adjusting engagement point

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sidwin

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I notice that if i have the clutch fully grabbed that it feels the clutch isn't quite disengaging the tranny. I've never had a bike with a hydraulic clutch before and I don't see any adjustment screw. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
Sid
 
There is no "adjustment screw" like on a cable clutch. It sounds to me like you have either air in the clutch line OR your fluid is old and breaking down. My advice would be to flush out the clutch master cylinder and line with fresh fluid, make sure there are no air bubbles, and go from there.
 
Yup. Only if you're gonna flush your clutch M/C, line and S/C, bear in mind that you'll need either a MightyVac or at least a syringe to reverse-bleed it.

When I did mine I tried bleeding it the conventional way (like a brake line) and failed miserably. Reverse-bleeding (injecting brake fluid with a syringe into the bleed nipple) worked a treat though!
 
Yup. Only if you're gonna flush your clutch M/C, line and S/C, bear in mind that you'll need either a MightyVac or at least a syringe to reverse-bleed it.

When I did mine I tried bleeding it the conventional way (like a brake line) and failed miserably. Reverse-bleeding (injecting brake fluid with a syringe into the bleed nipple) worked a treat though!

You have to be VERY careful with a MightyVac when bleeding the clutch line! If you are not you can pull air in around the piston in the slave cylinder and make it worse. I use another method that works well for me. I zip tie a piece of Tygon tubing to the bleed nipple that is long enough to be hooked over the handlebars and into a bottle that I have hanging from the bar. Open the M/C cover, open the bleed nipple, and pump away on the clutch lever refilling the M/C as needed. This way BOTH sides of the slave cylinder are higher than the line running along the frame. If you look you will note that there is a distinct sideways U shape to the line which will cause air to get trapped below the M/C, but above the bleed nipple. The pressure of the fluid in the tubing that is higher than the bend in the clutch line forces air bubbles to move and come up and out of the slave cylinder, up the tubing, and into the bottle which will also collect the old fluid as well.
 
what makes you feel like its not fully releasing?
 
i started the bike in gear with the clutch fully depressed and the bike lunge forward.
 
i just changed the fluid yesterday. I have a vacuum pump that hooks up to my compressor and i manually pumped the clutch until i saw it was clear and bubble free. I like to hold the lever 3/4 of the way in while tightening the valve. I'll do it again...

Thanks,
Sid
 
i just changed the fluid yesterday. I have a vacuum pump that hooks up to my compressor and i manually pumped the clutch until i saw it was clear and bubble free. I like to hold the lever 3/4 of the way in while tightening the valve. I'll do it again...

Thanks,
Sid

Leaving the lever pulled in over night seems to help allow the air to come out too. I just tape it against the bar.

Keep in mind that sometimes the clutch plates can stick to one another and make it jump forward. This is why you should always have a hand on the brakes when engaging into 1st.
 
Agreed, the bike will lurch forward when starting in gear (the colder it is the harder it will jump) as well as putting it into gear. The oil that is between the clutch plates will cause some of that friction.

Sean
 
Did you flush your slave cylinder though? The crap may be in there..

i filled the reservoir with dot4 fluid, used the vacuum pump, open the bleeder valve sucked it out till it was clear. then refilled reservoir and pumped slowly 3/4 of the way by hand and held it on the last one and then closed the valve.

doesn't that clear the slave cylinder too or am i missing something?

i never had my other two bikes lunge forward when starting in gear so that's why i thought perhaps i need to adjust the engagement point.

Thanks,
sid
 
nah mine does that definitely, i wouldn't worry about it. wouldn't a good way to tell would be to put it in gear and hold it with the brake and see if the RPMs die at all?
 
How does the clutch lever feel now? If it's right you should be able to tell from the pressure needed to pull it.
If it still feels like it's pulling only in the last bit of travel, you will need to get at the slave cylinder and flush and inspect.
 
the lever feels great. the fluid in there was horrible. there is good pressure on the clutch lever. feels like a car clutch pedal. it didn't think that was normal for the bike to lunge if you have the clutch lever full grabbed and started the bike

should i rebleed the system again?
 
For some reason (prolly heat) the fluid in the clutch line always goes dark quite quickly.

If it feels fine, then just have a go - start, warm up a little, grab the clutch, makes sure to hold the front brake tight, and hit first gear and see what happens. Rememebr when cold it's ok to stick a little, but once unstuck it shouldn't lunge at all anymore.

If it still does I think your clutch S/C will need to come out for inspection.
 
The fluid will darken some but should still stay somewhat clear. It won't hurt it all that much anyway so not a huge deal.

Sean
 
i had the same issue and ended up rebuilding the slave. super inexpensive to do (once took apart could see it needed it)and with a fluid chg for sure will get rid of your problem.

edit: mine was worse once it warmed up, perfect when cold= rebuild on slave cylinder
 
cllutch needing adjustment?

ok guys have a question i have an 85 vmax that i start up let it warm up after sitting for a few days.i press the clutch in and put it into gear and i can feel it pulling ahead as though the clutch isn't fully depressed.then when i try to find neutral it needs to be presuaded to do so like it is jammed in gear>is there any way of adjusting these clutches or what other option do i have? thanx
 
Re: cllutch needing adjustment?

another thing how do change and bleed the clutch fluid and where do i ?check fluid level to see if that is an issue?
 
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