brake disc bolts snapped advise

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PaulVmax

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Location
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Hello guy i was on taking the cush drive and brake disc off my resent divvy wheel and all the bolts have snapped except one any ideas on how to get them out ?
 
Drill and easy out them. First soak them with oil for a few days, something like Kroil oil. Then drill them, heat them up with a torch and then use the easy out to take them out.

Should only take 10-15 mins to get them all out.

Todd
 
+1 to Todd's fix, I had the same issue but was a bit luckier in that I only had 2 bolts break off or head stripped. Ez out was the answer.
 
Did I read that right, ALL but one snapped off?!
You either got hold of some crappy ass bolts or too much loctite or thread mismatch. I suppose you got some money tied up in the Divvy upgrade but I'd be dumping that set up. I had one rotor bolt snap off which was easily drilled and easy outed but I sure wouldn't go that route with a whole wheel to do!
 
I'm swapping out my rotors once the snow melts. Any advise on how to keep this from happening to me? Maybe penetrating oil a day or two before I even try to loosen them?
 
I used a dremmel to make a line and used a impact driver got one out going to take it to work on Monday and weld a nut on it and hopfully that will work
 
Remove the valve stem if you are planning on leaving the tire on the rim. NEVER! try to weld or heat anything like a wheel where the tire is on a rim, unless you remove the valve core. I know of two instances in my area where stupid mechanics died from doing just that, leaving the tire under pressure and heating/welding the wheel, when it blew, two fatalities.

I do recommend heat and some form of penetrating oil. I like PB Blaster, but one of the mags did the comparison of force needed to loosen pieces & the ATF/solvent (mineral oil or acetone) was best, cheap too. It's been posted-up here before.

I have used my Dremel to slot all-kinds of stuck fasteners for removal, and it's saved my bacon plenty of times, but the last time I had some disc brake carrier bolts round-out the Allen key hole, it was a plain-old baby sledge and a cold chisel, & done.

The switch pods and the master cyl's covers are the places on my VMax where I've had had to slot the stuck fasteners the most-often. Then a tight-fitting slot screw driver will usually remove them, and my manual impact driver which is probably older than most of the members on-here is what does the trick, if the screwdriver doesn't. I keep a set of new Craftsman screwdrivers just for this purpose. I buy the 20+ piece set when they go on-sale, and keep them in the cardboard box, segregated from my other tools until this situation arises.
 
Vmaxnewfie, +1 on the impact driver. Soak the bolts with a penetrating fluid but the impact driver is a must. When I had to take the rotors off to paint my wheel I tried to remove 1 bolt using heat and a ratchet and the bolt snapped. I got my hands on an impact driver and had no issues for the rest of them including the rear rotor bolts as well. An impact driver is invaluable and a must in your tool box.http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...rWithBits.png/1024px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png something like this, mine is a heavy duty version from snap-on but you can find them at an good tool supply place.


David Justiss
USAF First Sergeant
554 RED HORSE Sq, Guam
 
Vmaxnewfie, +1 on the impact driver. Soak the bolts with a penetrating fluid but the impact driver is a must. When I had to take the rotors off to paint my wheel I tried to remove 1 bolt using heat and a ratchet and the bolt snapped. I got my hands on an impact driver and had no issues for the rest of them including the rear rotor bolts as well. An impact driver is invaluable and a must in your tool box.http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...rWithBits.png/1024px-ImpactDriverWithBits.png something like this, mine is a heavy duty version from snap-on but you can find them at an good tool supply place.



David Justiss
USAF First Sergeant
554 RED HORSE Sq, Guam

I have an electric heavy duty impact drill/driver and also a big electric impact wrench for removing car wheels. Would the impact wrench be too powerful and strip the bolt heads?
 
I have an electric heavy duty impact drill/driver and also a big electric impact wrench for removing car wheels. Would the impact wrench be too powerful and strip the bolt heads?

How many ft/lbs is it rated for? I have an air impact, set at 3, so it should be 180-200 ft/lbs, and thats what I used to take my rotors off before...and even last night, and back on the new wheel.
 
I have an electric heavy duty impact drill/driver and also a big electric impact wrench for removing car wheels. Would the impact wrench be too powerful and strip the bolt heads?

Yes. Get a butane pen torch and heat the center of the bolts to break the loctite seal. Use a hand impact to break them loose.Then you can spin them out with the electric impact.
 
I'm swapping out my rotors once the snow melts. Any advise on how to keep this from happening to me? Maybe penetrating oil a day or two before I even try to loosen them?
I swapped out the rear rotor not long ago. I had taken it off a few years ago, in order to paint the wheel, and re-assembled it using a dab of blue Locktite on each of the bolts. So I thought that it might be a bitch to remove again.
I was wrong!
With the wheel still on the bike, I soaked each bolt overnight with PB Blaster.
In the morning, I put a tight-fitting 1/2" drive allen-head socket in each bolt, followed by a 1/2" breaker bar. Then applied some pressure - not enough to strip the bolt head, just enough to let the bolt know that I meant business.
Then, I just tapped the drive end of the breaker bar, while still holding pressure( a friend would come in handy when doing this).
Voila! Each bolt turned out on it's own, no heads were ruined.
Worth a try, with a least one bolt. If it doesn't loosen, I would remove the wheel, lay horizontal, soak overnight with PB, then use the same breaker bar procedure, (or an impact gun), perhaps with some heat on the hub.
Cheers!
 
I have drilled and tapped all the holes again disc fits nicely now. Tomorrow I am going to blast and powder coat the wheel black.
 
The thing that makes an impact driver better than an impact gun

1. It's a sudden sharp application if force beyond what most impact guns can do

2. By design it keeps the tool tip firmly in the bolt head preventing round out of the Allen/hex hole.

They really are invaluable.
 
+1...invaluable but cheap! I paid about $12 for an Auto Zone knock off of 1st Shirt Maxers.....gotta take it apart every couple years for some fresh white grease but it's pulled the bacon outta the fire a good many times!

Impact, torch and a set of socket allens and those bolts don't stand a chance. :punk:
 
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