Thanks guys for all the help... You guys rock..
On the question of the little plastic indent on each needle assembly.. I took the time to make sure that the little registration protrusion is seated in that little hole next to the needle's opening in the slider.
I had the adjustable needles last year. I tried all positions trying to remedy this problem. Also on each, I tried the 0.30mm shim under each position tried. So if you did the math.. 5 positions trials x 5 shim trials = 25 times I broke into the carbs to try different needle heights.
When you guys adjust your A/F screws, do you hear a big change on each carb?
On my bike, if I close either #1 or #2 cylinder's A/F screw, the engine's rpm changes greatly. Even greater change is noticed on #2 than #1.
I was trying different settings over the weekend and adjusted #2 to get a base reading.
When I closed it, the engine went down to around 500 RPM from 1100 idle then died out. I then put it back to 2 3/4.. It went back up to 1100.
When I closed #1, RPM dropped down to about 800. Put it back to 2 3/4
When I closed #3, I could not hear the RPM change - put it back to 2 3/4
When I closed #4, I barely heard the RPM change.. It may have gone down too 1050 at Idle. Set it to 2 3/4.
I expected #2 to give a big change since its the master cylinder, but I did not expect the 3 and 4 not to show much of anything.