What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[Traumahawk]

Did a test fit of my belly pan... found a couple clearance issues with my rearsets and the #2 head pipe. Nothing some careful cutting and grinding wont fix :biglaugh:

Looks good.

 

[davesax36]

I tried to start my bike again... It didn't work. No idea what's up now. Replaced and gapped spark plugs. Just got carbs back from the shop setting float levels,and I even drove 85 miles one way to buy some no-ethanol gas.

 

[vmax2extreme]

Its been in the 50's for the past few days so I fired up the vmax and took her for a ride through town before the rain set it. Rode like the first day I got her...PERFECT!!!

Back under cover in the garage again to rest...

 

[Traumahawk]

Set the A/F screws using a H/F temp gun.

With the changes that were done during the last dyno run....drilling the slides, and stage 7 springs....I knew that I changed the A/F requirements of the engine at idle. At the dyno I was 14.2-13.9 A/F at idle.

I basically had all the A/f screws at 3 turns out....but I knew that I was running a bit lean around town around 3000 rpm. I would occasionally get that lean pop thru the carbs.

So putting the bike on the lift, and starting it up, and I used the temp gun when I took it off of choke. ( I did this mostly cold....as I didnt want the bike to warm up too much, and melt the pads on the lift).

So, the bike idling on its own, RF was about 225 (this was taken about 1 inch off the head), LF was about 179, R & L Rear were both above 370.....and all of these were taken with approx 7 secs of each other. I thought about leaning everything out.....but decided against that do to the lean pop that I was already getting.

So gave the rear carbs about another 1/2 turn, and brought both to around 250....and now at idle....all were between 225 and 275. Took the bike for a ride.....and it feels really smooth. running around town.


All for 35 dollars from Harbor Freight.

 

[Miles Long]

Set the A/F screws using a H/F temp gun.

With the changes that were done during the last dyno run....drilling the slides, and stage 7 springs....I knew that I changed the A/F requirements of the engine at idle. At the dyno I was 14.2-13.9 A/F at idle.

I basically had all the A/f screws at 3 turns out....but I knew that I was running a bit lean around town around 3000 rpm. I would occasionally get that lean pop thru the carbs.

So putting the bike on the lift, and starting it up, and I used the temp gun when I took it off of idle. ( I did this mostly cold....as I didnt want the bike to warm up too much, and melt the pads on the lift).

So, the bike idling on its own, RF was about 225 (this was taken about 1 inch off the head), LF was about 179, R & L Rear were both above 370.....and all of these were taken with approx 7 secs of each other. I thought about leaning everything out.....but decided against that do to the lean pop that I was already getting.

So gave the rear carbs about another 1/2 turn, and brought both to around 250....and now at idle....all were between 225 and 275. Took the bike for a ride.....and it feels really smooth. running around town.


All for 35 dollars from Harbor Freight.

Interesting. I always wondered if temperature could be used as a substitute for oxygen sensors. Why don't you post some pics of the procedure, along with step by step instructions, so Mr. Hymen can make it a "Sticky"?
So you didn't want to "melt the pads off the lift" Why not make one of these?
Cheers!

 

[Traumahawk]

Interesting. I always wondered if temperature could be used as a substitute for oxygen sensors. Why don't you post some pics of the procedure, along with step by step instructions, so Mr. Hymen can make it a "Sticky"?
So you didn't want to "melt the pads off the lift" Why not make one of these?
Cheers!

Ok.....will do. I really like that add on to the lift. Simple is good.

 

[Miles Long]

Ok.....will do. I really like that add on to the lift. SIMPLE IS GOOD.

Funny - My wife claims that's the reason she married me. Whatever.....

 

[huskyman510]

Set the A/F screws using a H/F temp gun.

With the changes that were done during the last dyno run....drilling the slides, and stage 7 springs....I knew that I changed the A/F requirements of the engine at idle. At the dyno I was 14.2-13.9 A/F at idle.

I basically had all the A/f screws at 3 turns out....but I knew that I was running a bit lean around town around 3000 rpm. I would occasionally get that lean pop thru the carbs.

So putting the bike on the lift, and starting it up, and I used the temp gun when I took it off of choke. ( I did this mostly cold....as I didnt want the bike to warm up too much, and melt the pads on the lift).

So, the bike idling on its own, RF was about 225 (this was taken about 1 inch off the head), LF was about 179, R & L Rear were both above 370.....and all of these were taken with approx 7 secs of each other. I thought about leaning everything out.....but decided against that do to the lean pop that I was already getting.

So gave the rear carbs about another 1/2 turn, and brought both to around 250....and now at idle....all were between 225 and 275. Took the bike for a ride.....and it feels really smooth. running around town.


All for 35 dollars from Harbor Freight.

Constantly loving all the different tuning work you do on the Max, your my number one reference man!!

 

[Traumahawk]

Constantly loving all the different tuning work you do on the Max, your my number one reference man!!

Thanks!!! what can I say, especially as a teen, I got bit by the car bug, and as I got older, I got bit by the Vmax bug.

 

[veebooster]

I've been wondering about adjusting by temps but didn't really know what kind of numbers to look for. Thanks for the info. This spring start up I'll give it a try!

Dale

 

[Traumahawk]

I've been wondering about adjusting by temps but didn't really know what kind of numbers to look for. Thanks for the info. This spring start up I'll give it a try!

Dale

Well, the hotter the bike gets, it will automatically change the exhaust gas temps, because the bike has been running longer. So i think this technique is really good to basically get all 4 carbs to operate the same at idle.

I just tried to be around the same temp. Lean naturally burns hotter, and richer burns colder, and some cylinders naturally run hotter than others, so to me this is a good way to balance the carbs.

Some people are very good at having the bike idle, and then adjust the A/F screws 1 by 1 until the bike begins to stumble. Ive tried that, and just wasnt very good at it, so came up with my own method.

One thing that I thought about while doing this.....is that even the factory didnt have all of the screws at the same turns out.

 

[one2dmax]

The factory sets the original settings on the mix screws this same way. They use an EGT probe in the exhaust to do it (that's what the small bolts in the bottom of the stock pipes are for).

Sean

 

[bazwell]

Ok.....will do. I really like that add on to the lift. SIMPLE IS GOOD.

Funny - My wife claims that's the reason she married me. Whatever.....

Reminds me of the time my missus said "Basil, you weigh more than me because you are more dense." :rofl_200:


I have used a cheap IR thermometer before to see if the cylinders were even.
It aint an exact science, but I found it can be used as an indicator for those of us who only ever tune our own bikes. Just be aware that it's not exact, and it is no substitute for a manometer.

Every time I tune mine I get better at it, but it is taking a long time to "get an ear" for setting idle mixtures.

 

[bazwell]

Today I jumped on my bike to do errands. After about 10 minutes I decided to go home because my fingera felt like someone had a hair dryer blowing on them. I went home, parked her up, went into the air conditioning and watched Discovery Turbo instead. :rofl_200:

Happy new year to all fellow vmaxxers. (Except for Chinese people or Buddhist people or timw travellers, of course.)
Keep it shiny side uo for another year!
You never know, you might be the person who has the answer to a Vmax question that I'm going to ask in 2015! :rofl_200:

 

[davesax36]

I got my bike to start, got the carbs pretty much synched (have to clean my carbtune to get a good reading on #4), and zip tied the brake lever back against the bars to see if I can get that all worked out tomorrow.

 

[invalidsession]

I did the rear light mod. $23.50 for the light incl shipping, turn signals work inclusive with my rear sticks ( I like a ittle width) and self cancelling still works perfecty.
A dramatic difference to the bikes appearance.


Chris.

 

[ga_max]

Installed new R/R from Sean, voltage looks better and actually increases with RPMs rather that decreasing. Took a 40 mile ride in 43 degree partly cloudy weather. New gloves worked well. Also replaced stock brake light bulbs with 1157 white LEDs. Much brighter.unk:

 

[sdt354]

I changed all my hoses to Exactrep blacks. It was time. Sean shipped them lightning fast. Nice quality stuff.

 

[adambweird]

Ordered some carb parts from Sean and a hose end fitting for my oil pressure gauge relocation project.

 

[jagco1]

I put on the D-3 grips that I had gotten from Sean last month. I did have to do some modifying. The silver piece on the left grip I had to cut down, and there is a bump by the right grip, to set the factory throttle. I had to grind that down a bit.

Nice I like them.