What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[Born2Ride]

rode it at evening and when returning home at night, find out I have no front light, no rear light and no light on gauges....

 

[sdt354]

Bad weather here for a while, so I pulled the forks apart for Gold valve emulator install. Of course it looks like crap in there even though I change the fluid yearly. Every thing got a bath and I made some new spacers to compensate for the valve height. I did bushings & seals 15k miles ago, and they still look serviceable. This kind of sinks my USD fork plans, now that I've put $$ in what's there. I am toying with an extra brace bellow the lower tree. Stiffen up the early gen. 1 forks a bit more. I will use the $$ saved by not going USD for a Venture hybrid project.
Steve-o

 

[Traumahawk]

Bad weather here for a while, so I pulled the forks apart for Gold valve emulator install. Of course it looks like crap in there even though I change the fluid yearly. Every thing got a bath and I made some new spacers to compensate for the valve height. I did bushings & seals 15k miles ago, and they still look serviceable. This kind of sinks my USD fork plans, now that I've put $$ in what's there. I am toying with an extra brace bellow the lower tree. Stiffen up the early gen. 1 forks a bit more. I will use the $$ saved by not going USD for a Venture hybrid project.
Steve-o

What springs are you running with those?

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[sdt354]

Best riding temp. in the Northeast this time of year. The old Vmax likes the cool air too. Swimming? Ah, not to crowded at the beach on the Cape this week. Possible huge storm brewing for us too.

 

[sdt354]

What springs are you running with those?

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Progressive if you mean in the forks Eric. On the valve I'm going with the yellow to start. I'm thinking of running a lb. of air in the fork just to keep positive pressure in the tubes. Maybe keep the oil clean longer. Moisture is the enemy.

 

[Traumahawk]

Progressive if you mean in the forks Eric. On the valve I'm going with the yellow to start. I'm thinking of running a lb. of air in the fork just to keep positive pressure in the tubes. Maybe keep the oil clean longer. Moisture is the enemy.

I wonder what's better....the ricors. ....or the gold valve?

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[DMAN999]

Best riding temp. in the Northeast this time of year. The old Vmax likes the cool air too. Swimming? Ah, not to crowded at the beach on the Cape this week. Possible huge storm brewing for us too.

Absolutely my Vmax runs like a Scalded Ape in the Spring and Fall in 40-60 F temps.

 

[Fire-medic]

I don't think there's much difference. I have RICORS and like them. A wave washer stack is just that, tuned correctly is more important than brand, my belief.

I wonder what's better....the ricors. ....or the gold valve?

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[Traumahawk]

I don't think there's much difference. I have RICORS and like them. A wave washer stack is just that, tuned correctly is more important than brand, my belief.

Thanks for the info.

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[Dorney]

rode it at evening and when returning home at night, find out I have no front light, no rear light and no light on gauges....

Sounds like the starter button is sticking.

Dave

 

[davesax36]

Thanks for the info.

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Also getting some springs that match your weight helps.

 

[Born2Ride]

Sounds like the starter button is sticking.

Dave

the start button seems to work fine. which detail should I be checking to confirm it?

 

[Traumahawk]

the start button seems to work fine. which detail should I be checking to confirm it?

Just make certain that it is fully out. If it is stuck in just a bit.....the headlight and instrument lights won't work.

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[silverado6x6]

Sold my 85 today, cannot reasonably transport it from Alaska to Australia, at the very least the buyer swears he won't chop or cafe mod the bike, my last bike sold was a beautiful 95 Virago 750, buyer trashes bike into a rat style cafe racer.

I will look for another in Oz, i keep having a gut feeling i won't be returning to America soon, something or someone desires my participation there. So my big running bikes are all packed into a 40' reefer trailer i bought this year for storage, being insulated means a better environment for the bikes, sometime later i will figure out what to do with the rest of them.

 

[Miles Long]

Sold my 85 today, cannot reasonably transport it from Alaska to Australia, at the very least the buyer swears he won't chop or cafe mod the bike, my last bike sold was a beautiful 95 Virago 750, buyer trashes bike into a rat style cafe racer.

I will look for another in Oz, i keep having a gut feeling i won't be returning to America soon, something or someone desires my participation there. So my big running bikes are all packed into a 40' reefer trailer i bought this year for storage, being insulated means a better environment for the bikes, sometime later i will figure out what to do with the rest of them.

Best of luck in The land Down Under, Silver. Hope you find that pot of gold.
Cheers, Mate!unk:

 

[sdt354]

With the mounts. Lets see what this mod you did looks like

The mounts aren't very visible installed. Or I'd gladly take a pic.

 

[sdt354]

Here's what I did recently, a bench rebuild of a complete front brake system. Actually, the system had coagulated orange snot in it, almost like a paste, at the caliper banjos at the splitter block. The fluid in the calipers was still intact, and while dirty, it was still transparent, not opaque.

I removed all the hoses, flushed them, blew them out, wire-wheeled the banjo bolts and also flushed them, & blew them out. The pads look almost new, they have a deep wear indicator groove yet.

I cleaned the calipers w/brake cleaner, pads and pistons too, and used a square screwdriver & a crescent wrench to retract the pistons.

With the caliper hoses & brake bleeder nipples off, I filled the calipers at the hose connections until I saw the brake fluid in the bleeder holes. Then I re-installed the hoses & nipples. I had already previously cleaned the master cylinder. Now it was time to connect the master cyl hose to the brake splitter block, and the upper caliper hose banjo bolts to the splitter.

Next I broke-out the 60 ml syringe and 6" of clear plastic hose, and hose-clamped the hose to the caliper bleeder. Filling the syringe w/~20 ml of brake fluid, I opened the bleeder and I reverse-flushed the fluid towards the brake master cyl. Quickly I saw fluid in the reservoir. I shut the bleeder nipple and fanned the brake lever w/the master cyl immobile in the vise. Immediately the lever was getting firm. I repeated the same thing for the other caliper (both calipers were on a loose rotor I hadn't discarded), and now I had a good lever, and a well-bled system.

The first step in getting a tired old bike back on the road. A heart donor already contributed its engine (thanks to a Captain Morgan lovin' member), yet to be installed. It's got a long ways to go, but one less job after today. The first thing I did was to ditch the z-bars for a stock set.

Then, the Elephant Burial Ground (last pic).

That's a nice quick way to bleed a system FM, Thanks for sharing. When I go Dot 5 in the front and clutch I'll do it this way. I have now gone a full season with dot 5 in the back brakes, no issues. I did an alcohol flush first then bled out the alcohol with Dot 5.
Steve

 

[Fire-medic]

The reason I did it off the bike was because I had the bikes in storage but needed to have operable brakes to safely move them to the mechanic's. I couldn't do the rebuild at the storage facility. So I stripped the system off, and about the only thing I had to do to remove the front system complete was to remove the headlight so I could pass through between the downtube and the steering head the front master cyl/lever after removing it from the handlebar. I left it attached to the 'Yamaha' bottom mounting plate (plate removed for access to the brake hose splitter), and removed the headlight bezel to remove the 10 mm bolt inside the headlight bucket holding it to the fixture the bolt threads into. I may have removed the front turn signal mounting bracket too. The bracket, the bottom headlight mounting plate which says, 'Yamaha,' and the the brake hose splitter all use the same size allen head hex fastener.

That's a nice quick way to bleed a system FM, Thanks for sharing. When I go Dot 5 in the front and clutch I'll do it this way. I have now gone a full season with dot 5 in the back brakes, no issues. I did an alcohol flush first then bled out the alcohol with Dot 5.
Steve

 

[Born2Ride]

QUOTinstrumentk;415434]Just make certain that it is fully out. If it is stuck in just a bit.....the headlight and instrument lights won't work.

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just tried it. moved the button every ways and directions , started also the bike. nothing changes.
the instrument lights like oil , turn and neutral are working except gauges

 

[Miles Long]

QUOTinstrumentk;415434]Just make certain that it is fully out. If it is stuck in just a bit.....the headlight and instrument lights won't work.

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just tried it. moved the button every ways and directions , started also the bike. nothing changes.
the instrument lights like oil , turn and neutral are working except gauges[/QUOTE]

The wiring is different on the European models, according to the diagrams available on the "Morley's Muscle" banner website. Check it out, under "technical"-"wiring diagrams"-"1990-2003 Europe models"
Do you have a separate Light Switch, as per the diagram? If so, there seems to be one position common to the lamps not working on your bike. Perhaps a good cleaning of the switch will restore power to them.
Cheers!