What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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Thanks for the tip, I'm glad I didn't try going any higher. I know most forks air assists are minimal pressure only, so I tried not to get too ambitious. Tonight I'll check and lower as necessary. Lowering and oil height/weight are thing I'm somewhat comfortable with so dialing it all in should be a fun project here this spring. I'll keep the 15w in mind, I do like slowing things down a bit sometimes, which of course that would help with..

+1 on lowering the air pressure. i think the max is like 15 psi.
 
Just ordered new black powder coated frame braces for my '05 and black stainless steel engine bolt kit. Pics to come in 3 weeks once installed.
 
5 to 14.7 max i just looked it up the other day.
if i'm wrong blame CLYMERS. (it came with a bike)
That sounds about right.
I just read the factory manual and it said this: "When checking and adjusting air pressure there should be no weight on the front end of the motorcycle." The recommended air pressures: 5.7psi to 14.2 psi
Taken from Genuine Yamaha Service manual (LIT-11616-VM-13) for Yamaha Vmax model VMX12-C (N-H).
 
Just installed Morely's Super Bike Handle Bar Gotta say I like the feel. Dont have the energy to go for a ride tonight so tomorrow will be the test.

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Now the photo below shows the problem with it, Which Sean did give me a heads up on, and while I am on it I dont see a problem and I am sure I wont feel a problem. That being said I would like a way to minimize this or hide this to any degree.

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"Whooo-eee! Dat lookin' jes' lahk Lo-renn Hutton's eye-teeth!" Looks to me like the handlebar inner bend is too-close to the riser clamp ass'y. See the gap on the bottom of the handlebar, next to the riser? A dead giveaway.
 
If you wanna keep those bars, two things you could do. One, get some sheet gasket compound and use an Exacto knife & a fresh blade to cutout a gasket in the riser/clamp external contour. Two, do the same thing but with a piece of sheet aluminum sized to close the gap. You probably would have two pieces if you want to keep the gap even on both sides. Or, one if you paid-attention to the comment below.

'mabdcmb' gave you some no-cost advice. I always learned to tighten the forward or front handlebars' screws first to close the gap, and then tighten the rear to the appropriate torque.
 
Here is a comparison between Sean's Superbike bar and Flanders C25:

Height/ Pullback/ Center/ Width/ Price
Sean's 3.04" / 3" / 4" / 29.2" / $25-$30
Flanders 2.5" / 5" / 4.5" / 29" / $100.95

IMO: Flanders has too much pullback and costs a LOT! Sean's only drawback is the center width (not really a issue) and with a $70 savings, for me it's a no brainer, Sean wins.
 
The clamp is designed to tighten fully on the top bolts and use the bottom to set the tension. Even the stock bar has a gap on the bottom side. You'll have a slightly larger gap with the new bar. You could grind an angle into the top clamp to let it sit farther down but it's not needed.

Sean
 
Finally got a chance to really put some wrench time into the bike. Installed Ricor Intiminators, adjusted the steering head bearings thanks to Dingy's custom wrench and Sean's "how to" video. Also installed my Harlan shift light, wires were like 3 inches too short so I had to splice some extensions in. Now if the weather would warm up and dry out, I might actually be able to take it out for a test flight!
 
Subject: Acquisition of equipment; maintenance of appearance
Purpose: Enhancement of conspicuity to other motor vehicle operators; prevention of deterioration due to exposure to elements
Method of meeting puropse: Use of lighting products; use of protective cloaking device (not Romulan-compatible)

Item #1:



Source code: http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=52&category_id=9&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77&vmcchk=1&Itemid=77

Features: dual-output l.e.d. reverse-engineered from material scavenged from 1947 Roswell NM e.t.v. ('extra-terrestrial vehicle') wreckage, including solid-state micro-miniaturization electronics duplicating the distinctive sequential flashing lights witnessed prior to crash (application requires additional silicon-based circuit to MIL-SPEC E.M.P.-resistance capacity & capability). Laterally-placed vertical amber bars signify impending vehicle directional vector change upon activation by M.V.O. w/a minimum of movement, parameter of activation is compatable w/multiple-g maneuvers limiting M.V.O.'s ability to perform gross motor movements in all extremities.

Item #2:

Cloaking device to mimalize attraction of concealment item to recidivists, to be used in conjunction w/pick-resistant passive stationary immobilizer using destruction-resistant alloys. PVC coverage applied to exterior of passive stationary immobilizer to lessen opportunity of device harming powdercoat or ornamental finish of vehicle. Caution!: not known to be effective against Romulan search frequencies, employ use of Interociter Advantium Utility Device to thwart hostile scans in these frequency wavelengths.

Deployment schedule: budget-approved, manpower trained and assigned, implementation to commence forthwith. Confirmation of use required.
 

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Footnote, I've got the same bars. Loosen the bolts on the bottom and tighten the ones on the top. Makes the gap less noticeable
+2 My bars are basically the same and this is what I did.
 
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Put on my Grip Puppies. They look and feel pretty good. PO had some skinny rubber grips that said "Super Bike" on them.
 

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Whats up with that? I still rode my max...no fenders, side covers and cardboard taped on where the airbox cover belongs while waiting on paint.
 
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