Fargo's dilemma

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RagingMain

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Alrighty. Goes without saying but I am very disappointed.
I have it set up to run nicely on the street, 4th gear 4k rpm just a tad bit lean 15:1 but no lean popping or surging.
Highway cruising very nice at 14.5-15:1

This is what I have set up so far.
Mains 155
PAJ2 157.5, down from stock 170s to help with off Idle response and to help bring screws in from 6 turns to 3.5 turns. This is due to the stage 3 cams I just put in.
Needles 2 shims. Without the shims it runs like crap around town but now it has caused it to go super rich during the dyno run.
Will drop the mains a size or two and see what that does. After that I am not sure how to tune for around town cruising and performance at WOT.
Any thoughts, suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Might be hard to see but the red is the my pull in March, Blue is current pull.
Cheers
 

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regular V-boost at 6k.
The more I look at the graph I am sure I need to drop a size or two on the mains.
This has been confirmed by 3 sources so far, that with bigger cams in almost all situations the mains need to be dropped due to the increase in velocity.
 
Mains for SURE!

You're also looking at 13? rise in temp over March.

That's a little over a 1% drop in power.

Chris
 
question here as well, does the a/f meter not read below 10:1? that looks like way too flat of a line to be legit?
 
Man, it looks way rich in the midrange. 10:1 is usually all they will read down to.

I would say an easy 2 main sizes. Remember me mentioning we needed to use a 147.5 main on the local bike here with same cams, pistons, heads. You may be 150's.

Sean
 
Man, it looks way rich in the midrange. 10:1 is usually all they will read down to.

I would say an easy 2 main sizes. Remember me mentioning we needed to use a 147.5 main on the local bike here with same cams, pistons, heads. You may be 150's.

Sean

+1 to the going down 2 main jet sizes. I wouldn't bet against having to put the shims back in under the needles after you go down either.......
 
Man, it looks way rich in the midrange. 10:1 is usually all they will read down to.

I would say an easy 2 main sizes. Remember me mentioning we needed to use a 147.5 main on the local bike here with same cams, pistons, heads. You may be 150's.

Sean

Sean can you send me out some 150s & 147s please, along with the needles when you get them. BTW what needles do you get???
It flatlined in the midrange.
Question still remains though, how do I tune for driveability and WOT???
 
Sean can you send me out some 150s & 147s please, along with the needles when you get them. BTW what needles do you get???
It flatlined in the midrange.
Question still remains though, how do I tune for driveability and WOT???


i think ur a bit more knowledgable than me, but i followed a bunch of the different resources on here...

which one isn't as good as you'd like right now, just the WOT? the main makes a difference there, esp from 5k and up, where as drivability is more needle. mine needed to be richer and needed adjustables to get it right (still not sure which)
 
Ok guys I still need some help
The first graph is with my run in Aug and the new run, you can see the dates.
The differences

PAJ2
Aug 157.5
Now 170 (stock)

Mains
Aug 155
Now 150

Needles
Aug Stock 2 Shims
Now Adj 2nd clip from blunt end w/ 1 shim

This one is the first graph.
The red line is Aug and I was way rich in the midrange with the stock needles and 2 shims and still rich on the mains. This is why i dropped the mains from 155-150 and put the adjustable needles in.
As you can see it seems as if I hit the mains but am still rich on the needles.
And something is up in the upper RPMs cuz the bike is running like shit up there. The one difference I had is I put the full time advance resistor put in between runs so I figured that was the problem so I toook it out.

Here is the second graph
This one is still on the 150 mains but this time back on stock needles.
As you can see it seems like I got the midrange back in spec but now the mains are lean and I am still having trouble in the upper RPMs. So I dont think it was the advance resistor.

I have a couple of ideas where to go but I would like to hear from you guys.
Appreciate your help.
Oh yeah does anyone have experience in switching from a Kerker 4-2-1 to a Marks 4-2 as far as power???
Cheers
 

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thats all mains. u know i'm not the best at this, but why don't u up the mains by one? can you lean out the needle at all? goto a stage 1? adjust the a/f screws accordingly?
 
Looks like mains at least one size if you keep the stock needles, or the other needles and move the clip to lean it out in the midrange.

Sean
 
Looks like mains at least one size if you keep the stock needles, or the other needles and move the clip to lean it out in the midrange.

Sean

Since it is easier to change the needles I will lean them out first and go from there.

Any idea what might be the cause of the HP going all haywire in the upper RPM range??? :confused2:
 
oh jeeze didn't even look at the HP or torque. i think u'd be able to feel that, do you? could it be a dyno error?
 
Specifically what is it doing up in the rpm range? Spitting, missing, bogging, surging, poping, etc???

Notice the hp and tq graphs follow each other at every dip and peak? Very odd...
 
i feel like he would feel that in the top end if it was happening. was the bike burping or anything when she was on the dyno?
 
Specifically what is it doing up in the rpm range? Spitting, missing, bogging, surging, poping, etc???

Notice the hp and tq graphs follow each other at every dip and peak? Very odd...

Talking to the Dyno operator he said it felt like it was surging and missing.
No popping during the pull
I felt the same thing on the way home on the highway.
 

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