Valve Job Virgin

[ryancdossey]

I am about to dig into my first ever valve job. I have condensed naughtyG
how to threads on the clearances to a word document I would gladly email out for anyone looking for a "printer friendly" version.

This is my first time ever working inside an engine so I have a few things I need to ask that I still don't quite understand.

What I've got!





Sean also so graciously sent me his valve shim pool. (thanks a million) I only have access to a work space from tomorrow night through sunday. unk:

I have rebuilt mc's both brake and clutch, swapped to ss lines, rebuilt forks, rebuilt calipers, and done basic maint.

I have never done spark plugs how do I remove/reinstall and gap/spec them? A link to a how to would be GREATLY appreciated!

Is it possible to drop a shim in the engine? (i have a magnetic rod tool I will be using as naughtyg recommended to assist in removing the shims.

How do I tell what is an exhaust vs intake valve? What two go together? How many valves are there total?

Opening in the shim bucket/spinning the shim bucket referenced in the how to doesn't make sense to me... Maybe it will when i get in there?!? :ummm:
If a single feeler gauge isn't thick enough for the clearance do I simply stack them and add the values? Is the one pictured the kind I need or is there something specific I need?

He mentions using a different set of gauges from intake clearance to exhaust i'm assuming he is just referencing the value on the feeler I am using correct?

And my dumbest questions for last... Any harm in spinning the engine clockwise AND counter if need be?

 

[ryancdossey]

Oh... If tomorrow night I get everything removed but don't get to actually adjust the clearances till Friday night is it okay to leave it open? Should I throw some cellophane plastic over it to protect it from dust? or am I okay just leaving the covers on loose?

 

[naughtyG]

Oh... If tomorrow night I get everything removed but don't get to actually adjust the clearances till Friday night is it okay to leave it open? Should I throw some cellophane plastic over it to protect it from dust? or am I okay just leaving the covers on loose?

Totally OK to leave it open, and yes throw a blanket or something over to keep the dust out

I have never done spark plugs how do I remove/reinstall and gap/spec them? A link to a how to would be GREATLY appreciated!

You simply pull the spark plug covers off, and then you need a long thin-walled 18mm socket to reach the plugs' nut. Unscrew, take out, inspect. Light tan on electrodes is good. Black/suity means rich. Oily means your pistons rings are prolly shot. White means too lean.
Clean (I use a wire brush but you're supposed to sandblast) or replace (they're cheap enough) with original fitment NGK. Don't bother with any upgrades (iridium, twin/triple/quadruple electrodes etc - it's all naff.

Is it possible to drop a shim in the engine? (i have a magnetic rod tool I will be using as naughtyg recommended to assist in removing the shims.

Yes you can drop anything in there but it's unlikely.

How do I tell what is an exhaust vs intake valve? What two go together? How many valves are there total?

16 valves total - 4 per cylinder - 2 intake and 2 exhaust.

You can tell easy - the ones on the exhaust sides (outside front and outside back are exhaust, the ones on the carbs side (inside front and back) are intake.

Opening in the shim bucket/spinning the shim bucket referenced in the how to doesn't make sense to me... Maybe it will when i get in there?!? :ummm:

hopefully it will! :biglaugh:

If a single feeler gauge isn't thick enough for the clearance do I simply stack them and add the values? Is the one pictured the kind I need or is there something specific I need?

Yes it's fine to stack them - make sure they are clean.
What you pictured is fine.

He mentions using a different set of gauges from intake clearance to exhaust i'm assuming he is just referencing the value on the feeler I am using correct?

yes just values

And my dumbest questions for last... Any harm in spinning the engine clockwise AND counter if need be?

none! :clapping:

 

[satariel666]

About spinning the engine clockwise. Just dont use the flywheel 19mm head bolt to do that.

 

[dannymax]

I have never done spark plugs how do I remove/reinstall and gap/spec them? A link to a how to would be GREATLY appreciated!

After removing the plug caps (but before loosening the spark plugs) be sure to blow compressed air into the plug wells....otherwise any water or small pebbles will end up inside your motor.

 

[ryancdossey]

Alright guys I have dug in and ran into a few more questions.

I only pulled the oil drain plug. Yet there is still oil up under my rear cover. Do I need to pull the filter as well? I don't have a center stand. Just the side stand.


I got the rear cover of which took some maneuvering to clear the chain.

Haven't got to start on the front cover yet... But I noticed a few things. My spark plugs the rubber that surrounds the plastic connector is a bit melted I'm assuming that's normal? I haven't pulled the plugs yet.

In the front it says in the thread the vboost servo is still going to be in the way but I don't see anything.... What gives?

Do you guys just hold your spark plug wires out of the way? Same deal with the fuel pump and flasher relay wires?

I saw in naughtyg s pics what look like a few specs of coolant that dripped into the engine. Mine has the same. I'm assuming it came from what was stuck in the disconnected over flow tank hose. No big deal?


If I'm not to spin the engine clockwise using the 19mmflywheel bolt how am Ito do that?

 

[Rusty McNeil]

If the plugs are out, which they have to be to make the engine "stay where you put it" when rotating; you can turn it either direction with the flywheel bolt. The torque value of the flywheel bolt is way above the force required to
turn the motor with the plugs out.

If you are worried about it retorque it when your done but I don't see that being needed as long as your applying force to the bolt gently with a ratchet or break over bar etc.
The motor turns real easily with the plugs out.

When you put a new shim in be sure to "wipe" the cam
lobe back and forth across the shim a few times by rotating the engine back and forth this makes sure the shim is seated properly before taking measurements.

 

[ryancdossey]

Good to know. How do I get the oil out of up there? Just using the drain plug didn't seem to do it.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Are you asking about slight oil pooled in the heads?
Yes?
Don't worry about it, or just mop it up with clean rags.
Pulling the filter isn't going to do anything for that.

I wasn't aware the manual even told us to drain the oil at all unless pulling a side over for some reason.

 

[maleko89]

After removing the plug caps (but before loosening the spark plugs) be sure to blow compressed air into the plug wells....otherwise any water or small pebbles will end up inside your motor.

+1. There are drain holes between the fins....spray compressed air in there.

 

[ryancdossey]

Good to know. I don't have a center stand so the left side is pooled up.

 

[ryancdossey]

This is my first time doing valves. As far as deciding what was a "measurement" I applied enough pressure to get the gauge in but not so much that I was forcing or almost bending the feeler. Not too little that it slid right out.

Did I label intake/exhaust properly?


From looking at the sheet....


.11-.15 for intake can be left alone.

.16-.20 for exhaust can be left alone.


so for exhaust all of my .203's are on the tight side but still okay? Service manual says to round down. Unless the hundredth digit is a 6 or higher.

I don't have the socket to remove the spark plugs so I just turned the arrowed direction only on the flywheel bolt. (no harm there I hope?)

I bought an 18mm deep socket but it won't fit down the chamber. Is there somewhere where I can buy the vmax design socket? (I plan on swapping them out once I get it all back together. :confused2:


It looks like all of my intakes need to be swapped is that correct?

and shim #1 is the only one that is really ideal.


Am I correct in the observation that intake specs tighten over time while the exhaust expands? :ummm: