adjusting engagement point

[dannymax]

Re: cllutch needing adjustment?

The clutch plates will tend to stick together after sitting a little while...often just overnight. That's prolly what you're feeling.

Finding neutral is also normal, check the oil thread, some oils are better than others in helping this. I like Rotella T 15W40, as many others do.

Follow the line from the master down to the middle gear cover...under the rubber cover is the slave cylinder, the bleeder is on top of that.

 

[4gasem]

Merged with existing thread... Make sure you do a search before posting a question. If there's an existing thread use it to ask questions or glean info from.

 

[SpecOps13]

When I bought my 94 VMax in 2006, the clutch, even when fully disengaged would allow the bike to Jump when put in gear. I replaced the existing fluid and ended up with a clutch that disengaged within the first 10% of the travel. Other bikes that I have are more mid range of the clutch lever travel so it was awkward making smooth shifts when switching from bike to bike.

I made the adjuster that's shown in the photo to eliminate the last 1/3 to 1/2 of the lever travel. The bolt with a blue tip. Several of you have taken my bike out for a spin at "Tech Days" here with CaptainKyle. Not one comment about this weird arrangement.:biglaugh: Doing this eliminated the extreme clutch lever travel and allows the bike to be placed in gear without a learch. It makes for some really good speed and power shifts.

I'm trying to make everything as perfect as I can on my bike and I've always questioned why my Cure was necessary.

My question now is where in the lever travel is the norm for a clutch to start to engage? Where in the levers travel does the clutch start to engage on your VMax/s?

Even though mine engages when the lever is almost all the way out, there's no slip, the clutch is fully engaged. A short pull is good for most shifting. I left as much movement as I did to eliminate the going into gear learch.

I almost feel that I need some air in the system to get the engagement at a normal point.:bang head:

Thanx,

 

[MikeTD3]

My clutch lever engages about 3/4 of the way out, which is perfect for 2 finger clutching.

 

[gamorg02]

can't remember where since i run fjr masters know with adjustable levers, however, mine always has jumped the first time its put in gear of the day. i think its pretty common.

 

[TogaTony]

ok, so I was riding today, first thing this morning after starting the max it shifted into first hard and with a slight lurch (normal). However, I rode this afternoon and not only was the shifting hard in every gear but if I pulled the clutch all the way in it would still crawl forward without the front brake on. After reading this thread, do I need to change the engine oil or clutch fluid possibly cleaning rebuilding the slave cylinder?? I have owned this bike since March and have always thought that the clutch engaged the transmission a little early, like 1/2" from being fully pulled to the handle bar. Anyone got any suggestions?

 

[naughtyG]

ok, so I was riding today, first thing this morning after starting the max it shifted into first hard and with a slight lurch (normal). However, I rode this afternoon and not only was the shifting hard in every gear but if I pulled the clutch all the way in it would still crawl forward without the front brake on. After reading this thread, do I need to change the engine oil or clutch fluid possibly cleaning rebuilding the slave cylinder?? I have owned this bike since March and have always thought that the clutch engaged the transmission a little early, like 1/2" from being fully pulled to the handle bar. Anyone got any suggestions?

How old is your oil? If you don't know, change it and keep a record of date and mileage - it's your best insurance against engine wear and failure

It sounds like you definitely need to renew your clutch fluid. Do your brakes at the same time - fluid is supposed to be renewed at least every two years as it absorbs water and stops working as it should!

The brakes are easy - just like any car if you've done that before. The clutch, however, is a bit more of a PITA: you need a big syringe to reverse-bleed (push fluid through the nipple and into the M/C reservoir to remove bubbles) or a MightyVac to do the job. Without it, it's no fun LOL.

 

[TogaTony]

Thanks Naughty G, I just changed my oil about 2500 miles ago. I did however drove about 1500 miles in 3 days. Don't think that would be the issue though. Don't know when the fluids have been changed (brake or clutch). I will start there.

 

[dannymax]

The V Max runs a 'wet clutch', a lot of the lurching forward/difficult neutral/hard shifting issues can be remedied by going to a different brand/weight motor oil.

There are endless discussions available on here regarding oils, run a search on 'the oil thread' or something similar.

Pinnacle, do a search on clutch/brake bleeding....plenty of discussions. thevmaxrider mentioned his favorite method previously in this thread, for starters.

There is a site glass in the clutch master for checking fluid level.

 

[tugla]

also could be if its as bad as mine, might need a clutch master rebuild. gonna do mine soon, hopefully solves the issue im having.

 

[jedi-]

Issues I have in the past on both bikes was air getting into the clutch line.
The tiniest amount causes hard shifting, trouble finding neutral, creeping at traffic lights etc. Not a pleasant feeling at all having a bum clutch.
A quick bleed always fixed it.

 

[maxist]

My clutch travel seems to vary over temperature. When cold the clutch starts to engage at about 50%, when hot, and after running for awhile around the last 10%. Rear brakes get a little softer over temp too.

I can rarely get into neutral from 1st gear and always find it with a slight tap from 2nd, unless I'm speed shifting and then I occasionally find neutral 1st to 2nd.

Later this fall I'm planning to replace the brake and clutch hoses, fluids and shift segment. I also have a starter clutch I'm replacing but that's another thread.

 

[gamorg02]

ya know i noticed that on my stock master cylinder (front) with stock lines. i have since gone to an fjr and stainless, but it was weird nonetheless.

 

[maxist]

Why did you go to the fjr master? I'm thinking the ss lines are the way to go too.

 

[gamorg02]

because i sent my clutch master and lever to gary to have the 'clutch mod' done (remove the slop from it) and he never sent it back. This was in January. Mike had the pair of masters for sale for the same price as used OEM masters.

 

[[email protected]]

I'm in the same boat as Garrett. Gary has had my clutch master since spring. I took a chance on a master from an 06 concours after getting some advice from coffeebrake and it seems to work well enough. It, like the FJR, has a 14mm bore. It has an adjustable lever but its pretty much useless to me because I have to have it adjusted all the way out to get enough travel to disengage the clutch. My clutch starts to grab about 1/2" off the grip and if fully enganged about halfway out with this setup. Not sure how I feel about the setup yet but at least it makes the clutch pull easier with the DD mod. Effort is similar to stock.

 

[gamorg02]

haha i don't like the fjr brake master as theres like 1/2-3/4" of play before it engages....

 

[sidwin]

When I bought my 94 VMax in 2006, the clutch, even when fully disengaged would allow the bike to Jump when put in gear. I replaced the existing fluid and ended up with a clutch that disengaged within the first 10% of the travel. Other bikes that I have are more mid range of the clutch lever travel so it was awkward making smooth shifts when switching from bike to bike.

I made the adjuster that's shown in the photo to eliminate the last 1/3 to 1/2 of the lever travel. The bolt with a blue tip. Several of you have taken my bike out for a spin at "Tech Days" here with CaptainKyle. Not one comment about this weird arrangement.:biglaugh: Doing this eliminated the extreme clutch lever travel and allows the bike to be placed in gear without a learch. It makes for some really good speed and power shifts.

I'm trying to make everything as perfect as I can on my bike and I've always questioned why my Cure was necessary.

My question now is where in the lever travel is the norm for a clutch to start to engage? Where in the levers travel does the clutch start to engage on your VMax/s?

Even though mine engages when the lever is almost all the way out, there's no slip, the clutch is fully engaged. A short pull is good for most shifting. I left as much movement as I did to eliminate the going into gear learch.

I almost feel that I need some air in the system to get the engagement at a normal point.:bang head:

Thanx,

ok what does the bolt do to the clutch engagement point?

Thanks,
Sid

 

[TogaTony]

So I have been searching through all the threads on clutch bleeding, slave cylinder rebuilding and the things I am not finding are probably elementary questions but here goes...If I am going to rebuild the slave cylinder what is the part number/kit number I need to order? Also, what is the best way to drain the fluid or empty the fluid so I can rebuild the slave cylinder? If there are some post on here that answer these...sorry...could you point me in the right directions?? Thx.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Seal kit # is 26H-W0098-00-00. You will also nee a middle gear gasket, 3JP-15461-01-00.
You will also need to aneal or replace the two copper washers that go either side of the clutch hose banjo and the smaller copper washer that goes under one of the lower middle gear retaining bolts.

To drain leave the master cylinder lid on, undo the banjo bolt and put into a glass container.
Suggest that you also put some newspaper down, particuarly if working in the lounge. For some reason wives and partners get a bit prickly if you spill oil onto the carpet!
When you have the banjo in the container remove the m.cylinder lid and the fluid should flow.

When tou have done the job make sure that the extension piece that the banjo is still tight. It's possible to loosen the when undoing the bolt.