Best fix for o-ring problem?

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3 bolts holding the pump. But, I think you have to yank the oil plumbing out (which you have to do anyway) which has 2 bolts.

Sean
 
3 bolts holding the pump. But, I think you have to yank the oil plumbing out (which you have to do anyway) which has 2 bolts.

Sean

looks like the torque settings for them back in are between 10-12 Nm, do they need any threadlocker?
 
All good information, thanks guys. I'm no stranger to engine work - installed a track kit on my last streetbike. I'm planning on tuning this bike up as well, so the oiling kit might be a good spring project.
 
All good information, thanks guys. I'm no stranger to engine work - installed a track kit on my last streetbike. I'm planning on tuning this bike up as well, so the oiling kit might be a good spring project.

yes but i am!
 
gamorg02: You'll do fine, just take your time and make sure of each step.. Before you close it up do a good visual and verify that it's all in place...
 
Sounds good. Laying on a 20 deg concrete floor oughta be fun too!

gamorg02: You'll do fine, just take your time and make sure of each step.. Before you close it up do a good visual and verify that it's all in place...
 
Throw down a piece of cardboard :) Take note of how things come apart as well.
 
Towel over the cardboard would be a nice touch..

3 bolts to lower the supply line and access the O-Ring 2 toward the front, one toward the back... The rear one is tough. I called Sean when I got to it the first time to make sure it wasn't a reverse thread... It's in there with a death grip...

3 bolts to lower the oil pump but only if needed. Likely it is.. I lowered mine just enough to swap the O-Rings..

Make sure you have the guide pins in place when the cover goes back on...

Good Luck Brother, you will be an expert at this after the first one...

Dave in Florida

Post #10 here for pictures of the assembly..::http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=15009

PS: I'd be there with you in person if you didn't live so damn far away...
 
Towel over the cardboard would be a nice touch..

3 bolts to lower the supply line and access the O-Ring 2 toward the front, one toward the back... The rear one is tough. I called Sean when I got to it the first time to make sure it wasn't a reverse thread... It's in there with a death grip...

3 bolts to lower the oil pump but only if needed. Likely it is.. I lowered mine just enough to swap the O-Rings..

Make sure you have the guide pins in place when the cover goes back on...

Good Luck Brother, you will be an expert at this after the first one...

Dave in Florida

Post #10 here for pictures of the assembly..::http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=15009

PS: I'd be there with you in person if you didn't live so damn far away...


i'd only be dropping the pump to put a washer in to raise the bypass pressure. Thanks for the heads up and i appreciate thoughts my friend!
 
A you replacing the drive gear behind the clutch and putting the corresponding shim on the pump body too? Or just the washer in the pump to increase pressure?

Anyone familiar with the pcw mod? I hear they have some setup that replaces the stock oil delivery pipes?
 
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So you are going to drop the oil tubes and open up the pump and shim the spring for more pressure. You're going to open up the clutch to do the dd mod. But you're not going to bother to install the larger pump drive gear and corresponding pump body shim for more volume?

Why not? If your in it this far its just a couple more steps. Take the nut off the clutch basket and pull the clutch off. Remove a couple phillips screws from the bearing retainer and now your ready to pull off the drive gear since the oil pump would be out anyways. With the right snap ring pliers it comes off easily. Not much room to work and hard to see up in there but it wasn't any worse than scraping the gasket
 
So you are going to drop the oil tubes and open up the pump and shim the spring for more pressure. You're going to open up the clutch to do the dd mod. But you're not going to bother to install the larger pump drive gear and corresponding pump body shim for more volume?

Why not? If your in it this far its just a couple more steps. Take the nut off the clutch basket and pull the clutch off. Remove a couple phillips screws from the bearing retainer and now your ready to pull off the drive gear since the oil pump would be out anyways. With the right snap ring pliers it comes off easily. Not much room to work and hard to see up in there but it wasn't any worse than scraping the gasket

my plan wasn't originally to do anything to the oil pump, so i'm actually not sure what you're tlaking about. in replacing with the kawi o-ring and the a new boot for the oil tube sean included a washer for me to shim if I wanted to...

is that the rest of the hd oiling kit?
 
The rest of the HD kit is another gear (which requires clutch removal to access the gear shaft) and then a shim under the pump body to space it out).
 
my plan wasn't originally to do anything to the oil pump, so i'm actually not sure what you're tlaking about. in replacing with the kawi o-ring and the a new boot for the oil tube sean included a washer for me to shim if I wanted to...

is that the rest of the hd oiling kit?

Pretty much. The gold washer is the part that give you more pressure. The new gear and spacer are used to give you more volume.

Just saying that if you planned to drop the pump to install the gold washer to increase pressure and you are going to do the DD mod you are only a couple steps away from doing the complete HD oiling upgrade.

Removing the gear that drives the pump and replacing it with the larger one isn't too bad. Its just kind of hard to see up in there and there is not a lot of room to work. Feel free to give me a call if you got any questions about it. Just not during the steelers/jets game, LOL!
 
Pretty much. The gold washer is the part that give you more pressure. The new gear and spacer are used to give you more volume.

Just saying that if you planned to drop the pump to install the gold washer to increase pressure and you are going to do the DD mod you are only a couple steps away from doing the complete HD oiling upgrade.

Removing the gear that drives the pump and replacing it with the larger one isn't too bad. Its just kind of hard to see up in there and there is not a lot of room to work. Feel free to give me a call if you got any questions about it. Just not during the steelers/jets game, LOL!

i follow. well i'd have to get the parts from sean anyways so i'll give it some thought. with how cold it is i'm gonna have to let the oil drain for a few days anyways.
 
I've been on pins and needles thinking you were in the process of doing this and asking questions as you went...I'm happy that you're still in the prep stages. You may be a resident expert when you get started.. You're getting great answers here from the rest of the guys... I hope it all goes smoothly for you... It's 60 outside here, you could come to Florida and we could have a VMax team at your disposal....:biglaugh:

Dave
 
I've been on pins and needles thinking you were in the process of doing this and asking questions as you went...I'm happy that you're still in the prep stages. You may be a resident expert when you get started.. You're getting great answers here from the rest of the guys... I hope it all goes smoothly for you... It's 60 outside here, you could come to Florida and we could have a VMax team at your disposal....:biglaugh:

Dave

haha thanks man! nah i like to have my i's dotted and t's crossed before i start anything!
 
Wow I wish it was 60 degrees here. Up in Edmonton we're getting close to record snowfall for January - snowed almost every day so far. Spent the weekend shovelling off the roof and then moving the resultant massive snow piles with the tractor.
Somehow, just starting to get spring riding fever and making a to do list for the bike before the snow is gone.
 
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