What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2

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So I decided to get the Sylvania Silverstar for the bike, highbeam burned out. Ran to Wally-World and saved $6.00 over Autozone. Got it all hooked up and tried the high beam, nothing! Now I'm frustrated, pulled the switch housing off just to find that the high beam wire broke off the solder. I've only seen people solder, it looks messy and the rest of the connections are so close, not sure what I'm going to do. Perhaps I'll take it to ny local car stereo installer and see if they can do something that intricate. Any thoughts from people that this has happened to in the past?
 
I've been on vacation since 7/9 but finally arrived home late on the 19th so last night I had to fire up Redbone just to hear the rumble. It was raining so I couldn't ride but should be able to ride today though.:punk:
 
I've been on vacation since 7/9 but finally arrived home late on the 19th so last night I had to fire up Redbone just to hear the rumble. It was raining so I couldn't ride but should be able to ride today though.:punk:

Welcome 'home' Brian! :clapping:

We've missed the Redbone Ladies......and you too, of course!! :biglaugh:
 
So I decided to get the Sylvania Silverstar for the bike, highbeam burned out. Ran to Wally-World and saved $6.00 over Autozone. Got it all hooked up and tried the high beam, nothing! Now I'm frustrated, pulled the switch housing off just to find that the high beam wire broke off the solder. I've only seen people solder, it looks messy and the rest of the connections are so close, not sure what I'm going to do. Perhaps I'll take it to ny local car stereo installer and see if they can do something that intricate. Any thoughts from people that this has happened to in the past?

Leave the wire disconnected from the switch, heat it with your solder iron and apply a SMALL amout of solder on the wire. Put the wire in place on the switch and heat it up. It should melt quickly and stick as long as you keep constant pressure on it. Doing it this way helps to keep the mess down, you don't have to handle the wire, solder, and iron at the same time
 
Had to jump start it to get home from work tonight:bang head:
Starter works great with jumpercables hooked up. Just went through my grounds couple of days ago. Maybe the battery or reg/rec. It's weird cause when you turn the key on head light is good and bright.
 
Fresh pavment:biglaugh: balding rear tire:biglaugh: Im thinkin , this is a good plase for a smoke show:clapping:had to stop for a cager anyway. tac it up, dump the clutch,:eusa_dance:holy shit! front wheels 3ft off the ground:confused2:,:hmmm:thats not spossed to happen ,let off, the front end came down hard, and off i went, went back past a few hours later and theres a strip bout four ft long were I thought there would be nothing. wheelie suprised me !
 
I forgot to post before but dissassembled and cleaned the carbs. That took care of my "running on 3" issue. I went for a 150 mile ride last Saturday and averaged 45 mpg with just a little bit of hooliganism. I'm running Morley's kit with stage 7 needles and Mikuni 150's. Next up, replace rear brake switch that crapped out.
 
well i finally started getting set up to make the old lady happy to ride again, setting up a stock fender with sissy bar, and ordered a maxgasser seat from rick (twistedmax). fixen it up to make easy swap out from the singleseater with euro fender to stock set up. swap out time approx. 1/2 hour. four bolts and simple wiring unplug, and plug ready to go. just need to get a little painting compleated on stock fender.
 
Last nite on my way home from bike night, my Max was wanting more. I found a nice road close to home and I than rode her how a Max should be ridden, in v-boost territory! After a few good runs thru the gears, I was at my street. I down shifted to turn make my turn and found out that I broke something inside. :ummm: I was no longer able to up shift. Lucky for me I was 1/2 mile form home. Time to turn some wrenches:bang head:
 
Leave the wire disconnected from the switch, heat it with your solder iron and apply a SMALL amout of solder on the wire. Put the wire in place on the switch and heat it up. It should melt quickly and stick as long as you keep constant pressure on it. Doing it this way helps to keep the mess down, you don't have to handle the wire, solder, and iron at the same time

Thanks for the tip, I'll see if I can barrow an iron, maybe go to radio shak for the wire, wish me luck:eusa_dance:
 
been noticing a slight drop in oil pressure. in the hot weather mine will idle about 1-3 PSI. then at say 5k rpms it will be at 40 psi. Its always 10 PSI per RPM, but it starts around 0 at idle (being 1k).

So:
idle - 1 psi
2k rpms - 10 psi
3k rpms - 20 psi
and so on.

anyone think this could be telling of an oring issue?
 
been noticing a slight drop in oil pressure. in the hot weather mine will idle about 1-3 PSI. then at say 5k rpms it will be at 40 psi. Its always 10 PSI per RPM, but it starts around 0 at idle (being 1k).

So:
idle - 1 psi
2k rpms - 10 psi
3k rpms - 20 psi
and so on.

anyone think this could be telling of an oring issue?

I could have swore that I saw some old posts on here with oil pressure readings someone was getting with a blown o-ring. Can't remember what they were though.

I've heard some guys say that they get a drop in oil pressure when their oil has a lot of miles on it. I don't recall it being a 10psi difference though.

Hot weather and old oil may be all it is. Maybe change the oil see what happens. Not that I need to tell you but checking it only costs some time, oil and a $10 gasket. Might be worth the piece of mind.

I'm still not sure if I want to bother with a gauge. It might mess with my head too much. I put in a COO pop stopper when I first did my exhaust and then put in Sean's HD oiling kit over the winter and used the COO stopper in conjuction with Sean's kit instead of the stock, rubber piece. Just seems like the stocker could be torn too easily if the elbow does try to drop a bit. The COO stopper is hard plastic so its not going to get shredded under pressure like a rubber piece. I figured I did about all that can be done to prevent the issue. Without the gauge, I'm living in ignorance and you know what they say about that...
 
I could have swore that I saw some old posts on here with oil pressure readings someone was getting with a blown o-ring. Can't remember what they were though.

I've heard some guys say that they get a drop in oil pressure when their oil has a lot of miles on it. I don't recall it being a 10psi difference though.

Hot weather and old oil may be all it is. Maybe change the oil see what happens. Not that I need to tell you but checking it only costs some time, oil and a $10 gasket. Might be worth the piece of mind.

I'm still not sure if I want to bother with a gauge. It might mess with my head too much. I put in a COO pop stopper when I first did my exhaust and then put in Sean's HD oiling kit over the winter and used the COO stopper in conjuction with Sean's kit instead of the stock, rubber piece. Just seems like the stocker could be torn too easily if the elbow does try to drop a bit. The COO stopper is hard plastic so its not going to get shredded under pressure like a rubber piece. I figured I did about all that can be done to prevent the issue. Without the gauge, I'm living in ignorance and you know what they say about that...

i'd be more worried if the curve wasn't still linear. or like 20 psi at 5k rpms. i remember at the brownie run last year andy was getting 20-25 PSI at around 5-5.5k rpms. not good.

yea i just don't want any more down time. i would say the oil pressure has gone down slightly since i ran 10-40 last fall.
 
I noted that my pressure has been running about what yours is Garrett. Only thing I changed was oil type I was using, went from Castrol to Motul. Am putting Castol back in this change, 20-50wt for motorcycles, and will see if the pressure goes back up a bit. I think that the Motul breaks down quickly under high heat, and it has been HOT here the last few weeks.
 
yea i'm not too worried yet. thanks for the vote of 'don't fuck with it'!
 
I noted that my pressure has been running about what yours is Garrett. Only thing I changed was oil type I was using, went from Castrol to Motul. Am putting Castol back in this change, 20-50wt for motorcycles, and will see if the pressure goes back up a bit. I think that the Motul breaks down quickly under high heat, and it has been HOT here the last few weeks.

Im running on Motuls also, switched from Castrol.

There're the rumors around that Castrol is no longer a good oil, supousdly they changed the company that used to made motorcycles oil for Castrol.
Not commonly known but Castrol was never making thier motorcycle oils.

Which Motul did you use?
Im running Motul 300V 4T Factory Line / Double Ester SAE 10W40 and I can say that is one of the best oils i saw in my life.
 
yea i'm not too worried yet. thanks for the vote of 'don't fuck with it'!

+1 Think an 'O' ring issue would show a greater drop than that Garrett....it's been real hot out there which is prolly causing the drop.

How's your high pressure at start-up? Still around 65 psi?
 
+1 Think an 'O' ring issue would show a greater drop than that Garrett....it's been real hot out there which is prolly causing the drop.

How's your high pressure at start-up? Still around 65 psi?


yea, my gauge stops at about 62, but unless its above 90 its always pegged at startup. if its over 90 it usually starts around 50-55.
 
yea, my gauge stops at about 62, but unless its above 90 its always pegged at startup. if its over 90 it usually starts around 50-55.

You haven't changed your warm-up procedure have you? Still give it time to partially warm up before taking off....never wail on it cold...right?

It would be very unusual for the o-ring to slip out under normal operating conditions, IMO.
 

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