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[eric1959]

Hi, I am living in Montreal Quebec since 1987 and I was born in France in 1959, I own 3 VMAX, 1985, 2001 and a 2005, I do the all mechanical work on the bike and my friend VMAX.

 

[Fire-medic]

As the vampire said, "great, new-blood!"

 

[Fire-medic]

Hi Guys,

New member here, got my first V-max about 2 weeks ago its a 1996 and man is this a fun machine! I've been poking through the threads its got a few issues and so far every question I've had about this thing there is a thread with a fix and about 30 upgrades while your in there. Rear brake issue solved got the galfer SS lines, EBC HH pads, new rotor and a caliper rebuild. Water leak through the weep hole the thread with the parts list, thank you very much! (Ordered that's next weekends project). Got the seat recovered as soon as I got it. Have a small fuel leak, ill find the thread I'm sure there are multiple ones out there to get pointed in the right direction.
This is my first bike got it from a buddy of mine for cheap, so I'm takin it easy on her just cruisin and yes I am taking the class end of December.
Thanks again for this VMAX site so far I've been able to find a way to make a list of all the cool stuff I want for this bike and have seen all the wonderful member pics of mods, covers, ect. I think my list is only about up to 5k but hey isn't that the fun part! She's old and been neglected so now its my job to bring her back to life and I really enjoy wrenchin on stuff.


Thanks again to all,

Ben

Ever locate the gas leak? I wouldn't be running it until I fixed that. Your rubbers in the carbs are now 23 years-old, not unexpected they started leaking. The molded loop from the gas tank to the gas filter, you can just get a long length of gas line, and loop it so it doesn't kink at the bend, reducing your flow of gas. About the only gas hose in the stock system that needs the stock piece is the 3-way molded T-hose on the carb gas distribution system.

 

[Benjiprime]

Ever locate the gas leak? I wouldn't be running it until I fixed that. Your rubbers in the carbs are now 23 years-old, not unexpected they started leaking. The molded loop from the gas tank to the gas filter, you can just get a long length of gas line, and loop it so it doesn't kink at the bend, reducing your flow of gas. About the only gas hose in the stock system that needs the stock piece is the 3-way molded T-hose on the carb gas distribution system.

Not yet but I'm pretty much set on replacing every piece of rubber. All of the MC were gunked up, sucked out the old fluid and cleaned them new fluid and a flush, the clutch MC fluid turned a little grey, I'm not convinced the lines are in the best shape so I got all the kits to rebuild and S.S. lines to replace the rubbers. You are correct about the old rubbers, figure hey do them all at once or I might be chasing a fuel leak one by one as the lines go. I did the front forks today too watching Sean's video made it super easy and I put the race tech springs in. I might do the emulators down the road but I want to see the difference with just the springs then the emulators so I can compare.
Good to know about the T-Hose being the only stock piece needed thank you very much for the tip that makes it a lot easier, I can just grab a roll of fuel line and cut to fit. I love those days when you can just make your own stuff and not have to wait for a part to come in.
My new old Vmax shes being selective apparently she wants me to get to know her first before I ride her!

Thanks again!

 

[figman]

Hi everyone,
Home base is in Trinity, NC and I'm 59 years young. I finally added a vmax to the stable. 1988 blue in color with a 1500 tourmaster. Dyno at 150hp and 101 tq Working on fine tuning a bit and having too much fun.

 

[Benjiprime]

Not yet but I'm pretty much set on replacing every piece of rubber. All of the MC were gunked up, sucked out the old fluid and cleaned them new fluid and a flush, the clutch MC fluid turned a little grey, I'm not convinced the lines are in the best shape so I got all the kits to rebuild and S.S. lines to replace the rubbers. You are correct about the old rubbers, figure hey do them all at once or I might be chasing a fuel leak one by one as the lines go. I did the front forks today too watching Sean's video made it super easy and I put the race tech springs in. I might do the emulators down the road but I want to see the difference with just the springs then the emulators so I can compare.
Good to know about the T-Hose being the only stock piece needed thank you very much for the tip that makes it a lot easier, I can just grab a roll of fuel line and cut to fit. I love those days when you can just make your own stuff and not have to wait for a part to come in.
My new old Vmax shes being selective apparently she wants me to get to know her first before I ride her!

Thanks again!

found the leak it was from the fuel bowl drain screws, the orings were worn out so I picked up a set of 4 and no leaks. New fuel too while im smellin like gas.

 

[caseyjones955]

found the leak it was from the fuel bowl drain screws, the orings were worn out so I picked up a set of 4 and no leaks. New fuel too while im smellin like gas.

When I got my max I was often greeted by the smell of raw fuel, I searched for leaks or anything and could find no issues other than being tuned stupid rich. Once I got her leaned out and running good and proper the raw fuel smell was gone. I did have failures on those O-rings too, found some at NAPA that fit and got a handful of them. Just throwing this out as a possibility if you have an elusive fuel smell beyond the O-rings and cant find any physical leaks.

 

[Benjiprime]

When I got my max I was often greeted by the smell of raw fuel, I searched for leaks or anything and could find no issues other than being tuned stupid rich. Once I got her leaned out and running good and proper the raw fuel smell was gone. I did have failures on those O-rings too, found some at NAPA that fit and got a handful of them. Just throwing this out as a possibility if you have an elusive fuel smell beyond the O-rings and cant find any physical leaks.

she has been a lil rich synced her yesterday she was way outa wack and wow what a difference that made gonna mess with the A/F today should have some time to tinker

 

[namvet6971]

Lived in Buffalo, N.Y. area for 62 years. Now live in Columbia, S.C. area. Owned a '85 VMax back then. Gone through quite a few different bikes since then. Couple Summers ago, I rode a 750 GSXR. That riding position wasn't working out. Sold my "06 FLHTCI last Summer, thought I'd retire my helmet for good then. However lately I've been getting the itch to buy a bike from my past, another GEN1 VMax. Figured I'd join the forum, to get reunited with an old friend and pick up some tips.

 

[Fire-medic]

Not yet but I'm pretty much set on replacing every piece of rubber. All of the MC were gunked up, sucked out the old fluid and cleaned them new fluid and a flush, the clutch MC fluid turned a little grey, I'm not convinced the lines are in the best shape so I got all the kits to rebuild and S.S. lines to replace the rubbers. You are correct about the old rubbers, figure hey do them all at once or I might be chasing a fuel leak one by one as the lines go. I did the front forks today too watching Sean's video made it super easy and I put the race tech springs in. I might do the emulators down the road but I want to see the difference with just the springs then the emulators so I can compare.
Good to know about the T-Hose being the only stock piece needed thank you very much for the tip that makes it a lot easier, I can just grab a roll of fuel line and cut to fit. I love those days when you can just make your own stuff and not have to wait for a part to come in.
My new old Vmax shes being selective apparently she wants me to get to know her first before I ride her!

Thanks again!

If you get the Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, you will be very-glad to have installed them. They make a big difference in the damping function. RICOR brand also work, essentially it's Ford Vs. Chevy. I have bought both Race Tech and RICOR. Properly-tuned to your weight & riding, they are essentially the same, is my experience.

If you were inventive, you could probably figure-out a replacement for the gas T-hose, too, but since it's probably a once in a lifetime replacement on a VMax, the stock part is little-more than the cost of a case of decent beer, so why-not? Also, leaking fuel always has that possibility of a fire, so it's nothing to defer. Put-off chroming your air scoops, yes, put-off replacing a leaking gas line, hell, no!

 

[Fire-medic]

Lived in Buffalo, N.Y. area for 62 years. Now live in Columbia, S.C. area. Owned a '85 VMax back then. Gone through quite a few different bikes since then. Couple Summers ago, I rode a 750 GSXR. That riding position wasn't working out. Sold my "06 FLHTCI last Summer, thought I'd retire my helmet for good then. However lately I've been getting the itch to buy a bike from my past, another GEN1 VMax. Figured I'd join the forum, to get reunited with an old friend and pick up some tips.

Thank-you for your career in-defense of our country. Welcome to civilian life.

Plenty of good buys on the used bike market and prices are down. Remember that like a weapon, it has to be clean to operate well, and keeping it clean will help you to keep track of problems when they are little. The carb'ed bikes take more work than a fuel injection bike. The small jet in the VMax fuel block of each carb is one to easily-plug-up, causing idle issues, off-idle throttle response, and in these days of 10% alcohol unleaded, they can plug easily, especially if your bike sits for a prolonged period.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/4g0-14142-37-a0/-jet-pilot-37-5

 

[Benjiprime]

If you get the Race Tech Gold Valve cartridge emulators, you will be very-glad to have installed them. They make a big difference in the damping function. RICOR brand also work, essentially it's Ford Vs. Chevy. I have bought both Race Tech and RICOR. Properly-tuned to your weight & riding, they are essentially the same, is my experience.

If you were inventive, you could probably figure-out a replacement for the gas T-hose, too, but since it's probably a once in a lifetime replacement on a VMax, the stock part is little-more than the cost of a case of decent beer, so why-not? Also, leaking fuel always has that possibility of a fire, so it's nothing to defer. Put-off chroming your air scoops, yes, put-off replacing a leaking gas line, hell, no!

I've been looking and the gold valve cartridge emulators and comparing them to the ricors, leaning toward gold valve at the moment.
I found the fuel leak it was the fuel bowl drain screw oring, changed all 4 and the fuel filter. Ordered the fuel-T hose from partzilla, looking at going with polyurethane fuel line for the rest of it, any thoughts on the poly line?
Synced the carbs and set the idle, the sync was way off made a huge difference. I was gonna do the A/F setting yesterday but decided to go for a 4 hr ride instead, good times!

 

[namvet6971]

Thank-you for your career in-defense of our country. Welcome to civilian life.

Plenty of good buys on the used bike market and prices are down. Remember that like a weapon, it has to be clean to operate well, and keeping it clean will help you to keep track of problems when they are little. The carb'ed bikes take more work than a fuel injection bike. The small jet in the VMax fuel block of each carb is one to easily-plug-up, causing idle issues, off-idle throttle response, and in these days of 10% alcohol unleaded, they can plug easily, especially if your bike sits for a prolonged period.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/4g0-14142-37-a0/-jet-pilot-37-5

Thanks for the suggestions. From what I've gathered so far is, an older bike with more miles is better than an older bike with low mileage. Meaning don't want one that's been sitting idle, for most of it's life.

 

[Fire-medic]

If the bike runs well, and has low miles, I think I would buy the lower mileage bike. Higher-miles bikes are usually priced lower anyways, and if it runs well, but has say, 40K miles, you're probably gonna pay less for it.

Bikes left idle, not run much will probably develop plugged pilot jets (post #3635, above, see the part #) because of the ethanol 10% gas we are sold these days. Typically, these bikes idle poorly, have poor off-idle throttle response, but run OK once they transition to the main jets. If you know what to look-for and how-to fix it, bikes like these can be bought cheaply. You have to know that the engine is sealed-well, that it doesn't have a low-compression cylinder (or cylinders!), and that all it needs is a good carb overhaul/cleaning. Those are $1500 bikes, to me. If it doesn't run-well, that's all I'd pay these days, and maybe less, if it's got a lot of miles, and needs all replaceables (battery, tires, hydraulic clutch & brakes, carbs cleaned & repaired), that's a <$1,000 bike. A non-runner needing everything is a $500 bike. No title issues. I wouldn't buy any bike without papers, not worth the possible legal issues. A shop with an abandoned bike should get a mechanic's lien executed, I wouldn't buy it with the promise of, "you buy it, and we'll file for the title under a mechanic's lien." Here in Florida it's about $300 to go through the process, according to what my shopowner friend tells me.

 

[namvet6971]

If the bike runs well, and has low miles, I think I would buy the lower mileage bike. Higher-miles bikes are usually priced lower anyways, and if it runs well, but has say, 40K miles, you're probably gonna pay less for it.

Bikes left idle, not run much will probably develop plugged pilot jets (post #3635, above, see the part #) because of the ethanol 10% gas we are sold these days. Typically, these bikes idle poorly, have poor off-idle throttle response, but run OK once they transition to the main jets. If you know what to look-for and how-to fix it, bikes like these can be bought cheaply. You have to know that the engine is sealed-well, that it doesn't have a low-compression cylinder (or cylinders!), and that all it needs is a good carb overhaul/cleaning. Those are $1500 bikes, to me. If it doesn't run-well, that's all I'd pay these days, and maybe less, if it's got a lot of miles, and needs all replaceables (battery, tires, hydraulic clutch & brakes, carbs cleaned & repaired), that's a <$1,000 bike. A non-runner needing everything is a $500 bike. No title issues. I wouldn't buy any bike without papers, not worth the possible legal issues. A shop with an abandoned bike should get a mechanic's lien executed, I wouldn't buy it with the promise of, "you buy it, and we'll file for the title under a mechanic's lien." Here in Florida it's about $300 to go through the process, according to what my shopowner friend tells me.

Much appreciated. I'm taking notes, for when I look over potential bikes. I haven't bought too many used bikes and the ones I did never gave me any problems. Lucky I guess. I'll be sure and give it a serious look over and shake down test ride. Especially for 2nd gear problem, if it's pre late 90's.

 

[jwm_max]

Hi guys I’m New an doooking for a company that does the 1500 upgrade. Engine swap. Can’t find the website. Very well known. Any help appreciated. Thanks again

 

[one2dmax]

Depending on where you are at there are a few places that offer stuff like that. Where are you located?

 

[rynoman]

Hi guys I’m New an doooking for a company that does the 1500 upgrade. Engine swap. Can’t find the website. Very well known. Any help appreciated. Thanks again

PCW Racing

 

[Jeremy scriver]

Hi I'm new to. First max I saw was 1988 and just got my first one in October it's a mint 88 stainless pipes kurker exhaust jetted cop mod modes air box hifkow air filter and shaved some weight off of it. I was going to put an aluminum rad on it but front tire is hard enough to keep on the road. I'm looking for a cheap sissy bar one I can take off quick for the wife.

 

[aquaant03]

Hi all
I'm new to the forum.
I've had many bikes in the past, but have always admired the Max since I first saw one in Turkey in 1988.
I've just bought a nice 1989 Japanese import from DK Motorcycles, as a runner but need a little TLC.
After charging the battery, draining and refreshing the fuel, it started 1st time, but was very hesitant when the choke was turned off.
It stalled then would not start again.
I left it till the next day and tried again, it started 1st time, but again when warm it stalled and wouldn't start.
Have you guys any idea why?