Another Noob to the Vmax world

[Krohsis]

Hi guys and gals.

I just got a 2002 Vmax. It is a bit of a barn find which is good and bad as you all likely know. Only 5000 miles on it, but has spent the last 15 years in a widow's garage. I bought from a guy who was the second owner and had it for about 8 months until I bought it from him. He had done some of the restoration items and I have gone through it for most remaining things, but there is more to do.

Never been a cruiser guy. For street riding I have been a sportbike guy. Started riding 56 years ago, and have successfully raced all of the major types of motorcycle competition. So I guess you can say I'm an enthusiast and live the culture. Now that I'm older, I have hung up my one piece leathers and me and the wife just plan to do some short day trips, etc. with our friends. The Vmax, which I have named Disorderly Conduct, will be our putt around bike. The Vmax's generally poor handling will force me to behave in the twisties. I just sold my Hayabusa and I still have my TZ250, but need to sell it one day.

I'm here because the Vmax is new to me. I only know a little about them, and have concerns with their handling issues, mostly the headshake problem that seems to have plagued the bike for both generations now. What little I have read on the problem, there is no REAL fix. There seem to only be bandaids that work to some percentage to fix it, but nothing seems to be the thing to cure it once and for all. I'm hopeful someone here will correct me on this and give me the Holy Grail info.

I look forward to meeting you and learning from all of you Gurus!

 

[Fire-medic]

If you do your own work, you know how to properly torque front end fasteners, ensure your fork seals are in good shape, use Race-Tech, Prog. Suspension or other fork springs, proper grade/amount of fork oil, RICOR, YSS, or Race-Tech cartridge emulators, tuned properly; steering head bearings greased and in good shape, no brinelling in the races, and torqued properly (Sean Morley's bounce test), and properly inflated tires. Ah, tires, if you want better handling from your VMax, go radial tires. At least you need a new rear wheel for 17" or 18" rubber, 5-1/2" bead width, and a front wheel widened to 3-1/2" bead width would be good. HH pads for the calipers, fresh brake fluid for the clutch and both brakes. There are many more things to consider, I'll let others add to the ideas.

 

[Krohsis]

Thanks for the reply Fire-medic.

I wasn't clear in my post, but so far no high speed wobble in this bike for me. But it hasn't been over 80mph in my hands, only riding it less than 50 miles since I got it and then went to work with restoration, maintenance and upgrades. The previous owner did have it up to higher speeds, 120ish, and said he got the onset of the wobble, the weave, but it never went full wobble on him. My concern with this bike and all Vmaxs is they are highly prone to wobble, and I want to avoid that.

I have done some of the above that you mention, new tires, fork seals and wipers, and obviously fork oil) and plan to put Progressive springs in soon. Steering head bearings are in good shape as well as wheel bearings and no issues. I have watched Morley's bounce test and that seems like a good way to get a reasonable amount of preload on the steering head bearings. I won't be going to the cost of radial tires on this bike. And I question how much that will affect the wobble problem given the Gen 2s come with radials and they still have the wobble issue. Also the modern radial motorcycle tire is a lower profile running in the 40s, 50s, 60s and sometimes 70 series which affect final gearing ratio of a bike with a 90 aspect ratio stock tire.

I don't expect the Vmax to ever be a bike for the twisties, but I might invest in the frame braces as I hear they do stiffen the frame for a little less wallow in the corners. There is a swingarm mod where bracing is added to further stiffen the chassis, but the cost and down time are likely not worth it for me. Some say that stiffening the chassis does reduce the chance for wobble, and swingarm flex might be more likely to induce wobble than frame flex, just speculation on my part.

One thing that can cause wobble is a death grip on the bars. I've seen this with new racers being uptight and gorilla fisting the clip-ons. A very light touch on the bars is usually the best way to go.

I appreciate you taking the time to give ideas to forestall this potential/likely problem. If I come across a fix that hasn't been mentioned I will share with the forum.

 

[TK3333]

Head bearings too tight = hi speed weave, too loose= wobble. Bounce test= just right. Really no mods needed to cure the wobble, other than good maintanence and properly cared for suspension. The other mods you mentioned help tame the rear wallow in long fast sweepers under power. Slower twisties will be limted by lean angle (scraping foot pegs and center stand) not by wobbles & wallows. Thats what I have experienced with stock wheels and cheap Shinko TM's. Fork and shock upgrades do make a big difference in feel and handling. I have the same reservations as you on wheels although everyone swears by radials. Then theres the 17" or 18" debate. Its an expensive mod and usually calls for more mods, like brakes & notched swingarm to fit 180's+. Plus turning more rpms on a bike that already has limited fuel range. All depends on wants and needs....