Anyone in the Phoenix area with a bike lift?

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kozy

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I have to change the rear rotor on my bike and now that I live in an apartment, I have no garage and no bike lift or jack to be able to get the bike up in the air.
Is there anyone around me that might be able to help? Anyone???
 
Well there's always Sean's old trick:

- get a (big n strong) helper
- get ready to remove the wheel (loosen everything, caliper off etc)
- get something to rest the bike on once the wheel is off
- get helper to tilt the bike on the side stand, lifting the rear wheel off ground
- remove wheel
- put rest under swingarm and leave bike on it until ready to refit the wheel.
 
I also forgot to mention that the bike is lowered. I've got Progressive 11.5's (I think, not positive) on there. I know that the sidestand will be able to handle the entire weight of the bike, but do you think I would be able to tilt it up high enough to get the wheel out considering the lowered ride height?
 
I will have to try that. Just gotta find someone to help me hold the damn thing up so I can get the wheel off.
 
i'd help ya out if i was closer. someones gotta be nearby.

which rotor/pads u go with?

i was getting tons of squealing on my back brake from HH (semi)-metallic pads from ebc AND galfer, i' highly recommend going to either's organic non-metallic pads. EBCs are FA88 as a model #.
 
There are tons of people on this forum that are around the area, but not hardly anyone that's an ACTIVE member that posts.
I got a Galfer wave rotor and Galfer pads from Sean. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't squeal!
 
There are tons of people on this forum that are around the area, but not hardly anyone that's an ACTIVE member that posts.
I got a Galfer wave rotor and Galfer pads from Sean. I'll keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't squeal!

very nice. mine only started acting up in the colder weather. i think its because aftermarket rotors/pads cool down so much quicker, so u may not run into it.

i'm sure sean has the organic galfers on hand, if u haven't used 'em yet i'd recommend them. i also like the feel as they don't lock up as easy.
 
Ya I'd happily help too if I was any closer.. Maybe Buster has email addys for members closer to you that he could use to contact?
 
I'm going to try to sidestand methond first. I've got a guy that said he'll help. Plus I won't even really need to set the bike down...just pop the wheel off, change the rotor quickly, and put the wheel back on. Easy as pie.
 
Plus I won't even really need to set the bike down...just pop the wheel off, change the rotor quickly, and put the wheel back on. Easy as pie.

OK here you're making a little assumption..

To change the rotor, you will need an impact driver with the correct metric Allen bit, or you can forget about it. Those rotor bolts are in tight, and they have blue loctite on them too, so without the right tools you WILL strip them.

Then you will need to clean them off - all 6 of them - I found that using a spinning metal brush wheel works best (of course using gloves and eye protection), and then make sure to re-apply blue loctite when refitting them.

All in all, I would say it'll be a helluva lot less stress if you can make sure to be prepared to rest the bike on something while the wheel's off - a solid wooden box or strong plastic bottle crate may do the trick. I wouldn't rely on balancing it for more than a couple of minutes..
 
There are a couple of guys over on the 14 boards that live in Pheonix. I can ask them if they'd help you out if you'd like.
 
I'm going to try to sidestand methond first. I've got a guy that said he'll help. Plus I won't even really need to set the bike down...just pop the wheel off, change the rotor quickly, and put the wheel back on. Easy as pie.

You can use a bike jack like the one in the attached picture. I have a Kerker with no center stand and use one all the time. The bike rests on the pipes but that has never been an issue.
 

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buster, i think he would but he lives in an apt and doesn't have access to one.

yea eric dont' rush the rotor. i cleaned all the rotor bolts with a die when i did mine. i never needed and impact wrench just a nice 18" breaker bar and they all came off. they're not in tight (18 ft lbs or so) but the loctite does seal 'em up. someone, i don't know who, had put non-oem rotor bolts on my rear so they had a 4mm head instead of the stock 6mm and they all stripped when i went to tighten them back down. that was a bitch.

so basically what i'm saying is just take your time, i spent coutneless hours troubleshooting my rear brakes because of someone else's carelessness or something. not sure what yet.

if you run into any problems with the bolts i have 3x brand new ones i can send you in a jam. i'll PM u my #.
 
eh, just remove it... nobody needs a rear brake anyway. It'll save you some weight ;).
 
OK here you're making a little assumption..

To change the rotor, you will need an impact driver with the correct metric Allen bit, or you can forget about it. Those rotor bolts are in tight, and they have blue loctite on them too, so without the right tools you WILL strip them.

Then you will need to clean them off - all 6 of them - I found that using a spinning metal brush wheel works best (of course using gloves and eye protection), and then make sure to re-apply blue loctite when refitting them.

All in all, I would say it'll be a helluva lot less stress if you can make sure to be prepared to rest the bike on something while the wheel's off - a solid wooden box or strong plastic bottle crate may do the trick. I wouldn't rely on balancing it for more than a couple of minutes..

That is information that I did not know. Thanks. Although it kinda puzzles me...the other bikes I've had that were equipped with disc brakes didn't have loctite on the rotor bolts. What's the reasoning behind it on these bikes?

There are a couple of guys over on the 14 boards that live in Pheonix. I can ask them if they'd help you out if you'd like.

What the heck are "the 14 boards?"
Oh wait....ZX-14....duh....:bang head:

Hey Kozy:

I live in Peoria (just outside of Phoenix.) I'd be happy to help you. Send me an email if yer interested. [email protected].


Aaron ('89 Max)

Excellent. I totally wasn't expecting anyone from this area to actually reply to this post. Thanks! I'll shoot you an email in a bit.

buster, i think he would but he lives in an apt and doesn't have access to one.

yea eric dont' rush the rotor. i cleaned all the rotor bolts with a die when i did mine. i never needed and impact wrench just a nice 18" breaker bar and they all came off. they're not in tight (18 ft lbs or so) but the loctite does seal 'em up. someone, i don't know who, had put non-oem rotor bolts on my rear so they had a 4mm head instead of the stock 6mm and they all stripped when i went to tighten them back down. that was a bitch.

so basically what i'm saying is just take your time, i spent coutneless hours troubleshooting my rear brakes because of someone else's carelessness or something. not sure what yet.

if you run into any problems with the bolts i have 3x brand new ones i can send you in a jam. i'll PM u my #.

Thanks Garrett. Hopefully I won't need any of those bolts...hopefully. Every time I work on a bike or a car, I seem to break something. My wife dreads me working on stuff because of my track record with it. Not that it's always even my fault.
eh, just remove it... nobody needs a rear brake anyway. It'll save you some weight ;).

I'll take both brakes off in that case. Maybe the speedo too. Who needs to know how fast you're going. The wheels also....those are a BIG weight that I can get rid of.
 
oh and b/c the loc-tite likes to gum shit up, make sure u re-tap the holes. if memory serves me they're 8mm x 1.25 pitch.
 
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