VMAX 1200 radiator fan performance?

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rob_fer

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Mar 21, 2023
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Hi team,
First of all happy and successful new year to all!! 🍻🍻
I got mounted an aluminium radiator. and I'm planning to swtich the radiator with a more efficient one. Does anybody know the EOM CFM performance?
I will be helpfull to chose the new one.
thanks in advance to all for your help.
Regards.

Rob.
 
When you say 'more efficient' why do you need that assuming that the one you have is not blocked or furred up?
What is the size of the one fitted to compared with the OE rad. 'More efficient' would imply 'bigger' so the dimensions of what you have would be helpful
IMO the OE rad in good condition is more than up to the job particularly in northern Europe.
 
HI,
thanks for your attention. Actually, we all know that motor cooling system is not the best VMAX quality. I frequenlty see temperature level is HIGH and even with fan running it takes long time to go down.
When I say more efficient I mean that it blows more air quantity (CFM).
Regards.
Rob.
 
Agree with Mr Hammer that a correctly functioning Max cooling system works well.
Problems occur when maintainance schedules are ignored and the antifreeze/ corrosion inhibitor isn't changed at the recommended time.
This allows the radiator to clog up which reduces water flow and can lead to the symptoms you describe.

Whilst I wouldn't recommend removing the t.stat it would be prudent to check that this is working as intended.

If your radiator is blocked, which can be established by feeling for cold areas as the engine heats up, and this can't be cleared then a rad specialist would be able to replace the core which will give you a good functioning system.
 
Thank you all for your feedback.
I have just replaced the water pump and set an aluminium radiator, indeed full coolant has been replaced. I'll check how it runs like that.
I'm anyway keep wondering about that upgrade. :)
Regards.
 
I put in a thermostat from 1988 Nissan Pulsar NX which triggers the rad fan ~1/2 up the gauge instead of OEM 2/3rd mark and that seems to 'get in front' of the heat build up. If I idle a long time on a hot day it will build...but the moment I start moving it's fine; of course if I know I'll be stuck somewhere for a while i.e. caught at a train crossing....I just shut the engine off.

Anything else indicates a defective OEM coolant system or some engine problem.

Never needed to swap the rad in any of my 3 Gen1 Max's...including the one that was modified.
 
My fans kick in at half way up too, right on that barely visible small dot on the dial. Normal operating temp 1/3 on the dial. I also have a manual override switch but it has been as a backup only. Never needed it as of today. Fan temp switch swapped for earlier engagement too.
 
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