What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

[Fire-medic]

The carbon fiber one like yours is supposed to be four ounces lighter, not a big deal for me, as I have an 18-1/2" shirt collar size, but "ounces are ounces," and it could mean less fatigue for wearing your helmet over an extended period. I might have to stop by my local shop to see them.

For anyone interested in this, they are well-discounted at many retailers. here's one Amazon site: https://www.amazon.com/Shark-Evoline-Pro-Carbon-Helmet-Red-Black-L/dp/B00R4L1GWY

I have too bought a Shark helmet (as Fire-medic have) in carbon black colour. :biglaugh:
But i shall dig a little out of the foam in the ear area to get room for my Hearing'aid's. I hope not the helmet iss too quiet.
I want to allways hear the grunt from my V-maxie. unk:

 

[baloo681]

Stripped my forks .found out idiot friend who did my seal didnt seat 1 fork seal correctly had to destroy a seal clip and bush stuck .now I have had to order full bush set.rant over

 

[spottedsquirl]

Finally got my Vbeast going! Took it out on my first long/short trip, about a 10 mile rounder. The only hiccup was after the first couple miles the front brakes slowly locked up and put me at a stop in the road before I could pull to the side. They were smoking bad. I started working the brake lever as hard as I could and finally freed up. I got it off to the side and let sit for a minute. I cautiously rolled it a bit and grabbed at the brakes and the seemed to be working now. I got it back on the road and idle down this steep hill I was at the top of working the brakes every couple of seconds too see if they will hold and stop. After I pulled up to the stop sign at the bottom checked the highway and off I went. Didn't have anymore issues. Back home, I'm cold, can't feel my legs but, I got best warm fuzzy feeling and thrilled I can now ride it. It has been a pain working on it since I got it back in July... I'd do it all again!

 

[spottedsquirl]

Thought I'd share a pic.

 

[jdeitz1979]

Nice bike, glad the ride went good.


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[Lotsokids]

Early Christmas present - a chrome flame radiator cover.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sounds like you have a blocked brake hose or debris blocking your front master cyl. hole, the small one. You need to fix that before you use the bike. Use a pin to poke into the small front master cyl. hole to clear it. What color is your brake fluid? If it isn't clear, time for a thorough flush. If you have the original rubber brake hoses, one could be collapsing internally and holding the system pressurized. There is no fix other than replacing the hose and a good thorough flush to remove any crud that may be in there.

Finally got my Vbeast going! Took it out on my first long/short trip, about a 10 mile rounder. The only hiccup was after the first couple miles the front brakes slowly locked up and put me at a stop in the road before I could pull to the side. They were smoking bad. I started working the brake lever as hard as I could and finally freed up. I got it off to the side and let sit for a minute. I cautiously rolled it a bit and grabbed at the brakes and the seemed to be working now. I got it back on the road and idle down this steep hill I was at the top of working the brakes every couple of seconds too see if they will hold and stop. After I pulled up to the stop sign at the bottom checked the highway and off I went. Didn't have anymore issues. Back home, I'm cold, can't feel my legs but, I got best warm fuzzy feeling and thrilled I can now ride it. It has been a pain working on it since I got it back in July... I'd do it all again!

 

[93max]

X2 what Medic said. I had a motor home that drove me nuts. caliper kept locking up.
I replaced everything to no avail.
My buddy said "did you change the rubber lines yet?"
Nope.
I did and presto! NO locking/dragging brakes!
I never would have thought this as it only had 30k on it.

 

[Fire-medic]

That huge format bike pic 'spottedsquirrel' has posted seems to give my computer fits, when I try to hit, 'reply' in this thread, and not 'reply' on the post where that ginormous pic is. Any chance that a moderator can reduce the size of it?

A source of hoses for your bike that probably would be cheaper is Earl's Supply, at your local performance car store/speed shop, or online. You can order almost anything from them, you just have to be specific about the specs.

If you cannot find what you want in their current listings, you could try a local supplier of hydraulic hoses, and compare their price to a ready-made set designed to fit your bike from online suppliers. My local independent shop can fabricate whatever brake lines I want.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/earls-performance

 

[one2dmax]

I've got galfers from $90-$150 depending on your configuration and colors you desire. Sometimes I get some used lines but can't remember what I have used currently.

 

[eggohead]

Helped show a buddy how to install the musclejet kit, and need help finding instructions for installing his Marks 4-1 exhaust... couldn’t find them nor a link on here...

 

[Red Rocker]

Installed holeshot frame braces. What a difference.

 

[[email protected]]

Helped show a buddy how to install the musclejet kit, and need help finding instructions for installing his Marks 4-1 exhaust... couldn’t find them nor a link on here...

No instructions for it.
Start at front, work your way back, leave everything loose till all parts are installed. Once it's all installed the tighten up. Clean fingerprints/oil/dirt/grease off before you fire up the motor.

A 8mm Allen key with a 8mm ratchet wrench works well for removing the rear header nuts. I cut the allen key down to 1.5 or 2" long. 5/16" will work too.

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[eggohead]

No instructions for it.
Start at front, work your way back, leave everything loose till all parts are installed. Once it's all installed the tighten up. Clean fingerprints/oil/dirt/grease off before you fire up the motor.

A 8mm Allen key with a 8mm ratchet wrench works well for removing the rear header nuts. I cut the allen key down to 1.5 or 2" long. 5/16" will work too.

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for some reason I was thinking the rear headers came in between next to the swingarm.... I forgot I was putting solid engine mounts in on mine when I put 4-1 on it... oh the kicker, I didn't even look at mine siting outside his shop...lol I have UFO, but it should be pretty much the same... Oh and I did see a post showing them put together not on a bike for better picture of how they set together...

 

[jdeitz1979]

Put the bike on the lift and removed the exhaust and rear tire. Did a quick mock with the hayabusa wheel. Dropping wheels off this week for machining.

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[AJBinVA]

It's going to look great.

 

[one2dmax]

Kosman did a busa conversion for a friend probably 10 years ago. Turned out nice but was a bit on the heavy side.

 

[firebolt]

Ugh...I winterized her and the Honda last night. Sad day.

Usually get a clear strip of pavement here and there through the winter though, fingers crossed!

 

[capymotiv]

Learned a valuable lesson. Don't try to separate the slides to replace the diaphragm. The whole bottom breaks off when you do. Thanks youtube.

 

[D-Max2012]

Learned a valuable lesson. Don't try to separate the slides to replace the diaphragm. The whole bottom breaks off when you do. Thanks Youtube.

If you tried the tapping method, it can easily break off.
You won't know how much epoxy was used originally to build it.
Yamaha built them pretty good.

IF you used the file / grind method, it works fine..
Did my own with the "grinding" method after busting my 1st one by tapping on it.

Also, if I need to do it again, I no longer have to worry about busting an expensive slider.

I forgot to line up the old diaphragm notch like he did on the video, but i have not notice any difference in performance.
The bike still pulls strong and so far, have not had any issues with this fix.. (4 years now and counting).

I used Harbor Freight 6" Clamps to keep even pressure while the Permatex Ultra Black cured up.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84DRVc9J5GQ