V-Max purchase - Verificaton attached

[Geek_Law]

Well, first let me say thanks to all of you who put up with my pestering questions on my seemingly endless search for a max. I appreciate all the help.

The search is now over. Here are some pics I snapped in my garage this evening around 10:00pm at night.

She's a 1990 max with 23K on the clock. Paid $3200 cash. She drives solid as a rock, at least for the 70 miles that I put on it this evening. Some very minor cosmetic scratches, but she's gonna be painted, so no worries. Front brakes have issues, they won't lock up no matter how hard I squeeze, so I'll need to get that sorted. Otherwise, she seems pretty solid thus far.

First mods will be:
[] New Radiator shroud
[] Remove sissy bar
[] Paint all tins
[] Fix front brakes
[] Address ugly tail light
[] Relocate license plate
[] Install proper horn
[] Replace grips
[] Replace all pegs
[] Carve out seat into a proper saddle and recover with new design.
[] Powdercoat various engine parts black.


So that should keep me busy for a while.

Here are some very poor quality pics that I took with my phone beneath the crap florescent lights in the garage:

 

[kaboom]

Sounds like you got a preety good deal.....:clapping:

 

[Hatter]

If you don't want that backrest, I got a black anodized grab bar with some cosmetic scratches I will trade you.

 

[4gasem]

Looks good man! The gray seats NEVER worked for me...

Looks like a nice project bike. The brakes are crap on these. Busa Calipers and the such from Morley will help.

 

[06VMAXIMUS]

Looks like some one took good care of it......Good purchase, GL!!

 

[yukonerdave]

Right on - congrats, dude! I'll be doing the busa brake conversion once riding season is over. Also interested in doing something with the radiator - let us know what you go with

 

[vmaxinID]

Good Score,

Now the real question..........is that a Triumph in the background with a side car mounted?

 

[one2dmax]

It's a great start. Polished scoops (we can chrome them when you get tired of polishing), backrest, luggage rack, and mini screen (all of which is discontinued). We can help you with about any of the stuff on your list (paint, seats, brakes, ect....). I am sure if you look around on the forum you'll find a lot of help and info on our products (look in the muscle section).

Sean

 

[Geek_Law]

Sounds like you got a preety good deal.....:clapping:

Thanks! I'm quite pleased with the bike given that I'm only into it $3200 and some time for searching. I like that its mostly stock, and for what I paid, I figured the engine could throw a rod tomorrow or have the clutch burn up and I'd still be ahead of the game.

If you don't want that backrest, I got a black anodized grab bar with some cosmetic scratches I will trade you.

Thanks! I will be taking it off. I actually have a grab bar already so I don't need a trade, but if you are interested, then make me an offer on it. I'll be taking some proper pics and posting it on ebay. I'll also post it here if that's kosher. I haven't been on this particular forum long enough yet to know if that's cool or not. I seem to recall seeing a classified section.

It's not perfect, but its in pretty good shape. I have not decided yet whether I'll put the grab bar on or just leave it bare yet.

Looks good man! The gray seats NEVER worked for me...

Looks like a nice project bike. The brakes are crap on these. Busa Calipers and the such from Morley will help.

Perfect! That's exactly the info that I need. I actually wondered if it was the master cylinder. There is plenty of back pressure, so its not air in the lines. And even with sintered HH race pads, that tire won't lock up. It will slow down hard, but it takes far more pressure than I think that it should

If new calipers are the common consensus, then I'll just do that. If its still not right, I can always replace the master cylinder, and then I still have fancy calipers, so no loss.


SEAN: Want to sell a set of front calipers???

Right on - congrats, dude! I'll be doing the busa brake conversion once riding season is over. Also interested in doing something with the radiator - let us know what you go with

I'll definitely let y'all know. I'll post pics and updates as I tear through the bike and also quite likely ask lots of newbie Q's.

I think my wife and I are zeroing on a theme, but we need to sketch it out a bit first. We showed the bike to my painter last night on the way home from getting the bike (no sense in wasting time) and we got some ideas from him as well.

Looks like some one took good care of it......Good purchase, GL!!

Thanks. Yeah, I think I found one that was well cared for. We'll see if I'm singing the same tune after a couple of thousand miles.

Good Score,

Now the real question..........is that a Triumph in the background with a side car mounted?

Ha! No, that's just one of those fake backdrops like they have on the Jay Leno show and what not.

Ok, yes. That's an '05 2300cc Supercharged Triumph Rocket III with a Hanigan sidecar. I purchased it used and completely stock about 18 months ago. It's not stock anymore:ummm:

Here are better pics. The first one is my favorite.

 

[Geek_Law]

It's a great start. Polished scoops (we can chrome them when you get tired of polishing), backrest, luggage rack, and mini screen (all of which is discontinued). We can help you with about any of the stuff on your list (paint, seats, brakes, ect....). I am sure if you look around on the forum you'll find a lot of help and info on our products (look in the muscle section).

Sean

Thanks Sean.

I've checked out your site already (not sure if that is the same as what is on the forum). I think the first thing that I might be hitting you up for is a pair of BUSA calipers.

Is that a bolt on conversion?

What kind of $$$ are we talking?

-GL

 

[gamorg02]

yea do some research man u'll need adapters, busa calipers aond some new rotors. warriorR6 ( think his SN was), mike did the same thing.

 

[one2dmax]

I am not sure if I have a pair on hand at the moment but they are on ebay quite regularly. They may even be more then jsut the Busa's since Maleko just used my same adapters and ZX12R (I think) calipers.

The adapters run $30 for raw stainless, $40 for coated black, $50 for chromed (check availability) plus shipping. Used rotors run $75 each but we sell new Galfer and EBC stuff too.

Sean

 

[Geek_Law]

yea do some research man u'll need adapters, busa calipers aond some new rotors. warriorR6 ( think his SN was), mike did the same thing.

I am not sure if I have a pair on hand at the moment but they are on ebay quite regularly. They may even be more then jsut the Busa's since Maleko just used my same adapters and ZX12R (I think) calipers.

The adapters run $30 for raw stainless, $40 for coated black, $50 for chromed (check availability) plus shipping. Used rotors run $75 each but we sell new Galfer and EBC stuff too.

Sean

Ok. Thanks to both of you. I'll look into the process. It would be nice to have some proper brakes and the setup.

 

[naughtyG]

I put cheap chinese wave rotors (larger diameter) from fleaBay on mine, using adapters from Steve (Jedi) and HH pads.

With the original calipers and Galfer SS lines, I can now lock my front wheel anytime I like.

The rotors were $160 + shipping, the adapters $20 (bare) and the Galfer lines $100.

Loox like you got a great deal too - bike is pretty much mint. You can get good $ for that little luggage rack if you remove it - I just sold one for $137. Also if you decide to remove the fly screen someone's desperate to get one right here - 82ndCowboy!

 

[Geek_Law]

I put cheap chinese wave rotors (larger diameter) from fleaBay on mine, using adapters from Steve (Jedi) and HH pads.

With the original calipers and Galfer SS lines, I can now lock my front wheel anytime I like.

The rotors were $160 + shipping, the adapters $20 (bare) and the Galfer lines $100.

Loox like you got a great deal too - bike is pretty much mint. You can get good $ for that little luggage rack if you remove it - I just sold one for $137. Also if you decide to remove the fly screen someone's desperate to get one right here - 82ndCowboy!

Thanks for the tip on the brakes. It sounds like that's gonna be the way to go.

As for the rack and sissy bar, that's definitely coming off, so it will be nice to get a bit of cash for it.

The fly screen is going to stay. I think I'm going to have the base painted and then leave the smoked screen as is, and the speedo housing will likely also be painted, so you should be able to see it through the smoked fly screen.

My wife and I just ordered a bunch of parts, so things should start coming together. Not sure if I'll get many miles on her before next summer though. I might end up taking all the tins off in the next week or two.

 

[zippo6]

Holy crap, why would you need to supercharge a Rockett III? I know, I know, because you CAN!!! Sweet rides man!!!

 

[Geek_Law]

Holy crap, why would you need to supercharge a Rockett III? I know, I know, because you CAN!!! Sweet rides man!!!

Yeah ... its one of those "because you can" things. It's really quite over the top, but its a heck of a lot of fun. And I certainly didn't want to be a slow pig on the road just because I have a sidecar. The supercharger ensures that I can get that rig moving in a hurry.

 

[RaWarrior]

My Max came with the whole front brake system from an R1, plus stainless lines. Master cylinder, calipers, and discs. Adjustable handle, and it has that little remote brake fluid canister.

All I can say it that it stops incredibly easily. Two fingers can lock the front wheel. The big Max stops waaaay easier and quicker than my stock Magna, and that weighs a good 200lbs less. Granted, that also has a single 80's "dinner plate" disc and a drum in the back.

Definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

Couple other things you should consider on your 1990

-Do the "crimp fix". There's a tutorial on vmaxoutlaw.com. It's a 2-into-1 factory crimp that greatly inhibits charge rate and overall voltage. Just remove the seat and the coil plate to get at it. I just cut the factory crimp out, and re-did it with a blue butt connector. Voltage rose nearly a full volt off idle, from ~12.9 to 13.8. Takes maybe half an hour.

-Upgrade your shift segment to the new, '99 and up style. Mine let go with virtually zero warning and I had to drive about 100 miles in 3rd gear since I lost 4th and 5th. Depending on which pins fall out, you can lose some or all the gears. The old style has flimsy little "fingers" that hold the pins into the segment, they bend and the pins fall out. The new segment eliminates the little finger retainer ring. Better to just fix the problem before it leaves you limping along if you're lucky, stranded if you're not.

You need part #
4NK 18185 00 (segment)
93604 12037 00 x5(pins)
93604 16092 00 x1(long pin)

Also recommended
90151 06012 00 (segment screw) They tend to get mangled coming out.
3JP 15462 01 00 (cover gasket) Always a good idea to replace.

I got the "kit" of the above 5 parts from Sean for $50 plus shipping- you won't do better at any dealer or mail-order. Takes ~1 hour to update the old segment to the new. Overall shift action improves also. Less play and neutral is easier to get.

 

[Geek_Law]

-Do the "crimp fix". There's a tutorial on vmaxoutlaw.com. It's a 2-into-1 factory crimp that greatly inhibits charge rate and overall voltage. Just remove the seat and the coil plate to get at it. I just cut the factory crimp out, and re-did it with a blue butt connector. Voltage rose nearly a full volt off idle, from ~12.9 to 13.8. Takes maybe half an hour.

-Upgrade your shift segment to the new, '99 and up style. Mine let go with virtually zero warning and I had to drive about 100 miles in 3rd gear since I lost 4th and 5th. Depending on which pins fall out, you can lose some or all the gears. The old style has flimsy little "fingers" that hold the pins into the segment, they bend and the pins fall out. The new segment eliminates the little finger retainer ring. Better to just fix the problem before it leaves you limping along if you're lucky, stranded if you're not.

You need part #
4NK 18185 00 (segment)
93604 12037 00 x5(pins)
93604 16092 00 x1(long pin)

Also recommended
90151 06012 00 (segment screw) They tend to get mangled coming out.
3JP 15462 01 00 (cover gasket) Always a good idea to replace.

I got the "kit" of the above 5 parts from Sean for $50 plus shipping- you won't do better at any dealer or mail-order. Takes ~1 hour to update the old segment to the new. Overall shift action improves also. Less play and neutral is easier to get.

Awesome! Thanks so much. I'll do both fixes.

SEAN: If you have the kit, I'm game. Just tell me how to pay you. CC, Paypal, Check, or whatever.

-GL

 

[2stangs69-91]

why would you want your front wheel to lock up? could go for the better brakes but that sounds a little dangerous.