Charging Issues.....

[dlopes]

The other day, I was crusing home on the highway and she just started sputtering and died. I tried to restart it and the battery was dead. I just installed a new stator, my battery is cherry, and my starter is new. Before I take her out, I wanted to make sure everything was working. Anyway, I am measuring the three outputs of the stator and I'm only getting about 300 mVAC at idle and when I rev it to 5K, it only gets up to about 1 VAC. I checked my DMM with the house power and it works fine. What could be wrong? Could the magnets be bad in the flywheel? How in the hell do magnets go bad? Anyway, please help. Thanks...

 

[sdt354]

I'd check the plug connections then ohm out that stator. Even though it's new.

 

[Buster Hymen]

Let us know the dc voltage at the battery with the bike at idle and at about 3k.

 

[SpecOps13]

Check your battery negative terminal to the frame for a bad ground, meter on a low Ohm setting. Simple and it's another possibility. Everything else could check good and this would be a problem. Just a Thought.

Good Luck...

 

[dlopes]

I'd check the plug connections then ohm out that stator. Even though it's new.

What are the resistance values and between what points do I measure?

 

[dlopes]

Update.....

My battery is fine. My ground is .3 ohms. I have a great quality digital multimeter (DMM) made by Fluke, so there is no low setting.

Ok, I took off the cover again and checked the flywheel because I was curoius. Anyway, I found the center magnet cover loose. I took it off and all of the magnets are loose. I can remove them if I want. One has a small chip missing on the corner and the loose piece was still stuck to the magnet. I took that chip out. Since all of the magnets are loose, is there a chance that would keep the stator from generating voltage? Even though they are loose, the centrifugal force should keep them in place. If so, I see that the magnets are secured with an adhesive. Can anyone suggest what type of adhesive I should use to resecure the magnets to the flywheel? Since they are loose, is there a way to check the magnets? Is it possible that the polarity of the magnets is off? Where would I find replacement magnets or is that just a million dollar flywheel replacement? That shit is expensive!!! I haven't checked the battery voltage yet at idle or 3K...but that is on my list. My ears are open and ready for suggestions....

Thanks

 

[one2dmax]

Not sure what kind of glue is used to hold the magnets in. I probably have a late model used flywheel on hand though it still won't be "cheap" it will be less then new. I'm not much of an electrical guy though it could be the regulator or stator. For some reason the stator voltage you measured on each wire doesn't sound right to me.

Sean

 

[satariel666]

The other day, I was crusing home on the highway and she just started sputtering and died. I tried to restart it and the battery was dead. I just installed a new stator, my battery is cherry, and my starter is new. Before I take her out, I wanted to make sure everything was working. Anyway, I am measuring the three outputs of the stator and I'm only getting about 300 mVAC at idle and when I rev it to 5K, it only gets up to about 1 VAC. I checked my DMM with the house power and it works fine. What could be wrong? Could the magnets be bad in the flywheel? How in the hell do magnets go bad? Anyway, please help. Thanks...

Be sure to switch to AC range at the meter when messuring the 3 pashes outputs from stator coil.

Lose magents and lose cover IMHO will not affect much at generated voltage.
But this can end with some drastic engine failure when it will lose completly.

Chips on magnets are not that important, I have a fella who use to run without magnet shield but...magnet's life will be shorter for sure.

I think no one will tell You what magnets they are and when to get them, impossible IMO.

You must find a heat and oil resistat glue, I'd say grab epoxy but im not familair with US market so I will not say which one exactly.

For me You have or fried stator or fried RR.

 

[dlopes]

The DMM is in VAC. I checked I with my house voltage and it read 120VAC just fine.

Ok...where do I measure the stator resistance? Do i measure between each leg to ground or do I measure between each leg? What is a good resistance indication?

I'll look for epoxy that will work. I'll post when I find one.

Another question. Even if the R/R is bad...shouldn't the damn stator generate a sufficient voltage??

 

[satariel666]

You need to messure resistance beteween each leg to each leg, 3 mesurments.
You should get all 3 reads close each other about 0,3-0,6 Ohm ish.

Next by that, messure each of 3 legs with GND (stator cover/core).
You should have nothing or many MOhms.
If You have something that means You stator need to be replaced or rewinded.

Do Your meter have a DIODE test?
If Yes then do You know how to use it?
By that test You can check the RR on the bench.

 

[dlopes]

"You need to messure resistance beteween each leg to each led, 3 mesurments."

When you say each leg to led....what is led? Did you mean leg to leg?

My meter does have a diode checker and I do know how to use it. I just need to know what measurements to make on which pins of the connector.

This is a dumb question, but I did just change the starter clutch and had to pull off the flywheel...thanks Mr. Morley for the help. Is there a way to install the flywheel on too far to where the coil pick ups aren't going over the magnets enough?? Just a thought.

 

[satariel666]

LEG, sorry simple mistake, fixed already.

From service manual:

 

[dlopes]

Ok...I'll check it and let you know.

 

[dlopes]

Ok...thanks for the diagram...but what test points are what?

There are 5 wires or test points listed. A, B, C, D, E. Which wire is which letter? There are 3 white wires going to the stator. Looking at the connector with the male pins facing toward me, there are two white wires on the top and one on the bottom. How are these wires listed on the diode test diagm? Also how are the black and red wires labeled on the test diagram? I ohmed out the stator and it's good.

 

[dlopes]

Ok...thanks for the diagram...but what test points are what?

There are 5 wires or test points listed. A, B, C, D, E. Which wire is which letter? There are 3 white wires going to the stator. Looking at the connector with the male pins facing toward me, there are two white wires on the top and one on the bottom. How are these wires listed on the diode test diagm? Also how are the black and red wires labeled on the test diagram? I ohmed out the stator and it's good.

 

[satariel666]

Ok...thanks for the diagram...but what test points are what?

There are 5 wires or test points listed. A, B, C, D, E. Which wire is which letter? There are 3 white wires going to the stator. Looking at the connector with the male pins facing toward me, there are two white wires on the top and one on the bottom. How are these wires listed on the diode test diagm? Also how are the black and red wires labeled on the test diagram? I ohmed out the stator and it's good.

Like shown on the pic: 1,2,3 are white.
4 is red and 5 is black.

4 and 5 leg are common so basicly they are + and - .

First connect plus from multimeter to + on the RR and minus from multimeter to each white leg - firts tree mesurments.

Next the reverse, minus from MM to - on the RR...

This will show You that Your rectifer is bad or not.

 

[hexec]

dlopes, I think this is what you wanted to know.

a=1
b=2
c=3
d=4
e=5

There appears to be a typo in the manual. The test table refers to test points a-e and the diagram labeled them 1-5.

 

[RaWarrior]

With the multimeter set to VAC, you should see ~15-20 volts between all three leg combinations at 1000RPM idle. Revved up, it will build to 60+ VAC. All three combinations should be very nearly the same.

With the stator installed, set the multimeter to ohms, put one lead on ground, and then the other lead to each of the three legs. There should be NO circuit on any of them. If there's any continuity, you've got a problem (shorted stator).

Now, still on ohms, test the resistance between all three leg combinations. IIRC, the manual spec is between .4 and .8 ohms or so for each leg. My new one from Rick's Electrics measures about 1 ohm per leg and works perfectly fine though. If it's zero ohms, you've got a short somewhere, and if it's more than a couple ohms, you might have a burned pole.

However, stators are tough to test since they can short only under load, or only when hot, or both. My original checked out fine using the multimeter (good VAC, no short to ground, resistance right on), but I was only getting like 12.5 at the battery. I replaced the R/R with a new MOSFET style, and wired it straight into the stator, and the output straight to the battery (eliminating connectors). The voltage was good, until the motor got hot. Then back down to 12.5 again. Even testing the stator when hot, it still was OK. However I replaced the stator, now I have 13v hot idle, and 14.4 above 1500RPM or so.

Loose magnets don't sound particularly great either, though I have a hard time seeing that completely conking out your stator output. They'd have to be drastically out of place for their field to not effect the stator.

 

[dlopes]

I hope you all had a great Thanksgiving!!

I just got a chance to troubleshoot her today. All of the diodes check good. Thanks for the help on the diagram. I didn't look at it good enough, but I should have seen that the 4 was the cathode and 5 was the anaode. Thanks again....I'll keep pluging away today and let you know what I come up with.....

 

[dlopes]

Ok....here is all of the info...

I pulled the flywheel and reinstalled it just to make sure. I cleaned the magnets and put them back in and installed the magnet cover.

I re-ohmed the stator and it is good. I checked all of the diodes in the R/R and they check good. I rechecked the ground and it's good. I checked the battery and it is holding it's charge. I started it up and I am getting only .3 VAC from the stator at idle and about 1 VAC at 5K. I disconnected the + side of the battery input coming from the R/R and it only reads about 1 VAC. Personally, I think this new stator might have something wrong with it, but I actually don't know what the fuck is wrong....all I know is that I am ready to shoot this thing.