Clutch gone, Need advice

[Tyboy11]

Clutch is shot on my 85 max. I need to order another clutch and I understand I should do the extra spring also. Can someone save me some time and share with me which kit works well in the max and what I need (stock spring only?) to do the DD mod and what pressure plate it works with. I want to probably change the Pressure Plate also while I'm in there. Just not sure about best parts interchangeability.

Thanks,

 

[Itgoes]

You'll be much happier with the PCW HD spring, IMO. Less lever force required and plenty of clamping strength.

Yamaha OEM plates and disks for everything else.

 

[Fire-medic]

Get the PCW 'extra friction disc' kit. You replace the innermost, 'half-width' friction disc w/a standard one, and remove the thin metal band in there which lies inside the 'half-width' friction disc. They will sell you all the friction discs, a case cover gasket, and the heavy-duty diaphragm spring. That is what you need to have a renewed clutch. Rough-up your 'steelies' & check them for thickness and overheating (bluing of the metal, replace any that have that), be sure to pre-lube your friction discs before you install them. Check your brake fluid in the hydraulic clutch, if it's not clear, flush the system entirely, I recommend a 'reverse-flush.' It's the quickest way to get a firm lever. Don't forget to check your clutch slave cylinder for leaking. An outside inspection of where it's mounted isn't as-good as removing it & inspecting it from the back, to see if you have a leaking slave cyl. Be careful to use only a well-fitting allen wrench to loosen the screws, I suggest using a hand impact tool.

 

[Tyboy11]

Thank you guys!unk:

 

[[email protected]]

Check out this link for some info on the vmax clutch. You'll want to follow these directions for replacing the half plate and retaining wire.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Instead of stacking 2 OEM clutch spring discs, remove your OEM spring and install the PCW spring.

As noted, replace friction plates with new, OEM. Check the steel plates for warpage, thickness, and overheating. If they are in spec, bead blast them or, scuff them up by hand to remove any glazing.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Tyboy11]

Check out this link for some info on the vmax clutch. You'll want to follow these directions for replacing the half plate and retaining wire.

http://vmax.lvlhead.com/tips/clutch.htm

Instead of stacking 2 OEM clutch spring discs, remove your OEM spring and install the PCW spring.

As noted, replace friction plates with new, OEM. Check the steel plates for warpage, thickness, and overheating. If they are in spec, bead blast them or, scuff them up by hand to remove any glazing.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Thank you!

 

[Tyboy11]

I had some issues trying to get the PCW parts. I went with a Barnett set of clutch plates and a Barnett (6 spring) pressure plate. I ordered the HD springs for the plate also.

Does anyone have any input on this setup? Do you prefer the HD springs or the ones that come with the pressure plate?

 

[lastwhiteman]

I installed the PCW clutch kit in my '95 and believe that's the easiest and best option out there.
Just my opinion.........

 

[DMAN999]

I had some issues trying to get the PCW parts. I went with a Barnett set of clutch plates and a Barnett (6 spring) pressure plate. I ordered the HD springs for the plate also.

Does anyone have any input on this setup? Do you prefer the HD springs or the ones that come with the pressure plate?

I have the Barnett 6 spring clutch with the standard (Gold) springs and I'm very happy with it.
I would NOT personally want to use the HD (red) springs, I'm sure they would grab too hard and add too much lever pull for me
I do know a few guys said that they used the Medium (Green) springs and they said they liked those.

This is the info I have regarding the Barnett Clutch and Springs.

Barnett Vmax 6 Spring Clutch Conversion:
Barnett Part # 511-90-10002
Vmax Springs Part Numbers from Barnett - May 2010:
501-63-06014 (MT-14-6) = Steel 63 lb at 1-inch
501-75-06005 (MT-5-6) = gold 75 lb at 1-inch (Default spring)
501-82-06023 (MT-23-6) = green 82 lb at 1-inch
501-99-06091 (MT-91-6014) = red 99 lb at 1-inch
Reading the Part Number, they explained:
Tension number are per spring.
The middle two numbers are the spring tension at 1-inch compression.
The last two numbers are used for their 'MT' number.
The 99-pound springs are usually 100-pounds due to manufacturing tolerance.
A few (lesser-tension?) springs are rated at 1.5 or 2-inch compression. Not these.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Curious to know why you need to uprate the clutch.

If it has been working OK and has now started to slip then that would suggest that all you need to do to get back to a non slipping condition would be to replace the friction discs.

In a standard motor additional clamping won't give any benefit.

If the motor has extra GG's then that is a different matter.

 

[Bill Seward]

I agree. My clutch presently has over 65,000 miles on it. It is just barely starting to slip. If I get to replacing it this season, it's gonna be with stock parts. That clutch was subjected to thousands of miles of trailer pulling, with nary a complaint.

 

[sdt354]

It depends how you ride and what you want. +1 to adding an extra fiber disk. The DD is annoying to some because of the lever pull. I'd not recommend two new springs for the street. Find a very used spring for the extra. Or get an aftermarket spring. The DD won't slip. Has anyone used the Venture pressure plate with Barnett springs?

 

[Tyboy11]

Prior to purchasing the Barnett parts, I went to this site and looked for clutch parts. http://www.pcwracing.net/

I just went there again and saw nothing for a Vmax Clutch. Maybe they changed the site, have a different site, or sell it somewhere else.


The clutch had no signs or indications of slipping before this. It did make a little noise. I was out testing different carb jets and was launching it going thru the gears. When I shifted into second it rev'd up, I shifted into second again thinking I missed the gear. When I shifted again it was solidly engaged until I went WOT again and it just rev'd. It did this in each gear when I went WOT. I have not opened it (clutch cover) up yet to see what the damage is yet. I want to have all possible parts on hand when I do the job. I've had a new clutch cable on hand and this is the perfect time to change it and the line behind the cover (my threads at the fitting connection on the outside are corroded and damaged). I'm reviving the slave cylinder while in there also.

My riding style is: Open that ***** up every chance I get. I don't do cruises. I ride it to work and back during the week (65 miles). I go out on the weekends and fart around on it, looking for trouble.:boxing00:



Side note---Looking at there site some more, and they're even running the Barnett clutch disks in one of their hopped up featured bikes.

 

[Fire-medic]

The guys at PCW are better-at building bikes than they are at selling online. If you call them, you'll be able to order the kit with the extra friction disc, the H-D spring, and the gasket.

 

[Tyboy11]

The guys at PCW are better-at building bikes than they are at selling online. If you call them, you'll be able to order the kit with the extra friction disc, the H-D spring, and the gasket.

Lol, I figured that. They have done some nice work on those bikes on their web page.

I'm stuck with my Barnett purchase for now. I'm sure it will foot the bill just fine though.

 

[sdt354]

That doesn't sound like your clutch is the problem. More like the 1985 2nd gear transmission issue. The issue got addressed by Yamaha a year or two later. I hope I'm wrong. It's fixable. As is almost everything. Lots of threads here on this.

 

[Fire-medic]

I know what you mean, the Barnett clutch should fill the bill just fine, while you are the one who is footing the bill!

Lol, I figured that. They have done some nice work on those bikes on their web page.

I'm stuck with my Barnett purchase for now. I'm sure it will foot the bill just fine though.

 

[Fire-medic]

I know that you read, "when I shifted into second, it revved-up," and took that to mean, "the bad dogs of 2nd gear have caught another victim," but he says the same thing happened in each sequential gear. The engine revved-up without the clutch coupling up properly to launch him into VBoost, as we are so-fond of doing. I doubt he's got an entire box of bad shift dogs on the entire gearbox.

I think Sean has mentioned that a differential diagnosis is to get the bike into 5th gear, and to crank-on the throttle, and a bad clutch will make itself apparent by little or no forward drive, while the engine winds-out.

That doesn't sound like your clutch is the problem. More like the 1985 2nd gear transmission issue. The issue got addressed by Yamaha a year or two later. I hope I'm wrong. It's fixable. As is almost everything. Lots of threads here on this.

 

[sdt354]

I know that you read, "when I shifted into second, it revved-up," and took that to mean, "the bad dogs of 2nd gear have caught another victim," but he says the same thing happened in each sequential gear. The engine revved-up without the clutch coupling up properly to launch him into VBoost, as we are so-fond of doing. I doubt he's got an entire box of bad shift dogs on the entire gearbox.

I think Sean has mentioned that a differential diagnosis is to get the bike into 5th gear, and to crank-on the throttle, and a bad clutch will make itself apparent by little or no forward drive, while the engine winds-out.

I stand corrected, missed the other gears part. 85's gets me tunnel visioned. I've got a low mileage one that's getting a new 2nd gear set up before I use it.

 

[Tyboy11]

I stand corrected, missed the other gears part. 85's gets me tunnel visioned. I've got a low mileage one that's getting a new 2nd gear set up before I use it.

I know about people damaging their 2nd gear teeth by not using the clutch or other means, but was not aware of a specific 2nd gear problem with the 85's?