Lets the MoDs begin!

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BigIke

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
Location
Montgomery TX
The right turn signal was messed up so i got these

$(KGrHqV,!h8F!Fe2!,1,BQZq8VbGEQ~~60_14.JPG


There is only one rearview mirror, so i got these :)

$T2eC16ZHJG8E9nyfoUI(BQ7Kik4(ng~~60_14.JPG
 
I must be getting too old. Those pics are so small, I'm having trouble seeing them, even with my readers on.
 
You probably already know this but you will need resistors with LED signals. There are several threads about this. Without resistors, they will either blink too fast or not at all.
 
You probably already know this but you will need resistors with LED signals. There are several threads about this. Without resistors, they will either blink too fast or not at all.
That's why exactly I bought these (No resisters needed):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHROME-CLEAR-ARROW-TURN-SIGNALS-for-Yamaha-Cruisers/390671884541?_trksid=p2047675.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D17823%26meid%3D1708024937516954427%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D8234%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D390663953806%26
Also they are 3 wire so you don't lose the front running lights.
 
I have tried several sets of turnsignals. Always get three wire for front and back though. Every bike I have owned for over 25 years has had rear running lights in addition to the fronts. Usually just buy stock fronts and use in the back or get one of those gadgets that turns regular turn signals into both. (Priority-Lites makes them I believe). Closest I ever got to being killed on a bike in 55 years of riding was from the rear. I try to make myself as visible as possible...
 
I have tried several sets of turnsignals. Always get three wire for front and back though. Every bike I have owned for over 25 years has had rear running lights in addition to the fronts. Usually just buy stock fronts and use in the back or get one of those gadgets that turns regular turn signals into both. (Priority-Lites makes them I believe). Closest I ever got to being killed on a bike in 55 years of riding was from the rear. I try to make myself as visible as possible...

I agree w/you about visibility to the rear. Those side-mount license plates/brake & running light additions are 'jes'-plain stoo'-pid!'

Here is what I have, and think it's one of the best additions to a bike. I have a couple of older versions.



Running, brake, and turn-signals in one.
https://signaldynamics.com/index.ph...age=flypage.tpl&product_id=117&category_id=70

Your visibility to the rear is greatly-enhanced, which anyone who has ridden behind one can tell you. Instead of powder-coated carb chains, or a remote leyden-jar holder, do your safety some good and try your hand at protecting your butt. :punk:
 

Attachments

  • HPFFA + FZR 4-5-11 009.jpg
    HPFFA + FZR 4-5-11 009.jpg
    42.6 KB · Views: 25
  • HPFFA + FZR 4-5-11 010.jpg
    HPFFA + FZR 4-5-11 010.jpg
    36.5 KB · Views: 24
Well crap, I'll look up what resistors are needed. The stock lights are only 2 wire in the front right? I just upgraded the H4 bulb and the turn signal wires were in there, only 2 per set though, i think.

The new H4 light was a big upgrade, but i'm still not satisfied with the output.
 
Well crap, I'll look up what resistors are needed. The stock lights are only 2 wire in the front right? I just upgraded the H4 bulb and the turn signal wires were in there, only 2 per set though, i think.

The new H4 light was a big upgrade, but i'm still not satisfied with the output.

Ditch the 5" stocker and get a 7". With a good lens and a 55/60 watt bulb you will enjoy a better nighttime ride. And you can always go HID.
 

Attachments

  • Hlight.3.JPG
    Hlight.3.JPG
    97.8 KB · Views: 29
  • headlight-Superbrace.jpg
    headlight-Superbrace.jpg
    87.4 KB · Views: 30
  • Hlight.10 frontview.JPG
    Hlight.10 frontview.JPG
    145.2 KB · Views: 31
Well crap, I'll look up what resistors are needed. The stock lights are only 2 wire in the front right? I just upgraded the H4 bulb and the turn signal wires were in there, only 2 per set though, i think.

The new H4 light was a big upgrade, but i'm still not satisfied with the output.

Fronts are 3 wire, rears are 2 wire. Running lights are in the front only stock. The way the ground is handled may make it look like 2 wires. I have put fronts in the rear to get running lights and also various aftermarket 3 wire sets for both. Right now I have chromed billet 3 wire for all 4 signals.
 
Ditch the 5" stocker and get a 7". With a good lens and a 55/60 watt bulb you will enjoy a better nighttime ride. And you can always go HID.

Was that Harley 7" an exact swap or was further customization needed? I wouldn't mind increasing my light output but at the same time I don't want to be fabricating custom hardware to make it happen either.
 
I like these too, but they would need modding too. me thinks

$(KGrHqF,!oEFIs1zt3VNBSP4cbbgzw~~60_12.JPG
 
Last edited:
O and guys, Todd already put the CBR rear brake light in. Would that help with the LED front blinker rate?
 
O and guys, Todd already put the CBR rear brake light in. Would that help with the LED front blinker rate?

I don't think that will have an effect. Guys on-here more learned than I in electrical matters will tell you, "the load (from the turn signals) presented to the circuit having the stock flasher relay must present the same load whether you have the stock turn signals or LED ones." Low-resistance, low-current-draw LED lights need additional resistance for the flasher to 'sense' the load is correct, which is why you add resistors. Just-like on your car, when a turn-signal filament breaks, your remaining light on that side 'flutters,' because the load the flasher relay needs to have to work properly isn't there any-more. The remaining intact turn signal filament on that side starts acting like a strobe light, rapidly-fluttering because the load is no-longer correct for the flasher relay.

Sometimes if you add extra lights, as for towing, you need to add a 'heavy-duty' relay to accept the additional resistance of more filaments being-asked to flash, though I think that the solid-state systems and CAN-BUS electrical systems of today's vehicles may have designed-in capacity for such-things, the system senses what is necessary, and provides it.

Here is one of the longest headlight threads:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=16747&highlight=headlight

And another, my post on my Harley lens is #26, but there are a lot more choices before & after:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=29953&highlight=headlight&page=3

The EMGO bucket comes in a couple different styles and finishes. The Harley lens I used fits it perfectly, and you can use whatever bulb you wish. I have a 55/60 w bulb and find it produces a much-better pattern and brightness than a 35 w stocker. I once had a 55/100 w, but the high beam's life is much-shorter. The new LED lights such-as Truck Parts offers look pretty-interesting. They have it in a 7" too, but they aren't cheap. There are a lot of LED add-on driving lights being released now, and the prices are slowly descending.

If you check CL, you may find a Harley guy who is selling his Softail headlight complete, the one I am thinking-of is a 7" though the Springer uses one the same size as our stocker, so skip that one. Look for one w/the 'jewel' in the center of the lens, and a mostly-clear lens w/o all the 'fluting' (facets) like the old seal-beams used-to have. Especially if you decide to go to a HID system in it, you want clear, not 'fluted.' The Harley headlight has a bottom-mount like our stocker, though I've never seen what kind-of a match there is for mounting purposes. If you go w/the EMGO bucket, it has side-mount machine screw captive nuts inside the shell, meaning you need either 40 mm (pre-1993) or 43 mm (1993+) downtube 'ears' to mount that style. I recommend the double-bolt ones w/rubber inserts to minimize vibration to your bulb filaments. You'll have to remove your top triple tree to mount them, but they are much-more secure than the single-bolt downtube brackets w/o rubber between the downtube and the headlamp bracket metal sleeve. I would avoid the ones that 'split,' where you don't have-to remove the top triple tree to install them. They may have been great for your RD350 in 1974, but your VMax deserves better! A bit of water-soluble jelly on the insides of the rubbers will help them slip-over the downtubes; as they used to say on The Many Loves of Dobie Gillis, (Brylcreem) "a little dab'll do-ya!"
images
 
Awesome, thanks for the heads up!

I was thinking about some LED's in the scoops... Something to add more light but not hang stuff off the bike, i like the clean look it has now.
 
Good info Fire-Medic, you keep surprising me with how much you know about the Vmax and assorted mods to go with it.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
 
Awesome, thanks for the heads up!

I was thinking about some LED's in the scoops... Something to add more light but not hang stuff off the bike, i like the clean look it has now.

Here are some compact lights using LED's different wattage, well-designed & manufactured housings, small sizes: http://www.clearwaterlights.com/index.html
CW_Banner_Blk.jpg


I wish I had more space and skills to do things, and time to do them. Fortunately, I have a lot of acquaintances I can ask to help w/things and can usually get things done reasonably for the time involved. What I really-want is a pole barn but I don't have the zoning or the $$$ to do that.
 
I was thinking about some LED's in the scoops... Something to add more light but not hang stuff off the bike, i like the clean look it has now.
Hi Ike -firstt off, welcome to the forum! I've had electric horns in my scoop extensions for years now, but I plan on adding an air horn this winter (mounted below the lower tree), so the electrics will not be needed.
In their place I would like to mount my driving lights - either the Blazer MR16 bulb type shown, or the set of 3" 55 watt spot lights that I recently purchased.
The Blazer lights are fantastic, for the price ($30.00) The best feature is the MR16 halogen bulbs (the same as used in those ridiculously-priced BMW drivers). The bulbs are available in a wide range of wattages and beam patterns.
There MAY be enough room to mount Blazers behind the stock scoops, with perhaps some small modifications.
Cheers!
 

Attachments

  • P1010679.jpg
    P1010679.jpg
    106.6 KB · Views: 13
  • P1010688.jpg
    P1010688.jpg
    101.5 KB · Views: 13
Back
Top