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I'm at .030. Not sure if it's better or worse. V-boost is always on. It pulls hard. But I'd like more.
Dyno results are always welcome. And I'm appreciative of any info posted by all of you. I know we can all get along here.
 
I'm at .030. Not sure if it's better or worse. V-boost is always on. It pulls hard. But I'd like more.
Dyno results are always welcome. And I'm appreciative of any info posted by all of you. I know we can all get along here.

I'm at .035 right now. When I went to .040 I had a drop in mileage, and a change in A/F at the dyno. The next time I dyno, I'm gonna swap to .030, just to see what happens.
 
Sorry Steve-o but both of these guys sent pretty nasty PM letters to my brother in law and I do not appreciate it.
I have tested and sold over 100 sets of cops on this site, facebook, in the UK and many other sites.
Sold sets in France, Germany, Mexico, Canada, Portugal, Italy, Japan, Indonesia,Russia,ect ect ect.
I have given many members on this site buying my cops very good deals to help improve their hot starts and dead spots due to worn out stock coils. Not one bad review.
Traumahawk can speak out on every post i reply on so I will feel free myself.
 
Have you always had cops with the ignitech or have you run them with the stock ignition as well?


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I ran them with the stock ignition as well. They were on when I dyno'd at topeka, and then here. Between the 2 sets of runs there was only a 1.5 hp difference, so the dynos were accurate. I even had cops and the stock ignition system when I dynod here, with the kerker 4-1 on. I didnt swap to the ignitech until a few months later.
 
What are the advantages of the ignitech? Is it worth the money for the upgrade?


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I for one like it. The ignitech originally came from the Czech republic and originally was never designed for the Vmax. Dingy, basically got a hold of one, and input all of the settings himself to get it to work with the Vmax. Heck, in the beginning it wasnt even designed to run Vboost. There are several old threads on here, where people took the leap, and then modifications were done to bake it control the Vboost as well.

One question that Ive always had, I wonder if the Ignitech could run a knock sensor as well? I sent Dingy several likely candidates. After I spoke with him, he didnt think the Ignitech could work with the knock sensor to retard the time, until the knock went away, but he did think the knock sensor could alert the ignitech, and the retard the timing a certain number of degrees to get it out of the danger zone.

Basically you can put any timing map into it that you want to, and you can have it open the Vboost at any RPM, open what percentage you want, and close at what rpm you want.

You can also have the dwell set on automatic, so it will determine when best to fire. Ive always wondered if I could an increase of the COPS secondary voltage that way.
 
Not difficult at all. You do need a laptop. When you get the ignitech, there is a .exe program with it, that will allow the interface, and then you have several tabs that you can go to, for several screens. Ive had the lap top AT the dyno with it hooked up to the laptop, that way I could look at the IAP (atmospheric pressure) readings, that way when I programmed the throttle for 0 thru 100% I knew that the program was doing.

I'm very fortunate that I live about 2 miles from a dyno, and they charge a flat fee per hour. I'm also fortunate that the dyno operator is all about hp. In the last 2 years I probably have 80 dyno runs on the bike. Plus some of those sessions were 2-3 hrs long, that way i could just play. How can you say something works, or doesnt work, or is not put on the dyno, and proven?
 
Yep. There was one session last year, that I did 2 jet changes, and 3 needle changes all on the dyno. Stage 7, Factory pros, and even stage 1's all in the same session. The slides also got drilled between runs.
 
The 4400's I have on mine seen to open V-boost later as well.

Does anyone know what the difference is with the 4510's so that V-boost operates normally?

This is purely speculation...but I have wondered if the V-boost opening late, is due to the COP being wired "backward"? On the 2 wire COPS you have a 12 volt ignition wire, and then a pulsed ground. So at 6000 rpm, each wire should pulse 1500 times a minute. (4 cylinders/ 6000 rpm).

On a car with a single coil, they would still run if you wired them up backward, but you wouldnt get the spark energy, and points would burn out quickly.

So....if the COP was wired up backward, and the Vboost couldnt "see" the pulses (rpms) for that cylinder....by the time that the Vboost could see the pules due to additional RPM that would put you at 7000-7500 (which is where some people will say that their Vboost comes in at after COPS were installed).

Again, purely speculation.
 
The 4400's I have on mine seen to open V-boost later as well.

Does anyone know what the difference is with the 4510's so that V-boost operates normally?
129700-4400 come off of suzuki gsxr 750's & 1000's and are 1.5 ohm. The 129700-4510's are from honda cbr 600's and are the same 1.5 ohm.
The 129700-4150's are from gsxr 600's and are 1.3 ohm.
The 129700-4800's are from suzuki gsxr 750's and are 1.5 ohm.
You are first I've heard that has a 4400 opening later.
I have heard the 129700-4150's are the ones that make the vboost open late because of the 1.3 ohms.
Maybe this will help----
http://www.aa1car.com/library/copign.htm
 
Don't want to light the fire but I strongly believe that gap depends on whether you are running resistors or not as the current will be different to leap the gap. I would assume the gap should be bigger if you have a higher current on the secondary. My 2 cents
 
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