What is the best oil for ouer max – semi or full syntetic?

[liptoss]

For a Christmas present a few years back, my brother gave me a few quarts of Mobil 1 V-Twin motorcycle oil. I used it in my 1984 XJ750RL. It seemed to work fine, no slipping of the clutch plates while riding, but then again, the XJ is by no means a huge power producing engine.
It worked for about 5 or 6 starts and runs over a period of days, but then a clicking began on starting the the motor. Sounded like the starter was finished. I pulled the starter, checked it... fine.
Frustrated I dumped the synthetic and refilled it with my trusty Castrol 20w50 motorcycle oil.
The problem disappeared. It seems the starter clutch on the XJ didn't like it. Was the Synthetic too slippery?
Seems so, since when I spoke to my brother about this, he told me that this is why he gave me the unopened oil as a gift. It had produced the same results on his 1987 Vmax too. Starter clutch not engaging and slipping/chattering. Lucky I didn't use it in my Max.
Moral of the story? Use good old Dino Oil in old motor designs...
And don't trust any repurposed Christmas gifts... even if they are given to you by family.

 

[dunlop150]

Rotella T is a very popular choice. Does anyone have specs that compare it to dino Yamalube?

 

[brad bruggeman]

Every time we've tried it the clutch slipped. There are multiple times this has been also commented on in this very forum and most have been lucky enough after 3-4 back to back oil changes to get it to stop slipping when going back to regular oil.

Been running synthetic in my vmax for 5 years and no clutch problems.32,000 miles,original clutch...

 

[falling]

I am not sure where this anti-synthetic idea comes from. I've been to Amsoil's dyno/testing facility. They have several motorcycles strapped to the dynos at all times. My friend there was just working on the latest motorcycle blend. On a 2014 CRF450R, doing full throttle gate drops, with the best conventional oil, the clutch was fried after 15 runs. With the old Amsoil blend (what's currently sold) the clutch showed little wear after 45 runs. With the new stuff, if was still within spec at 50 pulls.

My buddy laughs when people claim conventional will work just as well. He watches it burn off and break down at ridiculous rates in the dyno rooms.

Look up four ball wear tests and shear tests between conventional and synthetic. There is no comparison.

Amsoil, in particular, tests non-stop to get the best blend for wet clutches. Their tests are running right now, 24/7, 365.

In their tests, my buddy has concluded he would put only BelRay, Motorex, or Amsoil in any of his machines.

I trust him. All he does all day is run engines to the limit with various oils and then take them apart and inspect.

Just my $0.02.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[one2dmax]

I think you may want to go through the historical history in the forum here and other vmax forums. The wet clutch and sheer torque makes the clutch work too hard with the synthetic and they flat can't hold with the extra "slipperyness" of the synthetic. Too bad as the oil is better for all the rest of the parts.

The stock clutch also slips and many never notice it. So, if you running synthetic and don't have any issues then you either have hard tires and don't get much traction or you don't run the bike hard.

Not too many give them the workouts I do.

 

[Firerider]

When I was finally able to find a nice clean V-Max (85, ten years ago) I thought I would baby my baby with the good (synthetic) stuff. Two weeks later the starter clutch crapped out. Coincidence, maybe, but I haven't used it since and have had no further issues. I know this topic has been beat to death but I believe if you change your oil regularly any brand will be fine. I switched from Bardall to Rotella T this year.? If it shifts smoother and runs cool I likely will continue with it. I know a lot of you guys have poured a lot of time and loot into your bikes and it would be nice to be assured your protecting your babies so I guess the best advise is to use what makes you comfortable until someone can come up with an absolute answer...

 

[falling]

In the cases I mentioned above, Amsoil synthetic offered more grip than conventional oil in wet clutches. By a significant margin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[falling]

Here's a write-up on some of their MC oil testing:
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3327.pdf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sdt354]

Like mentioned, if you ride your Vmax easy, it won't matter. Put some decent sticky rubber on, get some extra power out of them and the stock clutch will slip with any kind of oil. Plus, I don't like dirty oil circulating in my engine for a long time. I don't buy the contaminants in suspension story. There is a reason most of us use Rotella 15w-40. The extra zinc is perfect for the Gen 1 engine. Synthetic? Great for the wife's Camry.IMHO.
Steve

 

[falling]

Agreed. I am just saying, if your clutch is slipping, the synthetic I listed above is proven to make it slip less.

The 4-spring Honda clutch is a proven weak design. Amsoil burned through thousands of clutches trying different blends until they got a mixture that produced certifiable results. I've seen the stacks of smoked clutches from their testing. It smells very bad.

You don't get long change intervals with this stuff. It is meant for maximum hook-up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[broncsrule]

Well I can tell you from experience after todays ride. The clutch slips severely with Rotella T6 syn. I put it in at the end of the riding season last year (because I use it in all my bikes). Went for a longish ride and had to limp it home. What kind of damage could I have done? Dropping the oil in the morning. Any advice on how to proceed from here would be great. Wish I would have read the oil threads more closely, just saw Rotella and thought i was good....

 

[sdt354]

Change the oil of course, then again maybe. There is always oil left in the engine you won't get out. I replaced all the fiber disk and scuffed up the steels because the p.o. used Mobil 1. Good time for an upgrade too. PCW sells a stronger spring, The DD clutch upgrade is worth looking at. There are other options too, all the way up to a lock-up clutch.more expensive of course. Maybe your clutch was due for a change anyway. Best to pull it apart and inspect.

 

[broncsrule]

Pulling the clutch apart might be out of my range? Dunno, never have done any clutch work. I suppose is it fried being I barely made it home.

 

[DMAN999]

Read this:
http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Replacing the clutch frictions is actually pretty simple.

 

[broncsrule21]

Thanks for the link. Doesn't look too bad.

 

[sdt354]

Thanks for the link. Doesn't look too bad.

It's not, and that link from Dennis is a great guide used by many of us. Plus you have us if you get stuck. The DD is a tough lever pull for some people,but it won't slip.
Steve-o

 

[grimmie]

I agree with the use non-synthetic oil. I personally used the regular Rotella and I changed it often. I did try the synthetic Rotella as well as Amsoil 10-40. My clutch began to slip immediately after switching to synthetic. I contacted Sean and he explained the clutch issue when using synthetic oils. He suggested changing the oil back to regular mineral oil and that I may have to do it a few times to get the clutch to clear up. I changed the oil back to the regular Rotella rode fairly easy for about 200 miles, changed the oil again, rode for another 200 miles and the clutch was fine. I did change the oil again at that point and I stayed with Rotella from then on. I changed my oil every 1000-2000 miles depending on what I was doing. I never had any further clutch issues & my bike was a beast.

 

[broncsrule]

It's not, and that link from Dennis is a great guide used by many of us. Plus you have us if you get stuck. The DD is a tough lever pull for some people,but it won't slip.
Steve-o

Where is a good source for the parts needed to service the clutch? Local dealer? An online source?

 

[Traumahawk]

Where is a good source for the parts needed to service the clutch? Local dealer? An online source?

That would be Sean.. [email protected]

That is his email....and the best way to get him.

 

[DMAN999]

If you want to order them online, I get my OEM parts here:
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1999/V-MAX%201200%20-%20VMX12L/CLUTCH/parts.html

But as stated above Sean can get you what you need as well.

As for the DD mod, if you do that just be sure to go easy until you're used to it because it transfers more torque to the gears and drive shaft.
Personally I went with a Barnett 6 spring clutch which is about 20-25% stronger than stock instead of doing the DD mod.