Best fix for o-ring problem?

[gamorg02]

so cyclepedia actually has the best writeup of the whole oil pump removal process which actually just made me feel a lot more comfortable about it.

only thing thats missing is how/why you need the clutch basket out to get access to the gear on the inside?

also it might be interesting without a rear brake pedal to do this.

 

[[email protected]]

This pic should help

See the little plastic gear with the green arrow? This is driven by the clutch basket. The shaft on this gear goes thru the engine case and on the other side there is another small gear (metal if I remember right). You can't see it in the photo. But the gear on the other side that you can't see is what drives the oil pump. The other plastic gear in the photo (the one a bit lower) is the oil pump

So, unless you are changing out the gear that drives the oil pump (the one you can't see in the picture) you don't need to remove the clutch basket. If you are doing the complete HD oiling upgrade from sean then you will need to do this. You need that shaft to slide in and out to remove and replace the drive gear. Once the basket is off, use snap ring pliers to remove the plastic gear that you see in the photo that the clutch drives, and remove the #3 phillips screws on the bearing retainer. This picture shows the bearing retainer a bit more.

Check out this thread for some more good photos of the clutch and stuff
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938

Forgot to add. Not sure why you need a brake pedal? My only guess is your worried about breaking the nut on the clutch basket loose. I use a "grabbit" tool from motion pro. I've had it for years. Most any bike shop has them, they're pretty common. Or, just use an impact. I like the grabbit tool so I can hold the basket when I torque the nut to spec on the basket.

 

[gamorg02]

This pic should help

See the little plastic gear with the green arrow? This is driven by the clutch basket. The shaft on this gear goes thru the engine case and on the other side there is another small gear (metal if I remember right). You can't see it in the photo. But the gear on the other side that you can't see is what drives the oil pump. The other plastic gear in the photo (the one a bit lower) is the oil pump

So, unless you are changing out the gear that drives the oil pump (the one you can't see in the picture) you don't need to remove the clutch basket. If you are doing the complete HD oiling upgrade from sean then you will need to do this. You need that shaft to slide in and out to remove and replace the drive gear. Once the basket is off, use snap ring pliers to remove the plastic gear that you see in the photo that the clutch drives, and remove the #3 phillips screws on the bearing retainer. This picture shows the bearing retainer a bit more.

Check out this thread for some more good photos of the clutch and stuff
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=10938

Forgot to add. Not sure why you need a brake pedal? My only guess is your worried about breaking the nut on the clutch basket loose. I use a "grabbit" tool from motion pro. I've had it for years. Most any bike shop has them, they're pretty common. Or, just use an impact. I like the grabbit tool so I can hold the basket when I torque the nut to spec on the basket.

thanks for all the help! i called mike mid-way and told him i stripped the upper right bearing retaining bolt. went home and got all my 'stripped bolt' tools and got her out luckily. going to replace with allen heads. could not for the life of me get the gear circlip off, so gonna have to head down to auto zone tomorrow if the weather cooperates and get a different set.

also u were right on with the brake pedal. i ended up using my bottle jack under the plunger and jacked it up until it started to lift the bike up and then backed it off and that held it enough to break it free. also didn't have a shift pedal so had to use the clamp and rod to get it into 5th.

all in all successful day.

i'm also going to replace the oil pump bolts with allen heads, should i use stainless in the engine or are normal bolts (or even the black ones) good enough?

 

[[email protected]]

Glad to hear you got it Garrett. I've never had much luck with those spiral type bolt extractors on small screws but, whatever works. I typically use this type of extractor on small phillips screws.

Beware of the oil pump screws as they are in there pretty tight also. I used my manual impact driver but didn't hammer on it. It just seems to grip real good and has a nice handle compared to a regular screw driver. I used loctite on the oil pump screws and bearing retainer screws when I put it all back together.

Good luck with the rest!

 

[gamorg02]

Glad to hear you got it Garrett. I've never had much luck with those spiral type bolt extractors on small screws but, whatever works. I typically use this type of extractor on small phillips screws.

Beware of the oil pump screws as they are in there pretty tight also. I used my manual impact driver but didn't hammer on it. It just seems to grip real good and has a nice handle compared to a regular screw driver. I used loctite on the oil pump screws and bearing retainer screws when I put it all back together.

Good luck with the rest!

i'm going to the hardware store today to replace all the phillips heads (i think its just the retainer bolts and oil pump bolts) with allen heads. i'll throw some stainless on there. did you use blue or red loctite?

looks like the retaining bolts were only in there 7 Nm.

can you link to the screw extractor set like the name of it? not sure what to search on ebay or similar.

EDIT: is this it?

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5-Piece-Str...489?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230db09079

 

[[email protected]]

I used blue.

As far as the square extractors, I bought mine at sears. Those ebay ones look pretty much the same.

 

[one2dmax]

I just replaced a couple of those extractors (my favorite also) at my local Sears (Craftsman).

Sean

 

[hawkeye]

How do those extractors work? I'm not familiar with those.

 

[one2dmax]

Same as a normal extractor but they grip it by the sides and don't try to pull themselves inward making them swell the broken bolt even tighter in the hole.

Sean

 

[[email protected]]

How do those extractors work? I'm not familiar with those.

I have had better luck with these than any other kind.

 

[hawkeye]

Right on, thanks guys!

 

[gamorg02]

on a related but side note whats the point of the piece of pipe that is in the back that you have to loosen to drop the galley. looks almost like a banjo fitting but the bolt isn't a banjo bolt, don't see any oil going thru there?

 

[one2dmax]

Which one? There is the pipe coming from the system above and is what flows into the cup. It's bolted in with one of the 10mm bolts. There is another small pipe running from the pump over to spray fluid on the backside of the stator. Not 100% sure what that purpose is since they Ventures don't have it and their system has a higher output.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

Which one? There is the pipe coming from the system above and is what flows into the cup. It's bolted in with one of the 10mm bolts. There is another small pipe running from the pump over to spray fluid on the backside of the stator. Not 100% sure what that purpose is since they Ventures don't have it and their system has a higher output.

Sean

the tube to the stator cover. what a pain that was to get back in. there is no reason to take it out either, just everything i read said to remove it. you have to take the stator cover off to pop it back in i think

anyways i'm not talking about either one. if you drop the whole oil galley there is a tube coming off the back with a 8mm threaded bolt (i think 12mm head) that is like 4" long and almost looks like a banjo fitting.

 

[one2dmax]

The shank of the bolt is small enough to let oil pass down the hole past the bolt head. The stator cooling line does not need to come out but can actually be put in without the cover removal. It's a lot easier with the engine out though lol!

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

The shank of the bolt is small enough to let oil pass down the hole past the bolt head. The stator cooling line does not need to come out but can actually be put in without the cover removal. It's a lot easier with the engine out though lol!

Sean

oh i'm sure it 'could' but i didn't have the next 2 weeks free on my schedule. its better anyways i did i noticed the bolts on the starter clutch were loose. speaking of which i should crack that off tomorrow and see if the bolts i picked up from the hw store work. i tried today but my puller bolts weren't long enough.

so we're on the same page, we're talking about the thing on the upper right of the photo? the oil drips down from there? whats the purpose?

 

[one2dmax]

Yes, upper right section. Will have to look and see exactly where the passage goes but want to say transmission oiling.

Sean

 

[gamorg02]

Yes, upper right section. Will have to look and see exactly where the passage goes but want to say transmission oiling.

Sean

ah so the oil gets 'around' the bolt going up, not down, then hits a passageway to the transmission galley?

 

[one2dmax]

If I remember correctly - yes. But, I am trying to go from a guess.

 

[RaWarrior]

This probably seems stupid but I've been away from the bike so long I don't remember...do you have to pull the front headpipes to get the oil pan off? Swapping in the kawi o-ring is on my spring to-do list.