85 Drag Bike Project

[naughtyG]

Me Likey!!!!

:th_bump_2: +1

 

[Storloc]

Jeff is that a turnbuckle where your shock goes???

Looks like a trunk lid shock...I wonder how she will handle with those? :rofl_200:

 

[dannymax]

Here is a pic of the bike somewhat assembled with the newly raked frame.

Me Likey!!!!

Morley, here is a pic of the rear seat

Nice rake job!! Got a good stance!! :thumbs up::thumbs up::thumbs up:

 

[hubeerjw]

Jeff is that a turnbuckle where your shock goes???

Mark, no wait... Fargo.... no..... is that Kloker? Your damn avitar pics are messing with me.

Anyway, yep, them there are turnbuckles, with 1/2" copper pipe and rubber grommets to give em that extra "cush". That is basically my mock-up "strut". I am not riding (or will not ride) with those on there... Good Eyes Fargo!

 

[lankeeyankee]

Making progress I see Jeff:clapping:

Next I would be welding up some foot peg mounts off the lower frame rails.

On a dragbike you want your pegs low so when your staging the heel and arch are on the pegs as your toes balance holding you up straight. I wouldnt use the OEM heavy clunker foot pegs, one they are heavy and 2 they are to high for a dragbike.. I would weld on some mounts to the frame and take a piece of aluminum and bolt em to the frame.
The foot peg will also serve as a mobile triangle kick stand at the track.

 

[hubeerjw]

Making progress I see Jeff:clapping:

Next I would be welding up some foot peg mounts off the lower frame rails.

On a dragbike you want your pegs low so when your staging the heel and arch are on the pegs as your toes balance holding you up straight. I wouldnt use the OEM heavy clunker foot pegs, one they are heavy and 2 they are to high for a dragbike.. I would weld on some mounts to the frame and take a piece of aluminum and bolt em to the frame.
The foot peg will also serve as a mobile triangle kick stand at the track.

Each time you post Lankee you say almost the exact thing I am working on... Check out the pics. I think the peg needs to be lowered and moved back a little, but it isn't too bad. I will probably leave it there for now. I have Morley working on a seat for me so I will probably wait to get that before going much further.

Let me know if you see something in my positioning that needs to be addressed.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[lankeeyankee]

Your a big boy Jeff, traction shouldnt be a problem!
Ok after viewing your pictures you are going with different drag racing postion then I am used to but its your ride so I am going to shoot an idea out to you and make you think, kinda like a physcoligist I throw things out and it will hit you kinda answering your own questions.

1) When you are staging a dragbike its very (VERY) critical during staging that you go in the same depth each and every time. same depth I mean within 1mm. This is done by eye contact with the pre stage and your forward movement with your TOES! not flat footing in, but tip toeing in,, in very small increments. (Yes I was a slow stager) This effects roll out, roll out works with the reaction of the christmas tree and also minor 60ft times less then .001 so thats no worry, but if you are wanting to be successful in bracket racing and picking up a check or trophy every once in awhile you have to be consistent in bracket racing. You are in a very important stage now with your body postion including your foot placement. Many things make up success in bracket racing. Pretty much when you are consistent you cant tell the difference of one pass to another even in slow motion, we have done this later after a race day to really dial in on how we did the same exact thing each pass, we are talking .001 of seconds!
You want your pegs to be low enough to where you can move the bike forward with your toes with the bottom of your feet on the pegs, TIP TOE STAGING, some do it and some stage flat foot.. If you are a pro street racer going for low ET disregaurd all of this cause pro street isnt narrowed down as close as bracket racing is..
Ok now that you have your foot peg height set you want a postion to where its comfortable during the transistion after the 60-80 ft mark when shifting into sencond gear, now you are going to get into the paint on the faux,, meaning you want to get your chubby belly into the paint and able to kiss the steering stem bolt,, STREAM LINE,, well as stream line as YOU can get! LOL! Fukin with ya so anyways./.. bottom line,,
Sit on the bike with your toes on the ground as you are staged in.
Pretent to hit the shift button and tuck your body in and legs in tight against the frame. do you feel as comfortable as you did in your stage postion? Adjust your footing for stage postion and streamline postion happy medium. and brake out the welder...
Hope that helps..

Each time you post Lankee you say almost the exact thing I am working on... Check out the pics. I think the peg needs to be lowered and moved back a little, but it isn't too bad. I will probably leave it there for now. I have Morley working on a seat for me so I will probably wait to get that before going much further.

Let me know if you see something in my positioning that needs to be addressed.

Thanks,

Jeff

 

[Bawls]

I think these are more like what he had in mind... you want to be able to get your feet really close to the ground so that there is no momentum lost by having to move your feet at all. I know that they're on a busa but it's just for reference. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. They were taken with my cell phone. The pics are of my friend brian's bike before he transferred to camp lejune.


One more thing. I can't really tell from the picture, but is your rear axle higher than the pivot point at the front of your swingarm? If so, that's not going to be very g

 

[Bawls]

I think these are more like what he had in mind... you want to be able to get your feet really close to the ground so that there is no momentum lost by having to move your feet at all. I know that they're on a busa but it's just for reference. Sorry for the poor quality pictures. They were taken with my cell phone. The pics are of my friend brian's bike before he transferred to camp lejune.


One more thing. I can't really tell from the picture as it may just be the angle that it was taken at, but is your rear axle higher than the pivot point at the front of your swingarm? If so, that's not going to be very good for traction.

 

[lankeeyankee]

I know this question is going to be asked..

Looking at the Booosa I see two places for footing..
I am hoping the peg behind the exhaust is used for the pit guy to push on during the return road..
If it is where the rider is placing his foot on a pass how does he have access to the rear brake? Unless he is running a slider clutch with the rear brake as the left lever and the front brake as the right lever.
I had the this setup on my ol bike. All brakes were on the levers on the bars. I dont think Jeff is going with a slider. I wish he would invest the 600.00 in a slider.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Hey Jeff these are what you need dude

10.00 bucks so far no bids good luck..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aluminum-Foot-Pegs-Dragbike_W0QQitemZ220339335033QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090105?IMSfp=TL0901051210006r30444

 

[lankeeyankee]

I know this is late and it should have been brough to your attention earlier but it just hit me now....

When in the process of building your dragbike you want to look at some of the rules such as AMA Prostar NHRA..
I know your just building this bike for fun at the moment but you may wind up getting addicted to racing as I did and want to start racing at events..
But you may not be within the rules such as foot peg height, max rake and trail, etc.. Here is an example of some rules in a class.. something to think about during your build.
Also makes for better resale if you decide to sell your bike to a racer. you can say it meets all NHRA rules etc.

http://www.amadragbike.com/news/templates/news_tmp.asp?articleid=128&zoneid=10

 

[hubeerjw]

I got a few more things mocked up tonight... I am in LOVE with this thing! Sorry Abe.... Your bike got put on hold for a few hours!!! I can't wait to get this puppy running. I talked to Paul (MadMax) again today and it looks like the intake I have for this uses nitrous as the inner-cooler.... pretty slick setup! He said if I got the correct pistons and rods (like many of you have mentioined) he said it is a mid to low 8 second bike!!!!! I'm just shooting for 9's and I have a long way to go. I think pistons and rods will cost me $2-$3k and that is something I can't justify right now.

 

[KJShover]

Looking sweet Jeff! Imagine back-halfing that chassis and running a chain Shawiiiinnggg:biglaugh: I'd also consider a steering dampener too.

Paul and his wife Elisabeth are good ppl. Always willing to lend a little tech info.

 

[lankeeyankee]

Looking sweet Jeff! Imagine back-halfing that chassis and running a chain Shawiiiinnggg:biglaugh: I'd also consider a steering dampener too.

Paul and his wife Elisabeth are good ppl. Always willing to lend a little tech info.

I dont know how a VMAX would react with a steering dampner, but I know my dragbike didnt like it once it got above 135MPH. But it was a mandatory rule to run one at some tracks. I removed my inner piston seals so it was physically on there but had no resistence.

 

[maxcruiser]

Looking great, Jeff - very nice progress!

Mike

 

[KJShover]

I dont know how a VMAX would react with a steering dampner

I have another one on order ( 1st one was way cheap, but what do you expect for $25 ), so this summer I can give a personal write up, I had 1 on my old drag bike it was a rock solid ride. The one on my XS worked well. I've talked with a friend of mine that has one on his and I've typed at Rusty about the one he has.

The get good reviews, Ralph runs his on the lightest setting around town, and on 4 down the track.

 

[4gasem]

With that much rake I can't see needing a shimmy shock but I may be wrong.

 

[lankeeyankee]

If everything is straight )frame rake weld job, swing arm, rear axle alignment is dead nuts you should have a straight tracking dragbike.
Steering dampners were mostly used on sport bikes when they were first invented to help with the load transistion going to the front end under hard braking during turns..
Only load transistion on a dragbike is after crossing the finish line but most problems are due to the low tire psi ran in the rear slick to where they call it a basketball bounce effect when the rear of the bike begins to bounce due to the sidewalls flexxing.
But a steering dampner would add a nice appearance with the clip ons:rofl_200:

 

[KJShover]

But a steering dampner would add a nice appearance with the clip ons:rofl_200:

and help keep in the AMA Dragbike rules :biglaugh:

2.4.6 STEERING DAMPER
Mandatory on all bikes 9.20 or quicker or 140 mph or faster, and may not act as fork stops.