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If the air and fuel system checks mentioned above do not reveal a fault, then what actually happens when you synch the carbs is that you are ensuring that the brass discs in the carb intakes are all in the same position on their throttle shafts. It may be useful to remove the airbox and have a...

I had the same problem with my Vmax a few years ago, but I was lucky and managed to drill out two of these screws without damaging the original thread. if you don't want to or cannot replace the carb body you have two separate problems here, one is to remove the broken extractor and the second...

The gen 1 front cylinder head comes off if you remove the front engine mounts, slacken/remove the rear ones and pivot the engine rearwards in the frame. The rear cylinder head no chance unless you remove the studs as Parminio says, but it would be easier to take the engine out for sure.

Well Dream V4 has designed his zero torque engine, now he is working on some 1970's disc brakes. Will he complete his design with some girder forks, 27 inch wheels and some variable ratio pulleys for the leather belt final drive?

I saw what DreamV4 wrote and was going to write exactly what MaxMidnight wrote but he did it for me, quicker than me and better than me. Vboost is simple, clever, works well and sold thousands of bikes.

One of my greatest triumphs (no not a Speed Twin) was when I drilled out a Vmax pilot screw (I call it an air screw) successfully. One slip and I would have been looking at that parts diagram above. I have protected all four of my air screws now by tapping out the recess drilling (to M7 x 1.0mm...

It is engine out and split crankcases to remove the pistons, so definitely try everything else first!

Yes I am a Yamaha fan! I am sure that your clutch lever is fine now. It is always pleasing to modify a worn part to something better than original instead of fitting another part that will also wear out. Thanks for the tips on the brake caliper pistons. When I stripped the 6 piston calipers on...

I agree with you Max. I stripped my 35000 mile engine down to the last nut and bolt after I bought the bike in 2016 and one of the first things that I saw was the displaced O ring. All engine parts were within Yamaha specification and there was no visible nor measurable damage. From memory the...

I bought my Vmax in 2015 and commenced a nut and bolt restoration which is documented in great detail here: Yamaha Vmax 1200 restoration by Stephan Morris She now lives happily in my garage with my 2nd Gen VMAX, XS1100, FJR1300 and XJ900.

I did not know they did different silencer lengths! This was from about 2015. I must admit it is louder than I would like, but MOT testers do not seem bothered and it is not offensively loud. Here are some pictures of the system on the bike. There is a lot more detail here if you are...

I agree with you that compression test results are not significant for this fault diagnosis. If it was a coil two cylinders would be affected. Carbs look perfect from the photos you posted. If it was the V boost mechanism two cylinders would also be affected. I also agree with you that this is...

I fitted a Black Widow stainless steel system to my generation 1 1996 bike and it fitted and worked extremely well, but it does use the standard rear headers because they are stainless anyway so does not solve that problem for you.

The graphite seals are delicate and expensive. As you say very difficult to assemble the system without destroying them. I just used silicone sealant. You can use as much as you like, it works fine, seals well, is not affected by heat and costs next to nothing.

For the rear headers have you checked that you have this part - #6 1FK 14618 00 RING, STOPPER 2 ? If that was not in place then as you say you can tighten the clamp as much as you like and the header will still pull out.

The 6mm thread is in the crankcase, not the thermostat housing so best tap out to 7mm and drill the plastic thermostat housing to take the 7mm bolt.

Try getting an engineering business to make you a bush that has an external thread which you can drill and tap into the carb body, and the M6 x 0.5mm internal thread you need for the air screw.