$74 for 4 orings?

[rebar]

I'd try to clean em up myself for free and spent a couple bucks on fluid and test them myself before I spent $300 on a rebuild of a set of calipers that are below par to begin with.

Good point.. But it was $200 for the fronts rebuilt.

I don't know why I'm so stuck on keeping it stock.
Its a good chance it will be for sale soon.

Whats the best procedure? Split the caliper and blow the piston out from each side plugging the other open ports. Or keep the caliper together and try to blow them out equally?

 

[[email protected]]

I would do side of the caliper then the other.

 

[rebar]

I tried blowing the piston out when split in half but couldnt block off the air with my third hand. Bolted back together with paint stir stick between worked for one side. What can I shove in the two small holes for the other side?

The piston has some pitting. Seal and dust oring look good. Is my piston worth a try?

 

[one2dmax]

Looks like that is mostly on the outboard side (pad side). I'd polish up the pistons like you would the scoops and reassemble and see how well it works.

Sean

 

[rebar]

Looks like that is mostly on the outboard side (pad side). I'd polish up the pistons like you would the scoops and reassemble and see how well it works.

Sean

That was the inboard. The outboard is worse.

I dont think I can, or Im not willing to spend a 1/2 day to remove those pits. Steel not aluminum.

Should I remove the seal and clean, or just clean the caliper with brake fluid and reassemble?

 

[one2dmax]

Not polish like the scoops. Pitting isn't going in to hurt too much.
Sean

 

[rebar]

Decided to pull the seals and dust oring. WOW.. no wonder they were leaking with all the crusty brake fluid behind the seal. Seal looked great after cleaning. Reinstalled everything.. Pulled vacuum and bleed.. Took it for a spin and I don't see any leaking as of yet.:clapping:

One last question. This isnt new.. but is it typical to be able to pull the front brake lever all the way to the throttle? And would installing SS braided lines fix that?

Thanks everyone!unk:

 

[gamorg02]

not with a stock master cylinder i don't think. my fjr makes it almost all the way, but if i did it while moving it'd lock the tire.

 

[Redbone]

Decided to pull the seals and dust oring. WOW.. no wonder they were leaking with all the crusty brake fluid behind the seal. Seal looked great after cleaning. Reinstalled everything.. Pulled vacuum and bleed.. Took it for a spin and I don't see any leaking as of yet.:clapping:

One last question. This isnt new.. but is it typical to be able to pull the front brake lever all the way to the throttle? And would installing SS braided lines fix that?

Thanks everyone!unk:

It could fix some of the sponginess; could also need a touch more bleeding?
My lever is "hard" meaning it travels 1.5" (end of lever) to lockup. My old brake calipers (stock '92) traveled further and felt "spongier" and definitely took much harder 4 finger pull for lockup. With my 'busa setup two fingers are all the pull I need for all the braking I'll likely ever need.

 

[rebar]

With my 'busa setup two fingers are all the pull I need for all the braking I'll likely ever need.

That would have been nice about 23 years ago when I ran out of road and luck. You ever ridden a cable guard rail like a school yard slide?:rofl_200: