1988 vmax

[Fire-medic]

There is a drain screw on each carb if you want to leave 'em dry.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

My Vmax will be stored outdoors under-covers for the winter with a battery tender. Pain in azz to remove all the covers though. I put 1 cover on the ground, roll the bike onto it then pull it up around the bike securing it, then put a cover over the bike and secure that one too. My covers are not the amazon 20 buck cheap azz covers. Once that is done I cover bike with a canvas tarp.
I didn't see your post Medic, thank you

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Went to ride today and had no clutch. Pulled out slave cylinder and pulled off clutch master cylinder both have definitely seen better days, ordered rebuild kits for both.

 

[Fire-medic]

Do the master/slave & you're ready for 2024! How long since you completely flushed the brakes?

Your bottom-up/top-down wrap should help prevent issues. I have a Cycle Shell which I use for a riding mower, but they work well for motorcycles, and at no point is the wrap touching the bike. The covers are replaceable. Unfortunately, they may be out of business.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Based on my experiences, I also find it better to leave the carb bowls full over winter.

 

[Fire-medic]

Based on my experiences, I also find it better to leave the carb bowls full over winter.

I agree, but my winter is different from yours!

 

[Woody]

I go with carbs full.
Tank full with startron added.
Covered in non insulated garage. Battery tender .
And I never run a heater during the winter. Causes condensation inside and outside on the bike.I jave done it this way.for at least 10 years. And when spring comes.And I pull out the max.It has fired right up.And ran like a champ.

So I say leave everything full.
Cover as you plan. Battery tender on.and when the snow melts. Enjoy your max.
(FLY Eagles Fly)

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

I have new brake lines and pads to put on also Medic. I think I'm going to get a new clutch line also. I was trying to get some ride time before I dug into her again.

 

[sparky4123]

I get a tank of stabilized fuel into the bike, then run it long enough to get it through the fuel system and into the carbs. Then at least you have decent fuel in the lines and fuel pump which you cannot drain without huge effort. Then shut it off and drain the bowls with the bleed screws and hoses which should be there. Then don’t turn the key back on. If you leave fuel in the bowls it will eventually evaporate leaving sludge behind.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

I agree with you sparky4123, thanks man.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Anybody know what is causing this. I have this on both side-covers. I sanded and used acetone before painting.

 

[Fire-medic]

Something not removed, causing the bubbling and lifting? I do not know specifically what it is, but that's the conclusion I'd have. Some contaminant. Maybe a fingerprint from handling it just before painting?

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

I wear latex gloves and this is actually the second painting. I had it happen the first time so I sanded it all down AGAIN, wiped with aceton and the same spot. "Always something" Oh I sanded to bare metal also.

 

[Relic]

They make about a million different shades of nail polish. I was able to find a shade that was really close for touching up chips on the bike. Not my nails. I swear.

 

[Pissed off Veteran]

Quick question, how do you get the ball and socket apart on shifter linkage?

 

[Brett unsupervised]

Most aluminum parts have clear coat and they look worse after rubbing with Mothers.

The best solution is to remove the clear coat and then polish with a wheel/abrasives or wet sanding. Then the Mothers makes them like a mirror!

Hi radioguylogs .. Im stripping off the clearcoat from the sissybar and probably the riser with acetone -- after I clean and polish parts up again with a rouge wheel and then mothers, what is a good clearcoat to use to protect the metal and the shine. I assume there was a reason Yamaha coated it to begin with.

 

[Radioguylogs]

Yeah, Yamaha clear coated the aluminum parts because they oxidize so quickly when they stay wet.

My bikes don't get wet too often, maybe only a few time a year. I don't use clear coat. I just polish them by hand with Mother's every couple of years, and they are always looking decent:



On the V4MB site, one of the members recently recommended this product because he feels automotive clear coats yellow with time:
https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/...4035.794926819.1678071909-61808397.1678071909
Hope it helps!

 

[sparky4123]

A true Yamaha fan. I also have an all original 1979 XS1100 Special and a ‘79 XS1100 Standard as well. The 900 Seca is a rare and cool bike as well. Nice stuff!