelerate away from a speeding out of control lorry behind them,
both riders hit the throttle, 1200 picks up and accelerates away, 600 stays almost the same so kicks down a gear and a bit more happens so kicks down another gear to get into the power revs and accelerates away, just in time,
1200 rider feels safe and secure due to the reaction of his torquey motor,
600 rider feels safe but may need new underwear due to nothing happening because of little torque but changed down enough gears to get power just in time before the lorry hit
just a possible scenario
user 16790
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a big vehicle that carries goods from one place to another
Screwloose
Well-Known Member
Hi mate. Sounds good to me, nearly wet my pants a few times on lower power engine bikes with ‘standard gearing’ and guess what; one of them was a 600 Bandit that I was working on for a friend. I renamed this bike the ‘Arse Bandit’.a 1200 Bandit riding along side a 600 Bandit both in top gear cruising along at 60mph, both riders decide they need to accelerate away from a speeding out of control lorry behind them,
both riders hit the throttle, 1200 picks up and accelerates away, 600 stays almost the same so kicks down a gear and a bit more happens so kicks down another gear to get into the power revs and accelerates away, just in time,
1200 rider feels safe and secure due to the reaction of his torquey motor,
600 rider feels safe but may need new underwear due to nothing happening because of little torque but changed down enough gears to get power just in time before the lorry hit
just a possible scenario
So I think that if we look at one bike, then we can split the outputs into two separate parts of power and torque, same source engine, but the two outputs can be separately played around with to give a desired ride at certain RPM’s, as on a Power/Torque graph.
Some people are good at deciphering these graphs and playing around with bikes to get the outputs they want, I’m basic on them and can tell a cruiser from a racing engine, but that’s about it.
I got it! Truck with left steering wheel is called truck, but with right one is called lorri!
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
We would call them tractors or even "Cab overs" here in the US.
one2dmax
Well-Known Member
Or even a "box truck"
I came on the site tonight to see if anyone could suggest a solution for my '85 Max problem, but I am not sure I want the answer now!
FYI, occasional misfire, leading to stall, sounds like one cylinder, only at tickover, only when bike fully warmed up. Otherwise runs perfectly.
Cheers, over and out.
FYI, occasional misfire, leading to stall, sounds like one cylinder, only at tickover, only when bike fully warmed up. Otherwise runs perfectly.
Cheers, over and out.
were valves adjusted in last 30 years or so?
I suggest a couple things.
What does the inside of the gas tank look-like? It should be shiny metal on the interior, unless some prior owner, or you, coated it with a gas tank liner product.
When have you replaced the gas filter? You can probably find a similar size at your local parts house. Take your old one to match-up, it should be much-cheaper than the OEM.
Use an Infrared gun or spritz water onto the header pipes and see the temp or how-quickly the water evaporates. Engine running, of course. Do you see a difference in the temperatures, comparatively? Try to use the IR gun as-close to the cyl head, on the header pipes as you can.
Try unscrewing the spark plug caps and see what color is on the end of the primary high-tension wire connecting to the cap. It's possible that you have some green corrosion there, trim it back a bit with a good wire-cutter, and examine the spark plug cap screw that the wire connects to, for the same thing. If you find the green corrosion clean it as-best you can, use a small dollop of dielectric grease on the conductor when reassembling.
How-long have you owned the bike? A common problem is blockage/obstruction of the pilot jets, affecting idle and low-speed throttle settings. To properly fix this, carburetor removal and splitting the carbs into two pairs, removal of the float chambers, and then the jet blocks inside, and the pilot jets and main bleed pipe which both screw-into the jet blocks.
Do not buy the ebay motors aftermarket jet kits which appear to contain lots of shiny brass parts and the rubbers, they have been known to cause problems for those who fall under the spell of, "ooh, shiny! Pretty!" If you find it necessary to replace brass, use OEM. Be aware that the jet block gasket usually tears-apart upon removal, have the replacement gaskets on-hand.
After checking float levels and reassembling the carbs, you have to synchronize the carburetors for optimal operation. It's in the service manual.
http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf Page 5.1 is the start of the carburetor section, names of all the parts are in the following pages, as are procedures.
What does the inside of the gas tank look-like? It should be shiny metal on the interior, unless some prior owner, or you, coated it with a gas tank liner product.
When have you replaced the gas filter? You can probably find a similar size at your local parts house. Take your old one to match-up, it should be much-cheaper than the OEM.
Use an Infrared gun or spritz water onto the header pipes and see the temp or how-quickly the water evaporates. Engine running, of course. Do you see a difference in the temperatures, comparatively? Try to use the IR gun as-close to the cyl head, on the header pipes as you can.
Try unscrewing the spark plug caps and see what color is on the end of the primary high-tension wire connecting to the cap. It's possible that you have some green corrosion there, trim it back a bit with a good wire-cutter, and examine the spark plug cap screw that the wire connects to, for the same thing. If you find the green corrosion clean it as-best you can, use a small dollop of dielectric grease on the conductor when reassembling.
How-long have you owned the bike? A common problem is blockage/obstruction of the pilot jets, affecting idle and low-speed throttle settings. To properly fix this, carburetor removal and splitting the carbs into two pairs, removal of the float chambers, and then the jet blocks inside, and the pilot jets and main bleed pipe which both screw-into the jet blocks.
Do not buy the ebay motors aftermarket jet kits which appear to contain lots of shiny brass parts and the rubbers, they have been known to cause problems for those who fall under the spell of, "ooh, shiny! Pretty!" If you find it necessary to replace brass, use OEM. Be aware that the jet block gasket usually tears-apart upon removal, have the replacement gaskets on-hand.
After checking float levels and reassembling the carbs, you have to synchronize the carburetors for optimal operation. It's in the service manual.
http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf Page 5.1 is the start of the carburetor section, names of all the parts are in the following pages, as are procedures.
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