Water Temp Sensor Mod

[jimvette999]

You can get a fan switch like I have on ebay for $ 58.65.

Thanks... I understood you to have a OEM fan sensor. I did too but it seemed to migrate to higher sending trip point with age. There's no guarantee that if I bought OEM switch, my bike would behave like yours. You're also in PA vs FL fwiw. I think my plan will suit/meet my objective of overcomplicating a simple process.

 

[Dorney]

Thanks... I understood you to have a OEM fan sensor. I did too but it seemed to migrate to higher sending trip point with age. There's no guarantee that if I bought OEM switch, my bike would behave like yours. You're also in PA vs FL fwiw. I think my plan will suit/meet my objective of overcomplicating a simple process.

The switch that I listed is aftermarket & is made to run with a 180 thermostat.

 

[jimvette999]

The switch that I listed is aftermarket & is made to run with a 180 thermostat.

Oh, I missed that, my apologies. Please provide a link or a part number? Thank you.

 

[Dorney]

Oh, I missed that, my apologies. Please provide a link or a part number? Thank you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-Vma...024815&hash=item3af572b909:g:xnwAAOSw3fZZ8Kxu

 

[jimvette999]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-Vmax-V-Max-Lower-Temperature-Radiator-Cooling-Thermal-Fan-Switch-VMX1200/253226039561?fits=Make:Yamaha&epid=21008024815&hash=item3af572b909:g:xnwAAOSw3fZZ8Kxu

Thanks...had no idea that existed even after reading many forum threads. Pricey but if it solves a problem, worth it.

 

[jimvette999]

When ever you lower the fan switch you need to lower the thermostat to go with it or else the fan will run all the time.

So.... in trying to understand the steps you took, you changed the thermostat and the fan switch?? I gathered from your post so far that you only changed the fan switch yet in this post you say you need to change both to get the right results. Please clarify or send a link to your post from the past where you explained this. Thanks for your time/trouble.
Jim

 

[Dorney]

So.... in trying to understand the steps you took, you changed the thermostat and the fan switch?? I gathered from your post so far that you only changed the fan switch yet in this post you say you need to change both to get the right results. Please clarify or send a link to your post from the past where you explained this. Thanks for your time/trouble.
Jim

If you go ack threw these posts you'll read it. But all you need is a 180 thermostat & that fan switch & your all set.

 

[Nativerhythm76]

If you go ack threw these posts you'll read it. But all you need is a 180 thermostat & that fan switch & your all set.

Would you happen to have a source/part number for the 180 degree thermostat you used?
Thanks.....

 

[Dorney]

Would you happen to have a source/part number for the 180 degree thermostat you used?
Thanks.....

I'm sorry looking at it I used a 170 thermostat Stant 48368.

 

[jimvette999]

I asked the seller of the switch forum member Dorney linked and here's what he said for those interested.
"This fan switch turns on at 95° C and turns off at 90° C."
which equates to 194* F and 203* F

 

[Dorney]

I asked the seller of the switch forum member Dorney linked and here's what he said for those interested.
"This fan switch turns on at 95° C and turns off at 90° C."
which equates to 194* F and 203* F

I'm pretty sure those numbers are not right. The high sided may be 194 & that mite be high.

 

[jimvette999]

Well, I was reluctant to drop the $58 on that switch plus the cost of 170* thermostat mentioned by member Dorney although that is a very clean/smart solution.
For anyone interested, I decided to go with the low pressure (easy to actuate) micro switch I mentioned earlier. I made a sail switch to interrupt the fan power anytime the bike is moving 20 mph or more (unless my separate over-ride switch is on). I hit my shroud 20+ years ago on something I don't even remember. I patched it up so ignore the brackets that hold shroud to radiator.
This is a bearing from a router bit, the smaller variety. The metal bent/wrapped around the bearing is the SS insert found in wiper blades. So I formed it into a lever. The two were JB Welded together. I used the stud that Yamaha used to retain the screen as pivot point and screw attachment hole.


Here's the switch where I first located it. I ultimately had to lower the switch 3/16" and remove the screws to avoid touching the radiator. Lower as in deeper into the plastic (removed plastic under micro switch to lower it). I was afraid the heat from the radiator would ruin the switch as it was actually cheek to cheek with rad. I stopped taking pictures when I saw my idea/plan was failing. I ended up making 3 different "sails" using the original lever though. The lever needed to be dog legged to side step the side of radiator until the shroud widens at the bottom half. From there it reaches forward to gain access to a bigger air stream. The latest one works very well as indicated by the LED I have to monitor it. I'll try and entertain you with some pics below that I did take and if there is some interest in the actual finished product, I'll remove the shroud and take a pic of what's there.
opened throat of bottom four breeze ways, later I polished with 500 grit and painted with plastic paint. I freshened up both sides and the radiator with paint (after this pic obviously). This was my DR bike for years and it needs some TLC.

Version 1 sail in place. This one "fluttered" during actuation and took 30 mph to "close". I installed a LED at the speedo to temporarily monitor the "on/off" activity of the fan. FAIL

You have to have a screen to keep a bug from disabling the switch I epoxied it in.

Scale




Anyway, what I did notice is that my engine block/head temps were quite a bit higher than the water neck temp when measured with an infrared heat gun. So when I was seeing 170's on the neck and radiator, the readings when the cylinders meet/converge was 200+, the bike wasn't even fully warmed up yet either. I encourage you guys to check your block temps for S&Gs'.

I know you need the oil to get nice and hot and keep it that way for an hour or so to keep acids and moisture from forming and accumulating but excessive heat is detrimental IMO. So, I think this system works best to meet my goals and I hope you found it entertaining/interesting.

Cheers:
Jim

 

[Dorney]

Hope it works out for you.

 

[jimvette999]

Due to the overwhelming number of requests I received, I've added these photos. Please stop asking me to take your money, I'm not making them for anyone else.

Freshened up

Version 3 viewed from outside

Version 3 viewed from inside

Up close & personal

Vmax's bedroom...living the good life!

Cheers,
Jim

 

[jimvette999]

Here's a short-n-sweet vid showing how the sail switch works. From a dead stop to 30 to dead stop. Sorry so shaky, my son was not steady
Jim