Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Replacement

[Bill Seward]

Opening the circuits from the stator phases. Don't know exactly how it is done electrically, but it does not shunt to ground. In effect, shunting to ground is like a dead short. Makes lots of heat..

SH734 is the Series version of the MOSFET unit.

 

[Bill Seward]

Here's another link: Lvlhead's Vmax - The Splice

The fuse block he's holding is the main fuse (sub fuse). There's a grommet around the main fuse box and you should see that mounted on a tang that's part of the coil bracket. It's near upper left of battery. The blue wire is bypassing that and the splice. On the main fuse, one wire goes to the battery and other goes to splice. Disconnect the R/R red wire connector and hook your voltmeter up to the R/R side. Start bike and measure the voltage coming out at idle. That is your potential charging voltage. Measuring again at the battery with the R/R connected again shows how much voltage you're losing between the R/R, crimp, main fuse, to battery.

If you wire the outputs + and - of your regulator directly to battery no matter if shunt, series, or MOSFET the crimp fix is redundant and IMHO, unneeded.

 

[VMAXXIMUM]

Opening the circuits from the stator phases. Don't know exactly how it is done electrically, but it does not shunt to ground. In effect, shunting to ground is like a dead short. Makes lots of heat..

Thank you bill.