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There are not many that the small end actually breaks off. And if it does you will be looking for a good used engine since it will wipe out the cases. Big end failures do happen and usually from hard riding before the engine has had a chance to warm up. The small ends will get loose for sure and...

I am taking one off a 97 (not sure on the brand). It mounts on the inboard side of the switch housing then reaches over to the grip. I didn't grab a picture yet. Maybe $40? Email me at [email protected]

Holy **** that thing is drowning. DJ190's are for under the slide (PAJ2) if you have surging while cruising MK170's (if original) are normally in the PAJ2 slot MK152.5's are standard mikuni main and the S7 would usually have you put in DJ 165's (not much bigger then the stock MK 152.5 The MK90's...

First pic is of a broken pinion gear. That diff is junk.

I think that's the standard Marks 4-2 system with the Marks mufflers. Same pipes but we use different mufflers (I am out of the full systems by the way and Mark has discontinued them). You can message Brian at [email protected] (if that is still a good email - it's been awhile since I...

As noted the stock mufflers are one assembly for both sides with the connection resonator between them. Tone and scavenging. The slip-ons do not have that and shed a lot of weight, add more noise, and easier to install then the stock mufflers. They do not add power so keep that in mind.

Email me at [email protected] but ebay may be cheaper route.

I saw that example in 2002 with the tuning forks and really liked that design. Guy didn't go on any ride outs with us for whatever reason (may not have wanted to spend all the time on cleanup aftwards). Was a nice bike for sure.

We have custom pan spacers but have not had the need to use them yet. It does preload the pan but it's had many sucessful installs without an issue. I will note about the longer bolts though since I have heard a few times over the years of this same problem.

Used is getting hard to come by these days. About all I have left is new Hindles available to order in.

While they are called a lock you can usually still twist them back off. Some models free up completely when you start to twist them.

The bolt in the center of the flywheel has an oil flinger/pump to mist the outer cover which in turn reflects it over the stator for cooling. The timing access is the small nickle sized plug in front of the cover. But, the bike will not be out of time. Likely you have either carb or electrical...

Stock is typically 168-172. But, each dyno is different and it would have been better to get yourself a baseline before the changes. Still, I would expect a bit more like into the 180s with the cat elimination/slip-ons. I would have expected like 400 hp with how much the mafia hype but this...

You have not mentioned if for gen 1 or gen 2. I likely have both. Including modified lowered stock stands for gen 1's which are better then the adjustable aftermarkets (which I have those too).

Pau Novak did a high boost with Methanol Injection on a 1517 big bore with big cams and a lot of head work. He was still unable to get over the 200 rwhp mark so keep that in mind when building your project.

I have 2 brand new mufflers $500 each and I have one rougher one (need to see how well it cleans up). These would be the proper 2.5" ID for the 4-2-1 header. If you have the slip-ons then you need a 2" ID which I think I have one used around here. Email me at [email protected]

Here's a cleaner LED conversion we offer on the rear (and possibly the brightest light out there - Running and Brake)

We did Redbone probably a decade ago.

How do you guys get so many miles on your tires lol? I'm not even at 1000 miles and quit trying to count the number of rears on it.

These are 4140 cranks. About as good as you can get for an OEM. Not the ****** two (or more) parts that are common in other models that then have to be pinnned and welded to hold up to any power. You can get pretty rude with them.