Both PAJs

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joelyons50023

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Does messing with one or the other PAJs make a bigger difference and would changing them affect the outcome in the rest of the A/F line? thanks B/c I need to go leaner like 9.5 A/F leaner from 2k to about 5500 and needle is all of the way down?
 
come on any help from the carb. gurus out there i read that the paj2 is for more of the decell mix and small throttle % and the paj1 is for more of the higher % of throttle if i am wrong please set me straight because my fuel line is way fat up until 5500 or so any help please? shawn, maleko, morley. the carb. gods must speak. lol:worthy:
 
either wait for mark to see this or pm him, maleko89 or something like that, I can't think right now.
 
Does messing with one or the other PAJs make a bigger difference and would changing them affect the outcome in the rest of the A/F line? thanks B/c I need to go leaner like 9.5 A/F leaner from 2k to about 5500 and needle is all of the way down?


It sounds to me like you need to screw in your A/f mixture screws in some.

Is this bike stock?Do you have a dyno run to post?We need more info on this.
 
If your needles are all the way down there is a problem there! Whats your top end like? What size main jets are you running? Whats your setup? Engine work, head work, cam size, exhaust, jet kit?

I never messed with the PAJ's in mine.
Sounds like your springs are to weak? Are you running stock springs, DJ springs?

You can make a VMAX scream with just messing with

1) Main Jets.
2) Adjustable Needles
3) Slide Springs
4) A/F screws adjusted at idle with a infrared temp gun on each header.
5) Last Synch

Ok to many secrets to get into the 10's :rofl_200:
 
My Bad! I just seen "2005 V-Max Stg. 7 with Kerker 4-2-1"


Most likely you drilled your slides:bang head: and your springs are to weak causing the slides to rise to fast and causing your low range to be rich..

I am running the same setup at about 850 FT above sea level.

Are you running the individual filters, KN stock :confused2:

If your needle clip is on the lowest part of your needles you have another issue. Mine as of today are set right in the middle and my low end and mid range are stronger than before with power wheelies starting in the mid part of 1st.

I am assuming you have your VBoost Removed? should say hope?
 
4) A/F screws adjusted at idle with a infrared temp gun on each header.

So that's the way to adjust those properly! :eusa_dance::punk:

What's the recommended reading on the temp gun for the most efficient A/F setting? I'm looking for mpg and a happy smooth engine, not necessarily highest performance.
 
Some will argue this, but its how I adjust my A/F mixture. Some say its not accurate, its not if you dont mesure on the same EXACT spot on each cylinder. I am running a Kerker Header and use the thick part where the pipe meets the head about 1 in from the cyl.
At 1300 RPM's I will dial each one into around 225F
I will idle it up and temps will ride up to 325F

If you can adjust each AF for temps within 5 of each other your dialed in.
THIS IS ONLY ACCURATE IF YOU ARE PRECISE IN WHERE YOUR MEASURING.

Also if your using a high qaulity temp gun such as a Fluke Infared.
 
ind. filters w/ stacks 3'' tall the end capp is alterd to be very free flowing, i do have the dj springs and the 175 dj main the fuel screws are set so that the idle is at 14 at idle also i know that i need to adjust the float levels but such a pain and is 16mm the good setting for the float. I also tested at cruising speed 55-80 and my a/f is at 14.2 so that is good for me. when it gets up into the main jet it shoots right back up i will put the graph up here in the next days.
 
Start off with tuning with your main jet. 165.
Adjust needles for low end.
Adjust spring pressure with mid range.
 
these are my a/f graphs joe 1 is 175 mj baffle in stock paj ind filters and 3'' stacks/ joe 2 is the same but baffle out / and joe 3 is the same but no baffle and no end cap. also would the quick leaning out at the end have to do with having stacks but no vent hoses hooked up?
 

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I can only imagine what your MPG is. I am learning this from my setup I was getting 25 MPH now matter how I drove it which was my needles being set to high out of the main jet.

I would start with the following.

165 DJ mains.
Set your needles in the middle setting of the needle.
Look for some stock slide springs.
A/F set 2.5 out )This is last before synching the carbs.

IMO 175's are to big for the street with a baffle in. I had a buddy that dragraced his VMAX and thats all no street riding, raced with a kerker 4-2-1 open baffle. Bike wouldnt run worth a **** unless WOT! It did run 103 in the 1/8.

Unless you have headwork done with some cams and heavy springs I wouldnt run such a big main jet.
 
I get 90-105 miles per tank and that is all city and the fact of what needles to use? stg 7 or stg 1 needles, at idle i was at 14.2 and at crusing i was at 14.5 so i could go a little fatter in the idle and cruise but i am not that worried about it you don't need power when you are putting around at 1/4 throttle but no one answered my ? about the PAJ 1 & 2 about where each one does its thing?
 
Dude by the looks of your Dyno AF ratio chart the PAJ's SHOULD be the farest from your mind at the moment. PAJ's are idle and 1/8 throttle.
I am not going to offer advice if you keep talking about PAJ's damn!@!

I could see if your graph was good and you werent happy with your idle or off idle.


Some people!!
 
ok ok fine just wanting to know why there are 2 PAJ I know that it will not affect my a/f that much but **** i just want to know other wise why 2 PAJ :confused2: thanks for the idea on the smaller jet and needle position but what about the type stg.7 or one i have both and about having ind. filters and no hoses on the vents if it will cause a lean out at the top end:confused2:
 
Does messing with one or the other PAJs make a bigger difference and would changing them affect the outcome in the rest of the A/F line? thanks B/c I need to go leaner like 9.5 A/F leaner from 2k to about 5500 and needle is all of the way down?

I would think they have about equal effect. PAJ1 would have greater affect at idle. PAJ2 would have greater affect at about 1/8 throttle up to about 5000 rpms. To go leaner in the range you mentioned youcould try stock springs and/or a larger PAJ2. Larger PAJ1 would do it too. Might want to fiddle with a/f screws first though.
 
Mark:

did you see that his needle clip settings are really out? Look at his Dyno the AF shoots up after 7K almost like he is also running the V-BOOST.
He is running rich all the way on the top end also.
Why start messing with other jets until he gets this problems resolved first.

Needles are not set properly
Main jet is large.

PAJ's and AF are the last things you want to dial in when tuning carbs.



Fix the obvious problems first before you start changing other things, thats when you get in over your head!
Make one change at a time.


I would think they have about equal effect. PAJ1 would have greater affect at idle. PAJ2 would have greater affect at about 1/8 throttle up to about 5000 rpms. To go leaner in the range you mentioned youcould try stock springs and/or a larger PAJ2. Larger PAJ1 would do it too. Might want to fiddle with a/f screws first though.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mark

I will let ya take this one over. Maybe ya can get him dialed in with the A/F ratio and pilot jets. What do I know?:confused2:



I would think they have about equal effect. PAJ1 would have greater affect at idle. PAJ2 would have greater affect at about 1/8 throttle up to about 5000 rpms. To go leaner in the range you mentioned youcould try stock springs and/or a larger PAJ2. Larger PAJ1 would do it too. Might want to fiddle with a/f screws first though.
 
Mark:

did you see that his needle clip settings are really out? Look at his Dyno the AF shoots up after 7K almost like he is also running the V-BOOST.
He is running rich all the way on the top end also.
Why start messing with other jets until he gets this problems resolved first.

1St F Up!, Needles are not set properly
2nd F up Main jet is large.

PAJ's and AF are the last things you want to dial in when tuning carbs.

Thats almost like saying try synching the carbs than tear them apart to change jets.

Or lets change our socks and take a shower.
Or lets put our underware on over our pants.
Or there are nails in our driveway lets drive to the tire store to replace our tires and come back home ot drive over em again.

Fix the obvious problems first before you start changing other things, thats when you get in over your head!
Make one change at a time.

I agree with ya on needles and mains...I didn't talke about that because had nothing to add. I was just trying to answer the question on the pilot air jets.
 
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