fullhouse
Well-Known Member
Fitted new clutch
Fitted vmax decals to the wheels
Fitted vmax decals to the wheels
What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
- Start date
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Painted these today for the 2000 I bought. Its PPG Candy red not a true candy but that's the name they gave it. I added Russet & gold pearl in the clear. The pictures don't do it justice you cant see the pearl in them. It really pops in the sun when you see it.
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Not today but over about the last month I have been doing maintenance & redoing things on Christine's 85. I repainted the engine, brake calipers, swingarm , clutch & brake masters, put on new control switches, put in new head bearings, Had the lower forks powder coated, triple trees powder coated, new fork seals, new tires, new GP bars, new fan switch ,new levers, new MC caps, Todds brake bar, Todds water jacket covers, Changed all the fluids & I am sure I am forgetting some things. I pretty much went over it end to end.
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invalidsession
Well-Known Member
I finally bolted the (nearly) last piece onto my Max after it's "knock over". Had a friend paint the clutch case and got it all bolted up. New oil and she's almost ready to go. Just waiting on the new seat to arrive and for my lazy arse to put on the left rear turn signal.
Chris.
Chris.
Put my starter clutch back in and finally figured out my coolant leak, hose was junk but luckily I had a spare here... I'll finish putting the other little odds & ends back on tomorrow and do a little riding hopefully...
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davesax36
Well-Known Member
Finished the wiring for my new gauges. Fabbed my speedo sensor bracket, plasti-dipped the gauge mount and speedo sensor mount. Checked on the shipping status of my '85 wheel. Hope my rotor just bolts on or it's going back on ebay (I'm sure it will be no problem).
I hope to get a chance to shoot my eastwood 2k clear on my painted (by me) parts tomorrow so they can be ready to put back on for Monday. Stock dash cover, radiator covers, side covers, and chin.
I hope to get a chance to shoot my eastwood 2k clear on my painted (by me) parts tomorrow so they can be ready to put back on for Monday. Stock dash cover, radiator covers, side covers, and chin.
![Bovemanx Motorcycle Phone Mount Holder, [150mph Wind Anti-Shake][7.2inch Big Phone Friendly] Bike Phone Holder, Motorcycle Handlebar Cell Phone Clamp, Compatible with iPhone 16 Pro Max Smartphones](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51F+1sontPL._SL500_.jpg)
SledHead
Well-Known Member
- Checked and aired up the tires on the SF, then took it for a short ride.
- Checked tire air pressure, changed oil and filter, cleaned a dirty high beam switch on the Vmax, then took it for a ride.
- Installed a powered mount for my Garmin Montana on the KLR, aired up the tires and took it for a ride too.
- Checked tire air pressure on the FJR and took it for a ride.
Biker Dash
Well-Known Member
The day just does not get any better than this! Riding four different bikes in one day... PRICELESS!!!
I did several things. I changed the oil and put on a stainless steel reusable oilfilter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/31067338101...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_994wt_1018
I put on the 11.5 inch progressive shocks that I got from Vmax2extreme. I also put on the bungee shock mounts that I got from Todd, and also a shortened kickstand that I got from Sean.
being an 1.5 inches shorter in the rear definately feels different. Its nice to put my feet flat on the ground at a stop sign.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/31067338101...NX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_994wt_1018
I put on the 11.5 inch progressive shocks that I got from Vmax2extreme. I also put on the bungee shock mounts that I got from Todd, and also a shortened kickstand that I got from Sean.
being an 1.5 inches shorter in the rear definately feels different. Its nice to put my feet flat on the ground at a stop sign.
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Biker Dash
Well-Known Member
WOW! And I thought I had short legs. The only time I am not flatfooted at a stop is if I am on the slight raised portion between the two ruts on a worn road.
As for what I did today, well, yesterday, I received a new (to me) exhaust in the mail. Specifically, the Cobra Slash Cut slip-ons. I attempted to install them. I say attempted because I got the three bolts undone, and the four clamps fully loosened, but the damned stock exhaust does NOT want to come off. It is the left hand rear header that does not want to come out for some reason. I got it maybe halfway, but it will not budge any further.
I sprayed weasel piss (WD-40) in there, and I am letting it sit overnight. Maybe tomorrow, it will finally come off, and I can get my Cobra exhaust mounted finally.
Try a bit of heat on that clamp connection. A propane torch should be fine. You don't need to cook a steak on it, but heating the joint and having someone to wiggle the connection should make it come-apart.
Just curious why you want the Cobras. They are for pretty, yes, but do not provide the same h.p. as stock, they offer less because of their lack of scavenging.
Just curious why you want the Cobras. They are for pretty, yes, but do not provide the same h.p. as stock, they offer less because of their lack of scavenging.
ZackDaniels
Well-Known Member
CBR taillight mod.
3M taped and black silicon caulk straight to the plastic fender with the sub fender cut away. I kind of want to weld something on it for a mount just for the extra peace of mind, but I really doubt it's going to go anywhere.
Used these to light up the license plate:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIEQXY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They look great and I'm happy with it as long as it doesn't fall off :rofl_200:
3M taped and black silicon caulk straight to the plastic fender with the sub fender cut away. I kind of want to weld something on it for a mount just for the extra peace of mind, but I really doubt it's going to go anywhere.
Used these to light up the license plate:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIEQXY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They look great and I'm happy with it as long as it doesn't fall off :rofl_200:
My inseam is 29 inches...so I can reach flatfooted, but its with my legs out straight, and its something that I have to try to do, and so it doesnt come naturally. Now, my legs can even be bent, and I reach flatfooted.
On the 4 clamps, I took the bolts all of the way out, so I could wiggle the exhaust up and down to get it off.
Biker Dash
Well-Known Member
They are the best exhaust out there in the looks department, and as for why they do not provide the scavenging, I would like to know, so that I can know what I would need to do to correct that, and still have the look I desire
I am NOT an fluid-dynamics engineer, nor am I a tuning expert who makes his living by building exhaust systems or by tuning them.
When designed to have the power stroke of the internal combustion cycle for cylinders closely-follow one-another, the increased exhaust pipe pressure creates a relative negative pressure compared to the later-firing cylinder and its exhaust. When the following cylinder fires, it has its exhaust gases "pulled-along" because of that pressure differential. That's scavenging.
Done correctly, the timing of the exhaust impulses, coupled with the diameter of the pipes, can reinforce the relative efficiency of the exhaust flow. The operational rpm range of the engine's design, the need for power vs. torque, the position of the powerband, all these are factors in the exhaust design.
Small exhaust ports promote faster-flow, larger exhaust ports promote more flow. Because back-pressure helps to keep the incoming fuel-air flow in the cylinder, awaiting combustion, the size of the exhaust passage and the valve(s), and the desired operational parameters of the engine, such-as torque across a wide range (what you want on the street) vs. the 'best' power (what you probably want in a racing engine where the engine commonly operates in a narrow range of its total rpm capacity, like a dragster, or a track car/bike) all are taken into-account when designing an efficient exhaust for a particular use.
Equal-length headers, when properly sequenced for the gas flow, will have this 'scavenging' inherent in their design. Four-into-ones are typically balanced towards higher-horsepower but do not have as-efficient a midrange because of that upper-rpm balance.
Designs to modify the intake (variable-length intakes, like MV Agustas and some upper-end cars have, and of-course the VBoost itself) and the exhaust (EXUP in Yamaha sportbikes, and others' similar designs) are there to maintain high rates of speed of gas flow at smaller throttle-openings, and more gas flow at larger openings as rpm's climb. It's a balancing act.
When the premier road racing machines run by the majority of the field were single cylinder four-strokes, there was the phenomenon of 'megaphonitis,' where falling below the rpm's needed to make the cylinder charging/gas flow in the highly-tuned engines of the day, would result in incomplete combustion, and much-less power. There is no additional scavenging to be-had in a single cylinder machine because of a lack of additional cylinders' power strokes. Some manufacturers went to multiple cylinder engines to make power a different way, more parts, more complexity, less reciprocating mass per cylinder, less 'undersquare' (actually, 'oversquare') bore/stroke ratios, more valves, OHC designs, smaller combustion chamber volumes, requiring more-and-more spark ignition advance to get the air/fuel mixture to burn, it's all a compromise. That was the era of the Moto-Guzzi V-8, the four cylinder MV Agustas, and eventually the rise of the Japanese four-stroke four and six cylinder machines from Honda, while the others embraced the two-stroke system for cheap-plentiful horsepower, after an Eastern European rider defected to the West, taking with him the secrets of gas flow and the relative benefits of the use of pressure waves to keep two-stroke gases in the cylinder, available for combustion, instead of just flowing through the cylinder and out the exhaust port, because of the relative inefficiency of the piston-port design. The Japanese became-aware of the expansion chamber design parameters for two-stroke engines, and changed for many years the optimal roadracing engine configuration.
So, what does that all mean to you and the Cobra exhausts? If you like the style, enjoy it. Not everyone needs the optimal levels of horsepower, nor is it commonly used for street bikes. So, if you like 'em, run 'em and enjoy the style. Maybe down the road you will decide to try the more performance-oriented design, to see what you are missing. I'd say, a back-to-back ride of two bikes, identical as-much as possible, except with the difference being a set of 4-into-4 Cobras and a 4/1 properly tuned, will make you consider switching to a more performance oriented design.
I liked my stock design, I liked the quiet nature, the looks and trouble-free ownership. I also have three different 4/1's but only run one, and am happy w/what I have.
When designed to have the power stroke of the internal combustion cycle for cylinders closely-follow one-another, the increased exhaust pipe pressure creates a relative negative pressure compared to the later-firing cylinder and its exhaust. When the following cylinder fires, it has its exhaust gases "pulled-along" because of that pressure differential. That's scavenging.
Done correctly, the timing of the exhaust impulses, coupled with the diameter of the pipes, can reinforce the relative efficiency of the exhaust flow. The operational rpm range of the engine's design, the need for power vs. torque, the position of the powerband, all these are factors in the exhaust design.
Small exhaust ports promote faster-flow, larger exhaust ports promote more flow. Because back-pressure helps to keep the incoming fuel-air flow in the cylinder, awaiting combustion, the size of the exhaust passage and the valve(s), and the desired operational parameters of the engine, such-as torque across a wide range (what you want on the street) vs. the 'best' power (what you probably want in a racing engine where the engine commonly operates in a narrow range of its total rpm capacity, like a dragster, or a track car/bike) all are taken into-account when designing an efficient exhaust for a particular use.
Equal-length headers, when properly sequenced for the gas flow, will have this 'scavenging' inherent in their design. Four-into-ones are typically balanced towards higher-horsepower but do not have as-efficient a midrange because of that upper-rpm balance.
Designs to modify the intake (variable-length intakes, like MV Agustas and some upper-end cars have, and of-course the VBoost itself) and the exhaust (EXUP in Yamaha sportbikes, and others' similar designs) are there to maintain high rates of speed of gas flow at smaller throttle-openings, and more gas flow at larger openings as rpm's climb. It's a balancing act.
When the premier road racing machines run by the majority of the field were single cylinder four-strokes, there was the phenomenon of 'megaphonitis,' where falling below the rpm's needed to make the cylinder charging/gas flow in the highly-tuned engines of the day, would result in incomplete combustion, and much-less power. There is no additional scavenging to be-had in a single cylinder machine because of a lack of additional cylinders' power strokes. Some manufacturers went to multiple cylinder engines to make power a different way, more parts, more complexity, less reciprocating mass per cylinder, less 'undersquare' (actually, 'oversquare') bore/stroke ratios, more valves, OHC designs, smaller combustion chamber volumes, requiring more-and-more spark ignition advance to get the air/fuel mixture to burn, it's all a compromise. That was the era of the Moto-Guzzi V-8, the four cylinder MV Agustas, and eventually the rise of the Japanese four-stroke four and six cylinder machines from Honda, while the others embraced the two-stroke system for cheap-plentiful horsepower, after an Eastern European rider defected to the West, taking with him the secrets of gas flow and the relative benefits of the use of pressure waves to keep two-stroke gases in the cylinder, available for combustion, instead of just flowing through the cylinder and out the exhaust port, because of the relative inefficiency of the piston-port design. The Japanese became-aware of the expansion chamber design parameters for two-stroke engines, and changed for many years the optimal roadracing engine configuration.
So, what does that all mean to you and the Cobra exhausts? If you like the style, enjoy it. Not everyone needs the optimal levels of horsepower, nor is it commonly used for street bikes. So, if you like 'em, run 'em and enjoy the style. Maybe down the road you will decide to try the more performance-oriented design, to see what you are missing. I'd say, a back-to-back ride of two bikes, identical as-much as possible, except with the difference being a set of 4-into-4 Cobras and a 4/1 properly tuned, will make you consider switching to a more performance oriented design.
I liked my stock design, I liked the quiet nature, the looks and trouble-free ownership. I also have three different 4/1's but only run one, and am happy w/what I have.
davesax36
Well-Known Member
You can't fix the cobras. The cure is ufo quadzilla slash cuts.
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vmax2extreme
Well-Known Member
This past weekend I added a Morley Muscle clear water pump cover. Looks great!
WonkoTheSane
Well-Known Member
Tested that the fan actually works, with a direct connection to a 12V battery. Decided that in the short term, I'll just fit an override switch and ordered one, with built in LED for £1.69, shipped.
Then, I can address getting the gauge and switch working at a later date. It's too hot to think at the moment, but we're expecting heavy rain tonight. Bummer.
Then, I can address getting the gauge and switch working at a later date. It's too hot to think at the moment, but we're expecting heavy rain tonight. Bummer.
johnpclynch
Well-Known Member
Hmmm, built in LED for the fan :hmmm: challange accepted
WonkoTheSane
Well-Known Member
I just wanted visual confirmation the switch is on. They did them in a range of colours.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Illuminat...UE-GREEN-RED-12V-LED-Light-/200851159760?var=
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