1998 vmax weird idle/running

[Zaos]

Good evening, i have a 1998 VMAX that has been pretty good to me. However when I got it running I had just rebuilt the carbs entirely. Since the entirety of it running it has always had a weird idle. Sometimes itll shutoff at idle but run perfect with throttle cracked. I replaced the fuel pump and spark plug due to other issues and it doesnt seem to stall anymore but now while cold the bike idles at 1100, but when it warms up it gets to over 2k. Does this just mean I have my idle set too high and should be using more choke when colder? Another thing is the exhaust notes seem to indicate that the cylinders arent firing the exact same. Was wondering if this is normal or not as im getting some pops and noises on one side but not the either. One thing to note I have yet to sync the carbs.

 

[Radioguylogs]

The choke (enricher) should should be fully on when you start the bike. After it starts, the idle goes high to 3-4k in about 5 seconds. I turn the choke down halfway so it is around 1500 RPM and leave it like that for about 4 minutes while I gear up. I watch the temperature gauge, and when I can see it is climbing, I turn off the choke completely and start riding. The idle should be stable around 1,000 at this point.

You may need to sync before the it idles smoothly.

 

[putin]

The choke (enricher) should should be fully on when you start the bike. After it starts, the idle goes high to 3-4k in about 5 seconds. I turn the choke down halfway so it is around 1500 RPM and leave it like that for about 4 minutes while I gear up. I watch the temperature gauge, and when I can see it is climbing, I turn off the choke completely and start riding. The idle should be stable around 1,000 at this point.

You may need to sync before the it idles smoothly.

I turn down choke immediately to 1200 rpm when it starts, and start riding without proper warming. Then gradually turn choke off. That works in CA. There is also a "sweet" point on the choke curve - google it.
And absolutely nessesary to sync carbs. Tool cost about $40.

 

[Fire-medic]

Yes to synchronizing carburetors, and to setting the air bleed screws to get individually the highest rpm. That may take some back & forth setting/adjusting of both the synchronization screws and the air bleed screws. If the caps are still on the air bleed screw aluminum plugs, those need to be removed with a sheet metal screw piercing them and then pulling the aluminum plug out, accessing the screw behind it. The screw is usually something like 2-3/4 turns out from fully-in, snug but not tight. Turn each cyl's carburetor to get the highest rpm. If your two throttle cables have insufficient freeplay, the idle can 'hang-up' and be out of specification. The factory manual in the Appendix, shows proper cable routing proper hose routing and much-more.

 

[Dorney]

I turn down choke immediately to 1200 rpm when it starts, and start riding without proper warming. Then gradually turn choke off. That works in CA. There is also a "sweet" point on the choke curve - google it.
And absolutely nessesary to sync carbs. Tool cost about $40.

If you don't want the chance of the o-ring to come out of the oil pickup tube that's not a good practice to be doing. Just trying to be helpful.

 

[putin]

If you don't want the chance of the o-ring to come out of the oil pickup tube that's not a good practice to be doing. Just trying to be helpful.

Works for 10 years for me. And if i warm the bike for 5 min, my neighbors will kill me. And i hate bothering people like that.