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caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
I'll try 1st clip. I work through the 8th so I'll have to try it when I get back. I'll update then.
I'm not to surprised by a richness there given the stage 7 needles are thin enough for acupuncture and the slides are drilled. It really increased the WOT stumble but it also increased the usable power under normal riding. I have one more clip position to go so I'll see where that lands me. Thanks again for the assist.
I'm not to surprised by a richness there given the stage 7 needles are thin enough for acupuncture and the slides are drilled. It really increased the WOT stumble but it also increased the usable power under normal riding. I have one more clip position to go so I'll see where that lands me. Thanks again for the assist.
caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
How does that jive with drilled slides?
This is what I found on the internet. You can run soft (stage 7 springs) with undrilled slides, but if you have drill slides you HAVE to run the soft springs. With the stock springs they will fight the slides. The drilled slides want to come open quicker, and the stock springs will try to keep them closed, and that will cause a stutter......which is why drilled slides get a bad rap.
caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
Ok, so I went down to the first (leanest) clip but then I had to go to work so didnt get to try it out for over a week. I jumped on and went for a spin and it was very soft and queefy off idle and around 3-4k it felt like it was running out of fuel, like right before you have to switch to reserve. I did the pea shooter and dicked around with the AF and got some improvement. Dropped a cup of seafoam in the fuel and went for a ride today and I think I'm going to have a start heading back up towards the 2nd clip.
Looking at the shims at 010, 020 and 030 it looks like the 030 is bigger than a clip position. It looks like the clips are around .020 apart.
Am I trippen or do I really need to use a 020 on a stage 7 needle to move it only half a position? It just looks to big.
caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
Last update on this thread.
I took it off the 1st clip and added a .020 to get to 1.5 clip position, road tested and only slight improvement with some pissing about with AF screws on the road, but shes still sick. Went home and put the 030 shim in. The sucky part is my driveway is 3 miles of washed out dirt and rocks so it's a process just to get to the pavement. Anyways, took her for a spin and did a few WOT bursts to get up to speed and she was very strong but then started missing terribly like out of fuel, I couldnt work it out with the AF screws so I gimped her home, she was hurting. I knew this was something other than needle positions.
Once home running on maybe 2 cyls, cutting and out I decided to pull the air box lid and look into the throat and found the two slides on the right side bound open. I removed them and made sure that the needles were all flat in there with the little white tit in the holes, they all were so I removed the needles, then the slides were free moving as normal. There was no dirt or debris and everything sat flat. so I removed and replaced the needles until they sat fairly straight and did not bind. I still cant figure out what caused them to bind but they are back in and working as they should, road test and it was still hunting a little at 3000-3500 and I was able to dial that out by backing out the AF screws a bit. Now she flat out rips again from idle on up. I'm not sure how much of the struggle with it on the 1st clip was clip position or sticky slides but shes back to running strong from idle to redline. If my MPG is much down from ~40 I may go put the needles back in with the .010 increments but if MPG is still good I'm done effing around with it until I get the sniffer. I have the AF screws out 3.5 - 4 turns and it's running very well again.
If anyone knows what would make a needle sit crooked and cause slides to bind when the needles, washers and everything are seated correctly and perfectly clean, please enlighten. I just took them out and messed with them until they sat straight but still not exactly sure what the deal was.
I took it off the 1st clip and added a .020 to get to 1.5 clip position, road tested and only slight improvement with some pissing about with AF screws on the road, but shes still sick. Went home and put the 030 shim in. The sucky part is my driveway is 3 miles of washed out dirt and rocks so it's a process just to get to the pavement. Anyways, took her for a spin and did a few WOT bursts to get up to speed and she was very strong but then started missing terribly like out of fuel, I couldnt work it out with the AF screws so I gimped her home, she was hurting. I knew this was something other than needle positions.
Once home running on maybe 2 cyls, cutting and out I decided to pull the air box lid and look into the throat and found the two slides on the right side bound open. I removed them and made sure that the needles were all flat in there with the little white tit in the holes, they all were so I removed the needles, then the slides were free moving as normal. There was no dirt or debris and everything sat flat. so I removed and replaced the needles until they sat fairly straight and did not bind. I still cant figure out what caused them to bind but they are back in and working as they should, road test and it was still hunting a little at 3000-3500 and I was able to dial that out by backing out the AF screws a bit. Now she flat out rips again from idle on up. I'm not sure how much of the struggle with it on the 1st clip was clip position or sticky slides but shes back to running strong from idle to redline. If my MPG is much down from ~40 I may go put the needles back in with the .010 increments but if MPG is still good I'm done effing around with it until I get the sniffer. I have the AF screws out 3.5 - 4 turns and it's running very well again.
If anyone knows what would make a needle sit crooked and cause slides to bind when the needles, washers and everything are seated correctly and perfectly clean, please enlighten. I just took them out and messed with them until they sat straight but still not exactly sure what the deal was.
blaxmax
Well-Known Member
Stock springs in the carbs? Sometimes if you shorten them or put shorter ones in they can and will "float" because the pressure is released on them. It could also be a bent needle.
caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
I drilled the slides so I put the stage 1/7 back in. The needles are new stage 7 and I have been treating them as if they were blown from molten glass. I thought it would be something between but they are clean and seated. Unless the shims are not quite flat. I'll have to find a decent mic and see if maybe thats it.
I could feel them binding a little if I slid them in/out with my thumb but I dont recall them being stiff going in. I started to winder if I got the slides in the wrong carbs but w/o needles they were free moving, with that white retaining screw just snug I could see that sometimes they wanted to lean one way a slight bit I R&R them until they sat straight but still not sure whats really going on.
caseyjones955
Well-Known Member
I lied, last update for real this time.
I was able to get the needles to sit right by removing/reinstalling, not sure why but they get really funky unless that plastic white screw is just barely snug. Here is where I am now.
Main jets 150, st 7 needles (1-3/4 clip from blunt end) and stage 1/7 springs on drilled slides. Morleys air box lid with the air correctors. I started today with the AF screws out 3.5 and 4 in the rear to cover up a little 3-4k hunting/sputtering during cruise and make it run nice and sweet. I was able to run the screws in incrementally today and I'm sitting at around 3 and 3.5 respectively. I put 55 miles on today and threw in fuel when I got home. It's not exact but looks like I'm around 40 mpg. I'll get a better idea at the pump. But its brutal from the basement on up with no nonsense. Still no 2500 in 5th success but in 2nd and 3rd it launches decently and pulls hard through mid to redline. I think I'm done until I get the sniffer, its just running awesome and MPG seems very good. Until I can make a science of it I'm just not sure how much more I can do, its awesome. Done. Time to ride and enjoy!
Oh yes, THANKS to everyone that helped!!
EDIT. 39.2 mpg in mixed condition riding.
I was able to get the needles to sit right by removing/reinstalling, not sure why but they get really funky unless that plastic white screw is just barely snug. Here is where I am now.
Main jets 150, st 7 needles (1-3/4 clip from blunt end) and stage 1/7 springs on drilled slides. Morleys air box lid with the air correctors. I started today with the AF screws out 3.5 and 4 in the rear to cover up a little 3-4k hunting/sputtering during cruise and make it run nice and sweet. I was able to run the screws in incrementally today and I'm sitting at around 3 and 3.5 respectively. I put 55 miles on today and threw in fuel when I got home. It's not exact but looks like I'm around 40 mpg. I'll get a better idea at the pump. But its brutal from the basement on up with no nonsense. Still no 2500 in 5th success but in 2nd and 3rd it launches decently and pulls hard through mid to redline. I think I'm done until I get the sniffer, its just running awesome and MPG seems very good. Until I can make a science of it I'm just not sure how much more I can do, its awesome. Done. Time to ride and enjoy!
Oh yes, THANKS to everyone that helped!!
EDIT. 39.2 mpg in mixed condition riding.
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