Man, I'd triple check that its definitely firing on all cylinders at idle, proper synch and all that. Then just let it go.
Theoretically they should all respond but sometimes they just don't.
If them doesn't respond so well just set it like the rest.
If its got no other nasty habits, the mileage is good, and the plugs look good I wouldn't over analyze it.
I'm not saying it can't be corrected eventually, but the "not responding" a/f screws aren't that unusual and you've done your due diligence.
I don't believe the float level would effect the a/f screw not responding issue?
Confession, one I could be crucified for!
I talk about wet checks but have never done one, once I know the seats are in good shape, the floats are all set the same, and the float needles are seating by knowing the bowl is full, the pump quits, and doesn't run again when I wait a bit and turn the key back on, I don't care what the wet check mm is as long as the mileage is good, the plugs look good and its running properly where the float level has an impact.
I have checked the floats to make sure they all float the same in a cup of gasoline before just to make sure I didn't have a bad one.
Another confession. I'm guilty of ONLY mechanically synching the carbs as well. My motion pro sucks as the mercury separates before I can finish the job.
My test once again is that if the idle is as low as I can get it and its running on all cylinders then synch is good enough.
Once its off idle synch becomes less and less critical as the difference in butterflys becomes such a smaller and smaller percentage of the overall opening angle of the butterfly.
All of the above is just my opinion and experience, some of it is unconventional wisdom for sure.