VMax Journey Continues....

[hubeerjw]

o.k. I found a few more things, but I doubt it is the problem....
1. The neutral switch wire was hitting the exhaust and melted through the insulation... may cause a short, or may cause the neutral light to come on when it is in gear - easy fix

2. There is an exhaust leak (tick) on the left rear cylinder, I took the covers off and saw someone had tried to weld/fix it.

3. There were some fueses in the wrong location / wrong amperage

4. I need to do some more digging on the R/R

5. The intake boots need tweaking a little to seat properly, though I'm pretty sure they are sealed right now.

6. The fan got into the protective cover, but doesn't look like much damage
the fan turns freely, but has some slight damage to the blades.

Check out the pics and let me know what you all think:

 

[Heretic]

I have the rear factory down pipes I can send out, very good shape. Just give me an address.

 

[Thevmaxrider]

Without knowing exactly what the amperage rating is of the non-standard fuses I am beginning to get a feeling that there is an electrical problem with this bike. Th inkling I am getting is that the prior owner had fuses blowing and instead of finding the problem and fixing it he just kept putting bigger fuses in until they held. It would seem to me that a complete electrical system check would be in order here.

 

[naughtyG]

I concur with Jim and suggest a thorough examination of the electrics, looking for dodgy add-ons and baby mice bites!!

 

[kozy]

with it being 20 degrees out, putting this bike in real life riding situations is going to be a little tricky.

Who cares about a little cold!!!! I live about an hour from Abe and I was just out riding last week! I'll come out there and test-ride it in the cold for ya!

 

[jedi-]

Without knowing exactly what the amperage rating is of the non-standard fuses I am beginning to get a feeling that there is an electrical problem with this bike. Th inkling I am getting is that the prior owner had fuses blowing and instead of finding the problem and fixing it he just kept putting bigger fuses in until they held. It would seem to me that a complete electrical system check would be in order here.

Agreed, I wonder if the wiring is a bit dodgy. The neutral wire is an example, wonder what the sidestand switch or run switch wiring and connections are like?
No doubt with the amount of talent here, you'll soon get it sorted out.:eusa_dance:

 

[82ndCowboy]

ou might want to fix one thing at a time and ride it. That way you'll know for sure what the problem was.
Otherwise your going to be left guessing what actually fixed the high rpm missing problem.

...just a thought

 

[gamorg02]

ou might want to fix one thing at a time and ride it. That way you'll know for sure what the problem was.
Otherwise your going to be left guessing what actually fixed the high rpm missing problem.

...just a thought

definitely.. esp if it has a chance of being a re-occuring issue if you've just fixed the overlying problem. say a wire keeps getting burned out b/c a cover is missing so it keeps melting thru. u fix the wire and 10 other things it works u never knwo what to do again when it breaks..


+1 to that 82

 

[HDKILA]

First off I wanted to say THANKS AGAIN to Jeff for taking my bike in. There are not too many people out there that would do this type of favor.

I also wanted to say thanks for already digging into the monster. It would seem that you already have found a few little niggles that i didn't.

The leaky header would explain the bike smelling like gas all the time? And me everytime I rode it...

I saw that 4gasm was talking about forks. I think that is another area of my bike that may be of concern. My forks would lose all there air in less than two weeks. Could this be leaky original seals?

Anyways as I discussed with you today I would like for you to go through as much of this animal as much as you can and rec'd EVERYTHING you think it needs. If you compile this list I have absolutely no problem sending a check for parts and labor immediatly and don't forget that once she is running right I am very interested in the Nitrous kit you have:biglaugh:

I am also interested in your suggestion for the Kerker pipes and Morley Muscle kit.

Thanks again Jeff. You are a standup guy for doing this and I look forward to the day that I pick this animal up!

BTW nice freaking garage! You have enuff Vmax parts in there to build at least 5-6 bikes! You are a true enthusiast!

Abe

 

[hubeerjw]

Well so far, the only thing I have really done was clean the engine kill switch on the handle bars (as I have heard this can be a problem area). The switch itself didn't look too bad, but I cleaned up the contact areas and put it back together. I have not tried to start the bike since the airbox was still off, and I have a few wires loose from doing a voltage drain test. Maybe tomorrow I'll fire it back up and see what I get.

Here is what I am proposing we do. I'll sell you my 02 (since the nitrous is already on it) and I'll take your 85 as a partial trade. Problems solved... You have a newer bike with some upgrades!

Really, I think we should drop the motor. While it is out we can put in the solid motor mounts, do a coolant flush, adjust your valves, maybe do the Double 'D' clutch mod (you know what mine felt like so you be the judge) There is also the heavy duty clutch spring that is like 1.5 times stock (the DD would be 2 times). We could also put in new exhaust gaskets at that time as well.

I would also recommend a good exhaust system to go with any carb setup. I believe Morley may have a couple of good options that will enable you to keep your center stand. You could also sell your supertrapps to offset some of this cost.

We are planning on replacing your steering bearings and I will be going through the electrical system on it.

Some other upgrades you may want to consider are:

Front fork springs, USD front end - Morley may have a few options, Busa calipers and adapters, larger front rotors
Drag Bars
Rear tail light (cateye) maybe an integrated tail light / turn signals
New Grips
Manual Cooling Fan switch

One other thing that I noticed is that your ignition (key) switch seems very slopy and maybe that is causing some intermetant shorts at certain frequencies or RPMs... just another thing to look at.

Abe, start to think about a budget and I'll try to start throwing some $$ estimates for parts for some of these mods.

Later,

Jeff

 

[HDKILA]

Well so far, the only thing I have really done was clean the engine kill switch on the handle bars (as I have heard this can be a problem area). The switch itself didn't look too bad, but I cleaned up the contact areas and put it back together. I have not tried to start the bike since the airbox was still off, and I have a few wires loose from doing a voltage drain test. Maybe tomorrow I'll fire it back up and see what I get.

Here is what I am proposing we do. I'll sell you my 02 (since the nitrous is already on it) and I'll take your 85 as a partial trade. Problems solved... You have a newer bike with some upgrades!

Really, I think we should drop the motor. While it is out we can put in the solid motor mounts, do a coolant flush, adjust your valves, maybe do the Double 'D' clutch mod (you know what mine felt like so you be the judge) There is also the heavy duty clutch spring that is like 1.5 times stock (the DD would be 2 times). We could also put in new exhaust gaskets at that time as well.

I would also recommend a good exhaust system to go with any carb setup. I believe Morley may have a couple of good options that will enable you to keep your center stand. You could also sell your supertrapps to offset some of this cost.

We are planning on replacing your steering bearings and I will be going through the electrical system on it.

Some other upgrades you may want to consider are:

Front fork springs, USD front end - Morley may have a few options, Busa calipers and adapters, larger front rotors
Drag Bars
Rear tail light (cateye) maybe an integrated tail light / turn signals
New Grips
Manual Cooling Fan switch

One other thing that I noticed is that your ignition (key) switch seems very slopy and maybe that is causing some intermetant shorts at certain frequencies or RPMs... just another thing to look at.

Abe, start to think about a budget and I'll try to start throwing some $$ estimates for parts for some of these mods.

Later,

Jeff

Jeff,

At this point I would like to budget around 1500. If I have to go higher I will. Let me know if think that is a realistic number. If you have to pull the motor I have no issues with that.

My main goal are to get the bike running right, valves adjusted, steering head bearing, fork seals and a good electrical system.

After those problems are solved I would say the morley muscle kit with an upgraded exhaust, better brakes, double clutch and of course the nitrous.

Will 1500 cover that? Like I said if not let me know a ballpark figure...

And btw...why don't you just take my bike and give me your 02? we can work something out can't we? LOL! But seriously I would consider something like that. I just want a good running max!:eusa_dance:

 

[one2dmax]

A loose key can cause a few intermittent problems and we have seen this once before. Not necessarily the cause of the problem but something to keep in mind and maybe swap for a test.

Add another zero to your figure and we'll give you back a monster lol!

Seriously, the $1500 is going to be a bit low for all of the stuff you are asking for. I will let Jeff start pricing you what he can and list what I have available (he may be able to do better on some stuff). Don't forget some of this stuff will have shipping on it. I may still make a drive up there and can bring some of this stuff. It would be better if the bike was running well by then so we aren't trying to tune and diagnose at the same time.

Induction:
Muscle Jet Kit - $220 with exchange of your airbox lid (don't expect this to cure the problem)

Exhaust:

Exhaust Gaskets - Jeff can get these (the current problem is likely not the head to exhaust gaskets but probably the dougnut gasket between the rear adapter and pipe).

1 - New Kerker - $750 for chrome, $725 for coated (centerstand and tabs have to be cut off).

2 - I have one used kerker (soon will have another one) - $600 (but would include a custom high flow Kerker carbon fiber muffler and fresh jet hot coating of you choice)

3 - I have 2 used old style 4-1 hindles. These made about the best power of any header but have been discontinued since they had ground clearance issues. They are also one of the best sounding headers out there too. They do also allow the centerstand to be retained. Both of the headers I have are damaged from crashes but we can repair them easily enough. They would run $800 repaired with fresh jet hot coating of your choice so they would look like new. I should be able to come up with a nice muffler for either too.

4 - I have one used 4-2 and not 100% sure which type it is (I think it is a holeshot). Same story with this one. Looking at $800 ready to go on it too.

5 - $200 trade in credit on your supertrapps if towards one of the used systems.

Chassis:
Solid Mounts - $80 (Jeff might be able to get a set for less)

Raked Frame?? Same as Jeffs and if your engines is out you are halfway there on the swap. Still a lot of labor time to move everything over. This would blow your budget too but it would definetly look good. The current USD offering we have would not work well with that much rake (bike would sit too low). We may have another USD offering soon that is even better deal.

Handlebars - $25 (various offerings)

Swingarm bracing (notched and even options for extending). $300 braced, notched and coated. $600 for extended, braced, notched and coated but you would still need the shaft (which I may be able to provide probably looking at $200+).

Steering Head Bearings (Jeff can get those as cheap as I can).

Wheels/Tires/Ect - the list can go on and on - we have a few wheel selections too like Carrozzerias, RC Comp, EgoTripp (maker of UFO's maxdaddy)).
Chrome
Coatings (is your head spinning yet)

Brakes:

1 - 6 piston Huyabusa setup
Caliper Adapters - $30
Used Rotors $100 (pair)
Used Calipers - none on hand

2 - 4 piston GSXR setup
Caliper Adapters - $30
No rotors needed
Used Calipers - $75 plus needs new pads

Engine:
OEM Clutch Spring - $50 (Jeff may be able to save a few bucks here)
HD oiling system - $100
Valve Adjustment - N/C to use my kit since Jeff currently has it at his place. Jeff - Note we do have a request to borrow it for another member. Jeff will have to tell you how many beers to do the work.
1300 conversion (would really blow the budget). Of course even up to 1500+ cc's (no we aren't even talking about a budget).


Sorry if this overwelms you but this gives you a lot of options. We could even split the cases and install overdrive transmissions and other parts. I didn't even bother pricing any of that on here but would gladly do so if you wanted.

Sean Morley

 

[maleko89]

Jeff, I would pull the switch and inpect that including the three wires. That'll cause a high rpm miss. Been there.

 

[one2dmax]

Oh yea, don't forget about:

We can get silicon hose sets

AND

HEL braided brake/clutch line kits (about 20 colors of line and 8 or so colors of ends).

Of course if you don't see what you wanted listed let me know and if I am not setup as a vendor for that company I will setup with them.

Sean

 

[4gasem]

Maybe bypass the key for testing purposes.

I probably have stock exhaust gaskets in my basement somewhere. I have a stock system too but decided not to part it out for fear that more and more states adopt the exhaust regs.

I'd say to get you started you should do the following.

Get it running right is #1 and then...

New fork springs. Racetech or Progressive with new Yamaha seals and some 15wt oil.

Maybe a set of rear shocks as the stockers HAVE to be crap by now.

Then what ever you have left gets spent on extras.

If you tidy up the suspension on these things it makes the bike a whole other animal.

Stock brakes are crap but if they work then maybe put that off till later...

Chris

 

[gamorg02]

the mods sound nice.. but i'd hold off until ur 100% sure you've fixed the issue and any underlying causes or effects... never know what it might be and before u spend $1500 on mods thinking it will only be a hundred to fix and it turns out being a lot more....

just my $.02 in this economy...

 

[one2dmax]

Oh yes, forgot about the suspension since it doesn't make much difference the way I ride. We do however sell Progressive stuff too and for those that ride sanely they can be a big help.

Jeff can probably take the ignition off of one of his bikes to test with.

Sean

 

[Redbone]

Maybe bypass the key for testing purposes.

I probably have stock exhaust gaskets in my basement somewhere. I have a stock system too but decided not to part it out for fear that more and more states adopt the exhaust regs.

I'd say to get you started you should do the following.

Get it running right is #1 and then...

New fork springs. Racetech or Progressive with new Yamaha seals and some 15wt oil.

Maybe a set of rear shocks as the stockers HAVE to be crap by now.

Then what ever you have left gets spent on extras.

If you tidy up the suspension on these things it makes the bike a whole other animal.

Stock brakes are crap but if they work then maybe put that off till later...

Chris

++ to lowering the front suspension and 15 wt fork oil! I went the Progressive route and lowered the front end 2" and 15wt fork oil. What a difference! I also added drag bars but did not lower the back shocks yet. It alsop made the riding position more comfortable, but adding Sean's seat had a lot to do with that too. It handles much better with a little more weight bias on the front.
I would say to find the problem first and then see where you are at then. I wish i could join up with you guys and help out in getting it running. Even if just for going for beers and handing wrenchs when needed.
Damn cold *** and long winters here in the snowy, ice covered and below 10 degrees for the last month U.P. of Michigan! It is pretty though....:confused2:

 

[hubeerjw]

I think you guys are right on. I really think it is an electrical problem. I am going to put the air box back on and get it running. We'll see if the kill switch was the issue, but I doubt it was. The next thing I will do is mess with the key/ignition switch. I can use my 85 or even my 02 and see if that helps. I'm thinking Kloker may be right about this (I really hope so!) I'll have to bundle up and take her for a ride. 16 F though.... not the best riding conditions!

 

[KJShover]

I'll have to bundle up and take her for a ride. 16 F though.... not the best riding conditions!

You can do it Jeff, I was riding to work last spring in 15-20deg temps with snow on the ground. :snow:

All you have to do is just make sure your digits are warm. Good gloves, 2 pair of socks. Also you could pop a couple three hot pockets in the microwave then put one in each rear pocket and shove one in your jock, that should keep ya toasty :angry flame devil::biglaugh: