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Maybe one of the more knowledgeable people on here could answer that.

My take - the level sensor is towards the front of the sump.
Under heavy acceleration the oil moves to the rear of the sump and lowers the level around the sensor thus momentarily cause the level light to come on.

Note that the oil pick-up is in a well within the sump so this will always remain full.
Also note that the oil pump displaces a fixed volume of oil for xxx rotations of its impellor. What does change is how quickly it moves the oil as the revs increase.
 
My take - the level sensor is towards the front of the sump.
Under heavy acceleration the oil moves to the rear of the sump and lowers the level around the sensor thus momentarily cause the level light to come on.

Note that the oil pick-up is in a well within the sump so this will always remain full.
Also note that the oil pump displaces a fixed volume of oil for xxx rotations of its impellor. What does change is how quickly it moves the oil as the revs increase.
That makes allot of sense. I can rest my mind a bit now knowing that there is reasoning behind the oil light flicker at full blast off.
Thanks allot, great stuff.
 
My take - the level sensor is towards the front of the sump.
Under heavy acceleration the oil moves to the rear of the sump and lowers the level around the sensor thus momentarily cause the level light to come on.

Note that the oil pick-up is in a well within the sump so this will always remain full.
Also note that the oil pump displaces a fixed volume of oil for xxx rotations of its impellor. What does change is how quickly it moves the oil as the revs increase.
I think Yamaha designed it that way on purpose in a passive effort to keep people from killing themselves by going too fast.
 
I think Yamaha designed it that way on purpose in a passive effort to keep people from killing themselves by going too fast.
Thats an excellent point as I surprise even myself on my lifespan. I’m fundamentally a sports bike guy and drive Trigger just as I would a GSXR, but as you can imagine I get some nasty surprises fairly often. 😊
 
Sorry, I failed my English at school.
Meant to say that I TRY to drive Trigger as I would my GSXR.
My wife will not go out with me on that bike.
 
I had only one issue with my starter it's whole life. It was after I first got it. That first winter it was really, really cold one day and I backed it out of the garage to start it and let it run for a bit as it hadn't run in a few weeks.

So I engage the choke, turn the key, wait for the fuel pump to stop pumping, hit the starter and it turns just a bit and something really odd happened. It sounded like the engine fired and died at the same exact moment and there was a very, very loud "CLANG".

I was terrified. I looked all around the bike half expecting to see a rod sticking out somewhere. It was that loud. But I didn't see a thing. Clinching my teeth I tried one more time and it fired right up and ran like a kitten. It has ever since. That's the only issue I've ever had with my Vmax other than having to rebuild the carbs after it sat for two years.
I’ve been searching for your post this morning as I remembered you saying about a clang on start up. I got that just yesterday. I was standing at the left of Trigger and got an almighty mechanical clang/clunk during firing up with choke fully out. I’m convinced it was the starter (I think down on the left) and got a bit of a fright. The bike had not been started for a couple of weeks and its damn freezing here, but I do have a fading battery installed and this would not have helped, in-fact if I was to take a guess then I would say that is my problem, having little cranking energy to the starter. So started Trigger up again this morning with my crap battery still installed and the starter made another light mechanical clunk, but engaged okay. My battery would have been slightly higher charged today as it was only yesterday it got fully charged from the alternator. So I really do think that as your battery goes down in charge you are in danger of maybe seizing/damaging the starter in some way. I don't know much about the starter on G1’s so just getting a bit of information across that may help someone somewhere mate.
 
Overtime a week battery will cause your starter clutch bolts to come loose causing the bag of rocks sound when you hit the Starter button. The weak battery allows the starter clutch to snap backwards loosening the bolts over time. A good charging system and a strong battery are essential to your starter clutch’s life. If you only heard one clunk it’s likely you’re weak battery didn’t have enough juice to turn your motor over properly and clunked when it stopped. This is exactly what causes the starter clutch bolts to come loose.
 
Overtime a week battery will cause your starter clutch bolts to come loose causing the bag of rocks sound when you hit the Starter button. The weak battery allows the starter clutch to snap backwards loosening the bolts over time. A good charging system and a strong battery are essential to your starter clutch’s life. If you only heard one clunk it’s likely you’re weak battery didn’t have enough juice to turn your motor over properly and clunked when it stopped. This is exactly what causes the starter clutch bolts to come loose.
Bought a new Odyssey battery and the clunk has completely gone. Thanks.
 
Political discussions have never gone well on this forum. I'll continue with Rotella 15w-40 for now. Good stuff.
Yeah, I put that into my 2002 and it did make neutral easier to find but gear selection seems stiffer than with good old Castrol GTX 20w-50!
 
BIG PHARMA IS NOT YOUR FRIEND.... They are here to make money off the scared sheep!!! Getting a untested vaccine for virus with a 99.8% survival rate sounds insane.
 
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