1988 vmax

[Pissed off Veteran]

I started the vmax without air box on to make sure all slides were working in all carbs and they were. I couldn't rev the the bike pass 4000 rpm without in cutting out so I put the air box back on and the bike ran perfect. My question is, is this normal on vmax without air box to run like that? Air bleed screws are visible.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes, it needs the airbox to rev higher.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Thanks Medic I was seeing dollars signs...lol. Going to change all the fluids.

 

[Fire-medic]

Thanks Medic I was seeing dollars signs...lol. Going to change all the fluids.

Yes, a good idea. Make sure the coolant is aluminum-compatible.

Using the reverse-bleed will make an easy job of the brakes and clutch. Changing the brake fluid wherever it's used, every year or two will help preserve the function of the brake components.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

What parts do I need to take care of this coolant leak? Looks like just a thermostat gasket and oring?

 

[Fire-medic]

I use a short piece of clear plastic tubing and a syringe I buy at the pharmacist's, you don't need a prescription for a syringe, it's a 60 ml (CC) syringe w/a conical tip on it which accepts the clear plastic tubing I.D. tightly. Read further below the links to see another source.

If I am installing a rebuilt slave or a new one, I fill it w/fluid on the bench, hand tighten the bleeder, and install it. I have some rubber plugs I use for the extension to the clutch line, friction-fit. Once the slave is bolted up, I remove the rubber plug for the stock rigid line, though you may have a SS flex line, I think, should be no-difference. Connect it. I usually leave the master cyl dry and just begin using the syringe to push fluid into the system from the slave bleeder. I use a teeny hose clamp to hold the tubing to the bleeder, and loosen the syringe so the tubing and bleeder can revolve either open or closed, depending on what I am trying to do w/it. Close the bleeder if you need to re-fill the syringe. Remove the syringe from the end of the tubing, and fill the syringe, and when you re-connect the filled syringe, if there are air bubbles in the tubing, a bit of 'pulling-out' pressure on the syringe stopper (the plunger) will allow the bubbles to move into the syringe body, and float to the top, leaving you w/a full body of fluid and no bubbles. Open the bleeder valve again, and continue to push fluid up the hydraulic system until you see the fluid start to accumulate in the master cylinder reservoir. This will usually be announced by a multitude of tiny "fizzy" bubbles in the fluid, just what you want, as the fluid is removing the air in the system!

Keep doing this until you don't see the "fizzy" bubbles any more, an indication that you have purged the air from the system. It may be necessary to remove some fluid from the master cyl reservoir if it fills, and you still have "fizzy" bubbles. At some point, you should have fluid and pretty-much no bubbles coming through the big & small holes in the floor of the master cyl. You should close the slave bleeder, and start to pump the lever, which should very-quickly show you to have some immediate resistance, and you should have the sense that the clutch slave is moving the pressure plate into disengagement. CAUTION! If you pull the lever w/the reservoir top off, and it has bled then you will get a geyser of fluid from the tiny front hole closest to the banjo bolt! If you carefully pull the clutch lever, you can see the geyser, and just don't pull it rapidly which will shoot the brake fluid everywhere. I usually cram a bunch of paper towels around the master cyl reservoir and replace them as required. You can always replace the cap which is probably the best way to do it, be careful how-much torque you use the tighten the screws. I usually have a bunch of replacement screws on-hand for the reservoir cap. A tapered flat-head Phillips screw or an allen-head will work, and I have used a hex-head machine screw in a pinch. If you have problems with the Phillips head screws, I cut a slot w/my trusty Dremel & a cut-off blade, and use a good-fitting slot head screwdriver.

Now you pump the lever to a point of pressure, and open the slave bleeder, as you would in a traditional bleeding, and feel the lever go to the handlebar-DO NOT RELEASE THE CLUTCH LEVER! Hold the lever to the handlebar, and tighten the slave bleeder. Now you can release the lever. Do this several times and every time you do, in the clear plastic tubing and the syringe still connected to the bleeder, you should see a solid column of brake fluid slightly-moving with your efforts. By now, you should have a firm clutch lever w/very-little free-play, and a total release of the clutch pressure plate. This concludes your work. Make sure you clean the brake fluid thoroughly. Discard the used brake fluid, never return it to the container!

That's how I do it, and I have pretty-much given-up on trying to rebuild master cyl's, I just buy a new one if the old one is bleeding internally.

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=21799&highlight=clutch+bleeding

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=22061&highlight=clutch+bleeding

http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=31061&highlight=clutch+bleeding

Here is the thread where the pictures went out of sequence when the software was changed. It's harder to follow, but you can do it with a bit of care.

It talks about making a simple bleeder tool from parts you can source at different places. One I made, I did it with a 'flavor-injector' syringe I bought at my local supermarket, in the meats section. Then a trip to the auto parts store for a threaded wheel schrader valve like you have on a cast aluminum wheel. Finally, a trip to the hardware store for some flat washers and rubber washers with a wide size.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Could I bleed them the traditional way? hold brake lever, open bleeder screw when lever bottoms out tighten bleeder screw.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sure.

If you try reverse-bleeding, especially on the clutch master cyl, you will be glad you did.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Have syringe coming from amazon. Also what do I need to fix this coolant leak, looks like gasket and oring? That is the thermostat housing? Correct?

 

[MaxMidnight]

Sure.

If you try reverse-bleeding, especially on the clutch master cyl, you will be glad you did.

Same goes for rear brake.

Have syringe coming from amazon. Also what do I need to fix this coolant leak, looks like gasket and oring? That the thermostat housing? Correct?

It is the T. stat housing.
As you will be draining the coolant make yourself familiar with the correct re-filling process which is described on p 4-2 of the Service manual.
If you have a look at the relevant parts manual page it will show you the parts you (may) need.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Been ordering parts on Partzilla unless you know a better place. I do have service manual.

 

[99YAMAHAVMAX]

Fair comment if you intend to keep the bike long term but otherwise some JIS screwdrivers or bits would be a cheaper investment?
I never reuse the screws after removing them.

 

[Fire-medic]

I've been using ronayres.com

https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/c/yamaha_motorcycle/parts
for many years. If a part is back-ordered, you can leave your order with them, and when they receive OEM stock, they send the order.

Sean Morley [email protected] also has many OEM parts available, and you have the benefit of his knowledge of the VMax to help you, as well. He also has used parts, and so does CaptainKyle [email protected], and specialists like dannymax who is all things carburetors, and importany consideration as parts for some VMax carburetor applications are no longer available
[email protected]

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

wow, good info. thanks medic

 

[Fire-medic]

You're welcome, thank-you for adding your location. One thing we share is wanting to keep our motorcycles safely operable at reasonable cost. The guys who are 'parts-breakers,' which I believe is the English term not for someone who's hard on their equipment, but used-parts sales and procurement specialists, help keep our motorcycles going. Through our classifieds, members who have anything extra have a way to reach a targeted audience of specific consumers.

We should be glad that Yamaha has kept available most parts for the motorcycles we have. That, and the support to be found here in diagnosing, fixing, and enjoying our motorcycles. If someone finds that through the members network they were successful in getting their bike back on the road, through help in diagnosing, fixing or obtaining parts, please consider becoming a supporting member.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

I donated 20 bucks this morning Medic. I'm 63 and retired and still have the need for speed. I love it when telephone poles go by like a picket fence. I also love working on cars trying fix or restore them. I am attempting to repair/restore this motorcycle, keeps my mind busy and my hands. I have asked alot of questions on the forums and I am grateful for people like you who freely give there time and experience to others like me.

You're welcome, thank-you for adding your location. One thing we share is wanting to keep our motorcycles safely operable at reasonable cost. The guys who are 'parts-breakers,' which I believe is the English term not for someone who's hard on their equipment, but used-parts sales and procurement specialists, help keep our motorcycles going. Through our classifieds, members who have anything extra have a way to reach a targeted audience of specific consumers.

We should be glad that Yamaha has kept available most parts for the motorcycles we have. That, and the support to be found here in diagnosing, fixing, and enjoying our motorcycles. If someone finds that through the members network they were successful in getting their bike back on the road, through help in diagnosing, fixing or obtaining parts, please consider becoming a supporting member.

 

[Fire-medic]

Thank-you for the donation. I have no financial benefit due me from my time on-here, and in that, I'm like everybody else who is a member. I'm also retired, older than you, and see my participation here as a hobby/interest which provides me with the satisfaction of helping others while also helping myself. Seeing members work-through issues on their bikes with assistance from other members is a source of satisfaction. The collective memory of subjects, available with some time spent in the search and advanced search functions has benefited many members, keeping them on the road. Asking questions which have been answered before just means someone new will benefit from all that we do.

 

[Zaos]

Have syringe coming from amazon. Also what do I need to fix this coolant leak, looks like gasket and oring? That is the thermostat housing? Correct?

I’ve had that coolant leak before. You need a gasket and an O ring shown in the diagrams, the way to get it off is to remove the hoses and the two bolts holding the assembly on then just knocking the elbow loose from the assembly and it’ll pop off, make sure to change the o ring on the hose connection south of the assembly as it started to leak for me there when I did the change

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

I ordered the gasket and o-ring and a new elbow with the o-rings. I'll go look at diagram to see what this south of the assmbly o-ring is. Thank you

 

[Fire-medic]

One by one, eliminate the problems. End up with a trouble-free and reliable ride. Few bikes perform as-well as this first introduced in 1984 (as a 1985) motorcycle. Deep into the 10 second range with a skilled rider wringing every bit of performance out of it. (That would be Jay 'Peewee' Gleason. The original Kerker 4/1 was developed with his help. Even an average rider would be in the low 11-secomd bracket. Someone who knows how to launch, on a stock bike, could get into the 10 second range.