Vmax running rough at steady throttle

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OK, here's a picture with the wye removed:

2015-05-142016.55.06_zpslcqqkyh4.jpg


It's not nearly as filthy as it looks in the picture. I don't know why the little bit of dust stands out like that! The filter is not anywhere near ready to be recharged.
 
OK, I received and installed the new AirBox Cover yesterday. I compared it to the one I had, and it appears that the only difference is a tiny amount of trimming at the back of the opening; more radiusing than trimming. The rough running persists.

I'll ask someone at Thunder to ride it and tell me what they think. I constantly question myself as to whether, perhaps, this is how they all run and I am making something out of nothing. Once I get a more definitive answer I can decide what my next step should be.

I also want to remove the switch that shuts off VBoost that the PO installed. I imagine that removing the crimp connectors and soldering all of the connections to return it to stock can only help things.
 
So question.....did you ever adjust the needles.....and now I also wonder what your main jet, and PAJ#2 are?

Yes, we went one setting leaner when John worked on it a few weeks ago.


Something else after reading some of this. You might want to check the sync tube caps. A crack or one missing can make it run rough. I just replaced the three and the 2" of vacuum comming of the #2 cylinder..

I'm not sure I even know what they are! :ummm:

EDIT: OK, obviously they cover the tubes where you connect a synch tool. I'll look for and at them. Or spray them with carb cleaner while it's running.
 
It has gotten worse. Now feels like it's only running on 3 cylinders. I am, however, pretty certain that it is an electrical issue now, and not fuel. Messing around with the plug wires seemed to help briefly, but it did not last. New plugs and wires. Maybe a bad wire, but I doubt it. (Copper wire core)

I have 3 days to fix it, or I'll have to bring the Suzuki to Thunder.
 
It has gotten worse. Now feels like it's only running on 3 cylinders. I am, however, pretty certain that it is an electrical issue now, and not fuel. Messing around with the plug wires seemed to help briefly, but it did not last. New plugs and wires. Maybe a bad wire, but I doubt it. (Copper wire core)

I have 3 days to fix it, or I'll have to bring the Suzuki to Thunder.

If you touch all the sides of the cylinder the one that is cold would be the one with the least fire-
You can use a multimeter to check your coils and plug wires inside the boots.
I use one of these after syncing the carbs to get all cylinders the same temp after 10 mins of running.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etekcity-No...273?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e9899881
 
I just saw the photos of your airbox for the first time and i think you have one of the 4 hoses going from the carbs to the airbox pinched. I took mine off completely because once i got one pinched and it ran like crap- took them off and immediately made a difference.
 
Well what the hell---- It worked for a while but then when i hit control shift "c" again
Then this thing worked almost as good------my bad.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etekcity-No...273?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e9899881

Gimmie a break- it's father day and i'm never married and got no kids and drunk.:bang head:
:rofl_200: I figured it was a simple mistake!
I'm going to stop by Harbor freight after work - they probably have one that's inexpensive too. Thanks for the idea!

EDIT: http://www.harborfreight.com/infrared-thermometer-93984.html



Ha-ha, yes! (My dog thought that was pretty funny, too!)
 
Well, I opted for a more expensive model of the temperature gauge. It worked perfectly. I found that the right rear cylinder was not firing. (I thought for sure it was the left rear.) I had apparently cut the plug wire a bit too short when I replaced them. Fortunately, I had a little wire left and cut it a bit longer, and...

VOILA!

I do believe that was the problem! I took it for a short ride, and it's MUCH more responsive. It does not sound like it's missing anymore. I won't be able to take it for a longer ride until Wednesday (weather permitting) but I think I am good to go.

Now, can anyone explain why my right front cylinder seems to be running about 10 degrees hotter than the other three?
 
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